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I almost finished sewing a simple cut slinky knit skirt. The side seams were fine with an four thread overlock with differential feed at 2. I tried to stay stitch the upper edge and then sewed with a double needle to create the elastic casing. I had to sew it three times because sometimes I was not catching in both layers of fabric.

The problem is the hem. I tried using a roller hem on the serger but it was terrible. I think that this knit is too heavy for it. I ripped out. I think that the double needle is not going to look good because it is coming out too wavy on my sample.

What technique is good for hemming slinky knit? Or can I just leave the edge raw?


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  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 9, 2012, 04.34 PMby patti-r

    Hoping these tips may help other members.

    Press the hem, let it set for a while so no moisture is in the hem. Use a double needle for knits (ball point or stretch) if availble for your machine, put Wooly Nylon in the bobbin, loosen the tension.

    Test on scrap to get the right tension and stitch length.

    I had read where some use the very light fusible tape, I tried this it “was not a great look” it made hem kind of wavy and stiff.

    If you have an Overlocker with Cover stitch, I love using that method on knit hems.

    Hoping others have more input.

  • Missing

    Feb 9, 2012, 05.08 PMby sadafmurad

    i would be interested in learning how to hem silky fabric? I just can’t make it work. I have been using bias binding to finish all the edges but I would rather not… Any input Patti?

    1 Reply
  • Missing

    Feb 9, 2012, 07.59 PMby sadafmurad

    thank you patti!

  • Img_0258_large

    Feb 10, 2012, 09.00 AMby buddingnaturalist

    Hi Sada, here’s two things that work for me: 1)Use loose tension on your sewing machine with the widest stitch length and sew all around the hem at the distance you want the hem fold to be. Fold the fabric in the pin on the outside. Then use either an ‘L-shaped’ stretch stitch or straight stitch (3-3.5 cm) and slowly sew the hem by lifting the presser foot lightly if need be. Keep the tension at a notch or two below what you use for normal sewing. 2) After sewing a long stitch around the hem iron on adhesive hem tape to the hem edge. Turn in and iron. This will cause the hem to stick and stay in place. Then hem with a stretch/ straight stitch.

  • Missing

    Feb 10, 2012, 03.15 PMby mickeygirl

    I am not understanding so well. Do you mean use a blind hem stretch stitch?

    thank you everyone for suggestions. I am going to try blind hem. If that does not work I am going to hem by hand. I’ll report back the results.

    1 Reply
    • Patti_12-28-2011_large

      Feb 10, 2012, 03.55 PMby patti-r

      If you use a blind hem attachment you loosen the tension for knits, make sure you test first and use a Ball Point or Stretch Needle for knits to get the right stitch.
      Becareful not to snag the fabric.

      The double needle stitch used many on Slinky Knit hems (as I explained above). You have to loosen tension and lengthen stitch.

      Was not sure what you type of hem you needed.

      Let us know what works for you..
      Hoping others have more suggestions. Patti

  • Missing

    Feb 11, 2012, 02.06 PMby mickeygirl

    Thanks. The hem is completed.

    So just a brief description of what I did for other’s future reference.

    I tested on a scrap first. I used a blind hem stretch stitch – that is three zigzag and the 4th stitch is a zigzag that moves over to the left a bit more. You fold up the hem (I used 1") to the wrong side and pin as usual for a hem. You could press the hem very carefully but it would be a permanent crease in this type of fabric. Then turn over to the wrong side of the garment. Repin the hem with the raw edge sticking out to the right side about 1/4" and with a little fold to the left for the rest of the hem. The three small zigzags are going to be on the 1/4" right raw side of the road. The larger zigzag should just take a little bit over the center road line to the left. When you fold back the hem to its proper place there should be only small stitches on the right side if barely visible. (difficult to just get a bit and I had to sew slow enough and stretch the fabric, stop often to readjust the road)

    The hem is very stretchy and looks good. I did not press it yet. I will do that very very carefully with a press cloth and lower heat as I do not want to melt the fabric or make a line at the top of the hem.

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