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Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with my bodice back . When I put in the zipper, there is a gap at the top. It sits out about four centimeters.It seems to big to just move the zipper. It wouldn’t be straight. Do I need to pin the bulk like a dart? Then cut out another back (using the original one as a pattern). I’d have to redraw the neck line too? Would this work? Feeling a bit nervous. I would appreciate any comments .


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  • Dsc08840_large

    Dec 27, 2013, 04.55 PMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

    It may be a shoulder problem. I had a similar problem before and I think a square shoulder adjustment would have helped. I didn’t do that. I just took out the fullness by moving the zip and now the dress is tight when I reach far forwards.

    The best thing to do is probably to make a toile with very wide seam allowances on the pattern, or to measure your shoulder pitch for the front and back. I.e. measure from the CF waist, over the bust point, and to the shoulder point for the front shoulder pitch. It’s best to mark the shoulder point with a washable pen because you have to have it in the same place for the back. Measure from the CB waist to the shoulder point.

    Now check those measurements on your pattern. For the front, start at the CF waist, go to the bust point, then pivot and measure to the shoulder point. This full distance should match your front shoulder pitch. For the back, measure from the CB waist to the shoulder point. This should match your back shoulder pitch.

    If they don’t you draw an arch for each measurement (as if with a giant pair of compasses), from the bust point for the front, and from the CB waist for the back. From the side neck point on both the front and back patterns you draw an arch with the diameter of the shoulder length (plus any dart on the back shoulder). (This is called “sweeping” by the way.) Where the arches intersect is your shoulder pitch point. You can draw in the shoulder and armscye seams now.

    This page of my blog might help because I added illustrations. http://thesewingcorner.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/redrafting-my-sloper-or-updating-aldrich.html

    1 Reply
    • Frog2_large

      Dec 29, 2013, 01.53 AMby Melissa Wright

      Thank you I’ll give it a try

    • This is a question
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