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Am confused about separating the righ front pattern. If I cut on the seam line am I suppose to add seam allowances to the two separated pieces?


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  • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

    Feb 8, 2014, 05.02 AMby rita61

    If cutting on the seam line, to make a separate right front, and a separate right front facing, I would add the seam allowances. The second step in the instructions directs you to stitch these two pieces together, leaving the buttonhole open, etc etc. Then read the second last construction instructions; it may help to see it clearer. Looking forward to seeing your jacket.

    2 Replies
    • Missing

      Feb 12, 2014, 12.00 AMby Maychang

      Thank you so much Rita61. I took your advice at it was excellent! Now another question…should I add seam allowances to the pocket and lining draft I am asked to make? Dimensions are given because they were not part of the attern download . Also do you find the patterns to be extra large? I used bust dimensions for my daughter and it seems to be way off.

    • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

      Feb 12, 2014, 01.33 AMby rita61

      Your welcome. :-) Some Burda patterns appear large because of the design. To the best of my knowledge, Burda patterns are designed with a B cup. I also have noticed that ‘young’ figured ladies have found the patterns to fit large.

      The jacket you have picked, is described as ‘an A-line box jacket’. There are only bust darts; therefore the jacket will not be fitted, and probably fit very loose.

      The magazine instructions are ‘cut lining pieces with a 1.5 cm (5/8 in) wide seam allowances’. That having been said, the instructions tell you to ‘bind lower lining edge of front and back’. So I would not add seam allowance to the lower lining of the front and back.

      For the pockets, I suggest measuring the pocket placement line, and compare it to the pocket measurements they provide, to determine if seam allowances are included in those measurements or not. (Sorry, I haven’t time right now to check it)

      The pockets, I’m going to try my best to explain more.
      Basically you are completely lining the pocket, and then top stitching the finished pocket to the jacket front. The lining piece is cut smaller than the fashion fabric, because the fashion fabric forms a facing on the inside of the pocket. The facing is 4 cm in depth; so double that, 8 cm difference in size. So, take the lining piece and sew it right sides together with the top of the fashion fabric, leaving a 5 cm open in the centre of the seam. (you will hand stitch this closed later). Fold down the top fashion fabric 4cm, right sides together, and the lining should match up with the remaining fashion fabric. Stitch as instructed, etc etc. So basically, the 4 cm top of the pocket, is fashion fabric faced/lined with fashion fabric, and the remaining 14.5 cm of the fashion fabric is lined with lining.

      I hope someone else reads this and can clarify it more. I know there are some tutorials on making self lined pockets; try searching the internet. All I could find on here was: http://www.burdastyle.com/terms/lined-patched-pockets
      I hope that helps?

  • Missing

    Feb 12, 2014, 07.06 AMby Maychang

    Whoops I goofed Rita! I accidentally hit the inappropriate button and I don’t know how to remove it . I am so sorry because you have been so kind and great with your knowledge and information. Please forgive me!

    1 Reply
    • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

      Feb 12, 2014, 08.33 AMby rita61

      That’s okay; many of us have made the same mistake. Please ask if it didn’t make sense. I think I’m going to start taking photos of any unclear procedures as I make garments, and posting them with the project. Other people have suggested it, and I think it’s a good idea.

      I am looking forward to seeing your finished jacket. :-)
  • Missing

    Feb 12, 2014, 10.36 PMby Maychang

    Here we go again Rita… I am having trouble with shaping the center back facing for size 44. I am assuming that the short line is a notch. How do I add a half inch seam to this and is the tip or point include a seam allowance? Does the notch line up with the seams on the other pieces?

  • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

    Feb 13, 2014, 02.10 AMby rita61

    Hi Maychang. Now you’ve puzzled me. On the back facing, I don’t see a short line. On the collar stand I see a short line, which would be a notch. The center of the collar should match up with the center of the collar stand, and the center of the back facing, as all three pieces were cut on the fold. They should therefore, match up with the center of the back. I haven’t made this yet, so I am just giving the best opinion I can at this time. I just looked at the pieces, and it does have a sharp point; it appears to me that the collar stand is like a wedge being attached to only part of the collar. So you would have to very carefully and accurately add the seam allowance. Sorry I can’t be more helpful on this question. I’ll take pictures when I make it. After reviewing the pieces, I have to ask, just because this is causing a problem, and because you said the jacket was so big, did you cut the back piece, #2, on the line for #132? It is a different line than for #133, but I am not sure how the download compares to the magazine. Just a thought. Sounds like you are almost done? :-)

    2 Replies
    • Missing

      Feb 13, 2014, 02.59 AMby Maychang

      Hi Rita… It’s that darn point on the stand. I guess the small line choices for the different sizes would probably be a circle in other pattern company patterns. God knows I hate sewing wedges! I can’t believe the amount of time I have already spent trying to decipher the pattern instructions. Pictures would be so helpful. I have never bought a Burda magazine. Are the instructions different in the magazine? Also… Where do u usually buy the magazine? Have tried two Joanne’s and they are out of them. I am still working on the muslin just to figure out Burda instructions but I know I am going to have to drop several sizes for my daughter. I should have used a bust measurement under the armpit instead of across the bust. Would have been closer in size.

    • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

      Feb 13, 2014, 06.21 AMby rita61

      OH, I can hear your frustration. Many people would agree with you. I’ve use to get the magazines sent to me from Holland from my Aunts, so I got use to no instructions at an early age. But the designs seemed more ‘logical’ in those days. I now get my magazine through subscription, as it is very hard to find where I live as well. The US link is:
      I don’t know if the instructions are different, as I’ve never purchased and downloaded a pattern from this site. Please remember that the instructions have been translated, and sometimes there are things lost in the translation. We get one, maybe two, designs that have more detailed instructions in the magazine, but other than that, the instructions are also without pictures, and some instructions may need to be read more than once, as occasionally there is something missing. I do know that they have made a new US version of the magazine, the first came out a couple of months ago and was labelled ‘Winter 2014’. I see the ‘Summer 2014’ is available. The US versions include patterns from other Burda issues, so if you do not have any Burda magazines, you may want to look into it. Apparently the instructions are rewritten and clarified. http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/burdastyle-us-magazine-is-here

      Don’t give up; you’ll get it eventually. :-)
      I like the fit of Burda patterns. And all the ideas that other sewers post are so interesting.

  • Missing

    Feb 24, 2014, 12.54 AMby Maychang

    Hello Rita61! Got another question. I just put in the sleeves and am really surprised at how large the upper arm and armhole is … The rest if the proportions are terrific and the bust is spot on. I am using the 40 or size 14. It almost seems like a mistake. Have u had trouble with sleeve sizing? Also there was no ease stitching involved…. Fit armhole without any gathering. It had an upper and lower sleeve. Your thoughts? Am I missing something? Should I just cut down the armholes and sleeve patterns and blend with the rest???? Thank you!

  • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

    Feb 25, 2014, 05.13 AMby rita61

    Hi. I will look at it. If anyone else can answer, please do so. Thanks

  • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

    Feb 26, 2014, 10.39 PMby rita61

    Hi Maychang. Sorry for taking so long to get back to you, but your question stumped me, and I’ve been playing with snow. :-) As I mentioned, I have not made this jacket yet, so not sure on the sleeve sizing. Please remember the jacket describes this as a boxy jacket, so I would think from the picture in the magazine that the sleeves will be loose and roomy. I can’t really give you any suggestions on the sleeves, sorry. I have made jackets though where there is no gathering or ease stitching involved. Hope you can figure this out, or maybe Kate can help. Don’t forget to post your new jacket when done. :-)

  • Missing

    Feb 27, 2014, 03.12 AMby Maychang

    Hi Rita. Yeah… There doesn’t seem to be any ease stitching and in fitting my daughter I am definitely going to take it down in the sleeves and upper armhole/chest area. Too roomy. But it will get worked out. I’m just getting my “sea legs” with Burda patterns. Never worked with them before. Next project will attempt a faux fur coat for myself. Thank you for all of your help and concern, Rita61!!!!

  • Missing

    Feb 27, 2014, 03.13 AMby Maychang

    P.S. who is Kate?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Feb 27, 2014, 05.38 PMby katexxxxxx

    Waves! That’d be me…

    Right! I USUALLY fit sleeve heads into arscyes without any ease stitching. Occasionally the fabric will merit it if there is no give in it (I’m thinking a coated cotton, or a silk dupion, for example).

    It sounds like the pattern suffers from the same problem that many modern commercial patterns suffer from: way too much ease in the sleeve head. Unless you are making a gents suit or sports jacket in heavy wool, the MAXIMUM ease in a sleeve head should be 2cm/1". First thing is to measure, ON THE PATTERN, the armscye along the seam line. If this is not marked on the pattern, do this first for the back and front shoulder seams, side seams, and armscye seam line… Also do it for the sleeve pieces.

    Your complete sleeve head seam should measure no more than 2.5cm or 1" larger than the seam round the armscye that it is to fit into. If it does, you need to reduce the height of the sleeve head until it does. If the sleeve is baggy on your arm, you can take some width out of the sleeve as well, but most of it will come off the sleeve head.

    The easiest way to do this is to trace off the sleeve [pieces and tape them together so the upper arm bits are matched along the seam line and then slit the tube at the underarm so it lies flat. You’ll end up with something approximating a one piece sleeve pattern… Then tape your body pieces together, matching the shoulder seam line you have drawn in…

    Take a ‘bendy’ curve ruler, like this: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Flexible-Curve-Ruler-300mm-/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/LW0AAOxyLm9TB340/$_35.JPG

    Bend it round the seam line of the armscye and mark off the length, from side seam to side seam. Take this back to your sleeve pattern. Match the two ends of the bendy ruler to the underarm points on the sleeve pattern, add about 3/4", and smooth the curve to echo (but not match!) the curve of the sleeve head. When it makes a smooth and pleasing curve, draw in that line. This is your new seamline round the sleeve head. Draw in the new seam allowance round the sleeve head.

    Now tape up the slit in the under sleeve and separate the two parts to restore the pattern to the original two sections, but with the altered sleeve head. Toile the new sleeve to make sure it works for you. Remember when fitting that you need to add in the sleeve head padding of Domette, and your shoulder pad to ensure a proper line for fitting.

    2 Replies
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Feb 27, 2014, 05.41 PMby katexxxxxx

      PS: If this makes the sleeve a little short, you’ll need to add some length back in half way between shoulder point and elbow, and possibly between elbow ans wrist as well.

    • Missing

      Feb 28, 2014, 09.14 PMby Maychang

      Omg… Kate. You have been incredibly generous with help and info. But guess what? Your last couple of sentences answers it all. I am an idiot. I had no idea that I was supposed to put in a sleeve head and pad because neither of them were mentioned in the notions or instructions. Does Burda just assume we do this??? This is my first Burda pattern and I am learning the quirks. I feel do stupid for not realizing I should put them in especially since the rest of the pattern fits do well . You have solved the problem for me! I guess I should consider the one I’m working on as a muslin and start over. Thank you and Rita61 again.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Mar 2, 2014, 02.35 PMby katexxxxxx

    Burda is aimed primarily at the home dressmaker. This is all very well, but if you want to up the ante, you have to go beyond the pattern and its instructions. These days I rarely do more than glance through commercial pattern instructions to see whether there’s a particular process that needs to be done before some other bit (like reminding me to do the welts on my jacket before sewing the facing in, and later cutting holes in the facing… ) I so often draft my own patterns that I tend to forget just how lacking some pattern instructions are, and just what you need to get that professional finish that goes above and beyond the ‘home dressmaker’ look. I kinda add those bits in automatically! When you make tailored garments for gents, the instructions are in your head or in text books, not with the pattern you drafted yourself! I do sometimes make a note on a pattern piece if there’s a particular thing I need to do with it, but that’s as far as instructions go…

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