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I was wondering if anyone else has or purchased this book , I am stuck on certain chapters and I would love to seek answers , im a newbie to patternmaking , but I know there are pretty experienced people here :)


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    Aug 28, 2012, 05.24 AMby tailorstack

    by Joseph-Armstrong?

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    Aug 28, 2012, 08.45 PMby Max Hernandez

    Yeah her the (5th Edition one) u have it too?

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    Sep 4, 2012, 10.12 AMby attornywhy

    hey i have this book. but haven’t read it. at least my mom has read it i guess. i will ask her and provide you some information wait.

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    Sep 5, 2012, 12.28 AMby IkkiaRain

    I have this book and used it to learn how to make a pant pattern for myself. I have the third edition by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.What chapters are you having problems with, maybe I can help you.

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    Sep 7, 2012, 02.11 AMby tailorstack

    Yeah I have 3rd edition too. Whats your questions?

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    Sep 11, 2012, 01.49 AMby Max Hernandez

    I’m having trouble with the dresses without waistlines chapter (CH 18) , her methods of making a torso foundation don’t haven’t worked for me, i know there are various methods of making this foundation, it’s just that the way she is instructing it in the book hasn’t exactly worked for me. She points out that that the measurements needed for this foundation are the front hip depth and the hip arc measurement + 1/2" ease, marking 1/4" on the waistline. She then tells you to place the front bodice pattern on the center front line along with the drafted measurements of the hip, she asks you to slash to slash through the mid armhole and then pivot the bodice and not touch the given mark, HOWEVER it doesn’t seem possible for it to work since the side of the bodice far exceeds the 1/4" mark.. Am i doing something i don’t know? Also i was looking briefly at jack hanford’s professional patternmaking book and he instructs you differently.. i need help.

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    Sep 11, 2012, 04.22 AMby IkkiaRain

    Your book should have provided you with pattern pieces you can play with near the end of chapter 36 and they come in two sizes 1/2 and 1/4 picture size. This is how I learned to make patterns in Patternmaking for Fashion Design. You seem to have a problem with the front (hope I am right).

    According to the book, she wants you to use the hip depth and the front hip arc for the front piece. On the torso draft and measurements needed number# (23) Hip Arc: F_____, B______. You are going to use just the front hip arc + 1/2 inch for ease, stay with me. Don’t worry about the waistline.

    Before you place the front bodice pattern on the center front line, she tells you to use the front one dart pattern and put a x on the bottom side waist. On the front one dart pattern, above the bust dart is the bust point which is a dot, you are going to make a line even with the bust point to the front center and side seam. If you look at the picture, you will see where the arrow points to the bust point. Also at the tip of the dart, she makes a line from the dart tip to the bust point line. You are going to cut from the side seam to the bust point only but not through the bust point then you are going to cut from the dart slash line to the bust point. Mark the bust point real dark so you can see it. ( Remember you are not cutting through the bust point). You will be cutting under the armhole.

    After you do the front lower toro, you will notice that on the waist level line C to D there she shows you to measure in 3/4 inch from C and make a dot. She then places the front bodice pattern on the center front line and the waist level line. You then move the side seam over till the bottom where the X is at touches the waist level line according to the book. In the book, the picture shows the X area of the front bodice not pasting the dot. I believe you can finish the toro foundation on your own. I hope I helped you understand how to do the front toro foundation.

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      Sep 11, 2012, 09.49 AMby Max Hernandez

      Ok , i will try it once more, i never actually thought of using the half size patterns in the back for this problem though, i’ve done all of what you mentioned above , but the only thing is that i have slashed not from the actua BP , but from the DART POINT instead, perhaps that’s where i went wrong. Another problem i encounter, since im working with a dress form, is that the HBL lines do not usually match and the waist is thrown off when i test fit in muslin, is that supposed to happen? .The twill tape that marks the waistline on my form doesn’t match the marks of the waist in my muslin, but maybe its because of the way i was doing it before. Thank you so much! I’ve been trying to do this draft for the longest now :)

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    Sep 11, 2012, 10.41 AMby avababy

    Can anybody please point me in a direction of a funky pinafore dress pattern, please. I have been searching on the internet and cannot seem to find anything.Would really appreciate any hint C

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      Sep 11, 2012, 02.57 PMby IkkiaRain

      C. go online and write free instructions for making a pinafore pattern and see what you get.

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    Sep 11, 2012, 11.01 PMby IkkiaRain

    Max, the introduction for the toro foundation explains that the control for balance of the garment is in the darts and hip level. Read the introduction again and you will see that it has nothing to do with the waistline. Happy patternmaking. Ikkia Rain

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