Learn How SIMPLE
Digital Patterns Really Are!

Sign Up to Receive
The Ultimate Guide to Digital Sewing Patterns eBook + a FREE Skirt Pattern!

Hi All,
I have noticed that there are a lot of very talented ladies out there sewing some beautiful corsets and also a lot of people interested in sewing them. So, I wondered if anyone would be interested in a corset sewalong, with/without drafting patterns????

Looking forward to hearing what you think :)

Kelly xx


86 Posts Sign in to add a post

  • Image115_large

    Nov 15, 2009, 09.23 PMby thaliya

    I would love to take part in a corset sewalong, though i think it’s something that requires alot of time and dedication. It’s also pretty expensive, though seeing as i was planning to make another one eventually why not.

    2 Replies
    • Missing

      Jan 3, 2012, 09.48 AMby ericjohnson

      Allthosepatterns have an extensive expertise of quilting patterns like appliqué quilts, baby quilts, bed quilts, and modern quilts, paper piecing quilts, pieced quilts, wall quilts and various others along with modern clothing patterns for aprons, babies, boys and girls.
      Downloadable Sewing Patterns

    • Missing

      Sep 26, 2014, 02.20 PMby Crystal Gem

      So would i. Im learning on Foundations Revealed.

  • Missing

    Nov 16, 2009, 01.06 PMby badkitty-1

    Great stuff! :)

    I have started two in the last week and hope to get them done soon. One is a winter white satin coutil mid-bust based on Past Patterns#106 but with a lot of modifications. This is the first time that I have tried this pattern and it goes together really well. The other is black satin lined in hand, tea-dyed herringbone coutil and is by me. It is quite a tight lacing corset and will have a lot of organza trim covered in “Black Diamond”and “Jet” Swarovski crystals. I also have quite a few UFO’s lurking so hope to be inspired enough to get them done as soon as I have finished the other two.

    I am really looking forward to seeing your work. x

  • Photoge01_large

    Nov 28, 2009, 07.35 PMby gedwoods

    I should think a corset sew along would need a hefty chunk of “tutorial” – I have bought materials to make a corset and several books, but have yet to find the time and the energy to tackle what looks like a somewhat daunting project. While I would love to try a sew along on this, I really feel I need coaching more :)

    2 Replies
    • Image115_large

      Nov 28, 2009, 09.40 PMby thaliya

      I used this to make my first ever corset the instruction are really helpful for self drafting though i do think that you should most definately do a toile, it helps to iron all the little things that you cant see on the paper pattern.

      This is another thing i found to help with drafting.

      Though a place that you can get the most amazing advice from is.


    • Missing

      Nov 29, 2009, 10.50 PMby badkitty-1

      If I have some time next week I will photograph a corset coming together as I have a friend that wants one made. They are pretty easy to sew together from some of the commercial patterns. I can recommend the Laughing Moon one to start off with. This is such a well drafted pattern and it goes together like a dream. The best way to do it is to make sure that you have what is the top and bottom marked out really well. Don’t know how many times I have sewn a bit on upside down :) I always make a toile to start off with too. They are a bit of a pain but it really helps with finessing the fit before you cut out the material.

      Out of curiousity, which book did you buy? x

      Edited to add: OOOps, sorry I posted this in the wrong place LOL

      Thaliya. Thanks for the links. They look great x

  • Image115_large

    Nov 28, 2009, 09.42 PMby thaliya

    I think i’m going to start of with a simple black leather underbust, then i’ll see about doing another overbust (my first wasn’t amazing, but it was ok).

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Nov 29, 2009, 11.01 PMby badkitty-1

      Oh, I would love to work with leather but I think that my machine would die on me. Really looking forward to seeing it. I love underbust corsets. x

  • 10th_aug_on_holiday_large

    Nov 29, 2009, 12.19 PMby katensew

    This is something that I have never done. I recall in the 70’s trying to make myself some bras ( as i was so small !! ) but not very successful as I couldn’t obtain the moulded cup pieces – or even the correct elastic. elastane etc. Yet I enjoy making other lingerie - yes I’d give it a go. Though don’t know if I’d wear it- rather conservative ?? By the way what is the difference between a basque and a bustier ??

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Nov 29, 2009, 10.43 PMby badkitty-1

      Basque " a close fitting women’s bodice" and Bustier is “a formfitting sleeveless and usually strapless woman’s top, worn as lingerie and often as evening attire” apparently. I think that maybe the difference is in the straps ??
      Not one that I have thought about until now :) I do have a basque pattern and it has straps on it. xx

  • Photoge01_large

    Nov 30, 2009, 02.09 AMby gedwoods

    I have detailed descriptions of both a basque (“http://fabricsinternational.wetpaint.com/page/Basque”) and a bustier (“http://fabricsinternational.wetpaint.com/page/Bustier”) on my fabric and garment wiki, along with some example creations and patterns for both (the wiki is fairly complete for A-B, so that’s why!). According to my sources, the basque is somewhat longer than the bustier and also has a somewhat different history.

  • Photoge01_large

    Nov 30, 2009, 02.20 AMby gedwoods

    Regarding books, I bought

    - “Corsets : Historical Patterns and Techniques” by Jill Salen, - “The Basics of Corset Building : A Handbook for Beginners” by Linda Sparks, and - “Corsets and Crinolines” by Norah Waugh.

    I recognize that only the Sparks book is truly a guide for beginners, but I have an inordinate fascination with historical fashions as well and wanted to get the lowdown on vintage patterns. I also bought an absolutely fabulous (but expensive) book on the history of the corset called

    “The Corset, A Cultural History” by Valerie Steele.

    This is not a how-to, but a study of the life and times of corsets across several hundreds of years. Wonderful reading!

    2 Replies
    • Missing

      Nov 30, 2009, 07.10 PMby badkitty-1

      I have them all too except for Linda Spark’s book and the Jill Salen one (I bought “Metric Pattern Cutting” by Winifred Aldritch instead) LOL. I love the patterns in the Waugh book and based one of my corsets on one in there. I have another corset based on one of the corded corsets shown that I drafted up but it is sitting in bits in my UFO’s pile.

    • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

      May 7, 2010, 08.16 AMby thecuriouskiwi

      I just got the book “The Basics of Corset Building : A Handbook for Beginners”, and I am going to buy the Simplicity pattern is discusses when they are next on special. Sandra showed us two of her fabulous corsets at our last sewing meet and it piqued my interest. They were so beautiful. I don’t expect my first go to be any way near as pretty and I expect it to take me a while and be quite frustrating but I am looking forward to the challenge and not rushing may way through it :)

  • Photoge01_large

    Nov 30, 2009, 10.53 PMby gedwoods

    I have Aldritch’s book too (actually, different versions for Women’s Wear, Men’s Wear and Coats) – I find the former two to be indispensible for making clothes in general, and bought the one for coats because, along with corsets, that’s one of my next projects! I enjoy the Waugh book at least as much for its discussion of crinolines (not that I’m planning to make one of the those anytime in the near future!).

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Dec 2, 2009, 01.17 PMby badkitty-1

      LOL I HAVE actually thought about doing a crinoline as I was going to have a bash at one of the dress patterns on the Truly Victorian website. Their patterns look great. I don’t normally use one for much but I was a bit daunted by all that fabric and thought for my first time I would let someone have ironed out all the hassles first :)
      Can’t see me wearing it in the supermarket thought LOL

  • Photoge01_large

    May 5, 2010, 07.46 PMby gedwoods

    Well, I’ve started in on my first corset! I bought the Laughing Moon pattern – I decided to let an “expert hand” guide me in my first corset, rather than invent the pattern on my own – about the only time I’ve done so. I have found a woman friend who is interested enough to support my efforts to act as a model for me. I bought Coutil from Laughing Moon, as well. I’ve had a measuring session with my friend-who-is-modeling for me. And I’ve started cutting out the pattern. We’ll see how it goes!

  • Missing

    May 5, 2010, 09.54 PMby badkitty-1

    Oh, is it the Silverado/Dore Pattern? I LOVE that pattern, it is so well drafted and goes together like a dream. I am really looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you. xx

  • Lulusroom_large

    May 6, 2010, 01.05 AMby vintagerouge

    I also love the Silverado, it’s a great basic corset!

    You guys might also check out the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild website—there is a huge pattern review section that reviews many historical patterns: www.gbacg.org

  • Morticia_large

    May 6, 2010, 01.33 AMby ana555

    i wanted to use my victorian patterns. one is a comercial made pattern and the other is a 1899 “hygenic corset”. i bought it from a french seller, so i have to translate everything, but it looks very interesting. i think i will use the comercial pattern first though. hopefully soon?

  • Photoge01_large

    May 6, 2010, 02.26 AMby gedwoods

    I’m using the Dore pattern, actually, not the Silverado… I’m not sure why, quite. My model preferred the Doré pattern, but I had already selected that one. I think the Linda Sparks book suggested the Doré pattern was slightly easier…

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    May 6, 2010, 07.19 AMby katexxxxxx

    I am currently making some 18th C stays using a self-drafted pattern based on Drea Lead’s Elizabethan corset pattern generator. Mine is two layers of tough cotton with a layer of silk on the outside. They are fully boned with whalebone replacement nylon boning. The edges are hand bound with matching satin ribbon. They will be worn with a shift under them, pocket hoops, and a sack backed gown, or a quilted petticoat and caraco, or with a Robe Anglaise polonaise gown.

    I also have two Elizabethan corsets on the go, testing the difference between using proper whalebone replacement boning and cable ties.

    1 Reply
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 6, 2010, 08.36 PMby vintagerouge

      Sounds wonderful, Kate!

      I’m just finishing up a pair of 18th c stays using JP Ryan’s newest pattern. She gave us a bunch of cable tie-like stuff (I’m not sure it ‘s the fake whalebone or not) in her workshop—I really liked it for the round bustline but I used metal boning for a lot of the long channels simply because I had it on hand. I’m binding mine with petersham. Boy, hand binding all of those tabs takes forever! :)


  • Missing

    May 6, 2010, 09.04 PMby badkitty-1

    You guys are so busy. I feel so bad now as I have so many UFO’s lurking in my corset box. Got to get motivated and finish them all. Looking forward to seeing all this incredible work. xx

    1 Reply
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 7, 2010, 02.17 PMby vintagerouge

      Oh, don’t worry, I’ve got UFO’s too! Maybe we should have a Knock Out Those UFO’s Sew Along. ;)


  • Missing

    May 7, 2010, 09.23 PMby badkitty-1

    Hi Vintagerouge, I think that that is a fantastic idea. I would be so up for that. I have tons of stuff lurking. Some of it for so long that I have no chance of even getting into it now :)

    1 Reply
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 8, 2010, 12.05 AMby vintagerouge

      Let’s see, I have a black Silverado with purple trim lurking around somewhere in my stash, a nearly completed 1880’s bustle (also by Laughing Moon), and…Oh we should totally do this!


  • Photoge01_large

    May 8, 2010, 01.26 AMby gedwoods

    I feel somewhat daunted to be in this crowd of old hands at stays and boning and corsets… I have a question which may seem very basic to you all… My model has a 36 inch bust and a 31 inch waist, while the corset pattern for the 36 inch bust goes with a 28 inch waist – I imagine I should simply adjust the waist outward (for example, by combining the waist part of the pattern for the 31 inch waist with the bust part of the pattern for the 36 inch bust… the instructions aren’t quite explicit about this, they just say “after suitable adjustment” – I presume that is what is meant….

    2 Replies
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 8, 2010, 02.08 AMby vintagerouge

      Gedwoods, that is pretty much all you have to do—just gently grade the seamlines out until you match it up to the size you need. Are you making the Silverado, the one without the gores? I’d recommend that one if it’s your first corset.

      And don’t worry about being new at this, we were all new at this once! :)

    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 8, 2010, 06.37 AMby katexxxxxx

      Take a careful look at the instructions. This is a Victorian corset: They usually reduce the waist by 2-4 inches while leaving the bust at full measurement.

  • Photoge01_large

    May 8, 2010, 01.20 PMby gedwoods

    Ah, I wondered where the reduction came in! As much as that!

    1 Reply
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 8, 2010, 03.57 PMby vintagerouge

      Yes, that’s true, but I think you need to go with the actual measurement on this one and then do a mock-up to check the fit. Some people squish more at the waist than others so you can take it in at the waist if more reduction is needed. Here is Laughing Moon’s FAQ on their corset patterns: http://www.lafnmoon.com/corset_faq.html

      Oh, and I meant the Dore for the straight seam, not the Silverado! Doh! Most people out here in Northern California just say “The Laughing Moon” and we know which one they mean. :)

  • Missing

    May 8, 2010, 06.19 PMby badkitty-1

    I agree Vintagerouge. A mock up is always useful, especially as people carry their weight in different ways. I tend to find that if you have a bigger “squish” factor you need to take the waist in more. I have had people easily lace down more than 8 inches without any discomfort at all as they have been more “squishy” than someone who is more toned and this was the size that they found most supportive and comfortable.

  • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

    May 12, 2010, 06.18 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    How about this guys? Even has a pdf pattern to download for free!


    I am looking forward to seeing the next instalment

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 12, 2010, 07.08 AMby katexxxxxx

      Yes, it could be interesting… But looking at her list of fabrics and the finished article, I’m not terribly impressed. with the execution. For that style of corset I would definitely use use coutil for the strength layer (forget all the others!), a busk length based on the finished length of the corset so it fitted properly, and longer bones. Those I’d probably cut from 7mm spiral steel, with 12mm flat steels for the lacing edge at the back.

      yes, you CAN use almost anything for the outer layer, but reall, for something like this I’d use a satin coutil. I suspect that while a lot of the ‘off’ look is due to the corset being displayed on a stand rather than a body, much of the horizontal wrinkling is due to the bones not being snug in their cases and the top satin fabric wrinkling.

      You should never need to pull coutil to ‘block’ it.

      The pattern might work quite nicely done with the proper materials and proper fitting. It will be interesting to see how this progresses…

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    May 12, 2010, 08.47 AMby katexxxxxx

    Having downloaded the Craftzine pattern, I have to say there is a HUGE initial problem with it. There is no map and there are no tags to help you orientate and tile the pattern pages! This is not encouraging…

  • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

    May 12, 2010, 11.10 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    Hrm , not encouraging at all, thank goodness for expert and sharing members like you Kate, your comments are always helpful, perhaps I’ll just stick to my Basics of Corset Building book and my Simplicity pattern it recommends…

    2 Replies
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 13, 2010, 07.39 AMby katexxxxxx

      Further discussion with them as know more than me reveals why the thing looked so familiar: it appears to be an exact copy of a pattern put out by one of the historical pattern companies. I’m awaiting their comment on the situation, and will report back when I know for sure what is going on.

      I used the Basics book when I did Vicky’s corset, and found it very straight forward and honest in the approach. Take care with the Simplicity pattern: I can’t remember of this is the case with the pattern recommended in the book, but several of their corset patterns have EASE added in! Ease in a corset??? Nope. Does not compute: out of boning error, redo from start…

    • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

      May 13, 2010, 07.48 AMby thecuriouskiwi

      I might be a beginner when it comes to corsets but even I know you don’t need ease :) The pattern is 9769 or the other option from the book is the “laughing moon” pattern, maybe this is a better choice?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    May 13, 2010, 08.28 AMby katexxxxxx

    The Laughing Moon one certainly comes with a good rep. You need to pick your style according to your figure type and the effect you want. Looking at it, I think that is one of the better Simplicity patterns, so if you have it, go with that one while paying particular attention to the book. As I haven’t used either, I can’t recommend one over the other. I used the book to make up the Truly Victorian 110, and that worked a treat.

    1 Reply
    • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

      May 14, 2010, 08.58 AMby thecuriouskiwi

      Right, Simplicity it is then, mostly because it’s the easiest of the two for me to get hold of. I have to finish off my current projects (doing a mini capsule wardrobe and everything is already cut out) then I’m going to give it a try :) Thanks for your advice Kate

  • Missing

    May 13, 2010, 12.46 PMby badkitty-1

    I have used both and they are both really staight forward. I would say that the directions are better in the Laughing Moon pattern. Actually I bought the LM DVD on corset building, it was great but I lost it. Don’t know if watching it more than once would be useful though? LOL xx

  • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

    May 13, 2010, 01.30 PMby wzrdreams

    Oh man!!! I just saw this thread and now I’m kinda itching to make another corset. My first one went together quite well considering I had no idea what I was doing. The only problem I had was that I chose a finished size close to my actual measurements….. I didn’t know about the negative ease requirement for actual corset wearing. Good luck to everyone!

  • Photoge01_large

    May 13, 2010, 10.37 PMby gedwoods

    I’ve had my first fitting session with the muslin without boning. The fit was rather good – no problems with symmetry and no problems with height, good fit around the bust – needs a little bit more tightening at the front top. What I did notice, however, was a fair amount of wrinkling at the waist (the folds run horizontally). I’ve been trying to think this out – is this because the waist area is too flat or too pinched? Any help on this would be super – I’m at this point unclear in which direction to make a correction….

    I made the corset tighter at the waist than the hips or bust, but only by a small amount (1 inch maximum). I found the lacing was too narrow at the back overall, so I need to tighten all my seams by a small amount to give more margin for lacing at the back.

    Next step – order in the boning!

    I’m already having great fun, and although I’m only making a muslin, it already looks pretty cool!

    4 Replies
    • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

      May 14, 2010, 08.55 AMby thecuriouskiwi

      They do look cool don’t they? I was only thinking about giving this a try then at our last BSC meet someone pulled out a corset from Sandra’s pile and then we found another and we all got stuck into trying to squeeze into them and looking at how they were made and suddenly I was hooked! It’s nice to play dress up every now and again ;) Once I am through my currently cut items (doing a little capsule wardrobe thing) I am starting mine :)

    • Missing

      May 14, 2010, 12.43 PMby badkitty-1

      Sounds brilliant.
      My muslins do that sometimes, the wrinking at the waist usually goes when you add in the boning for support. Don’t know about folds though, are they big? I think that the wrinkling is just the muslin pulling. Maybe it is a bit too long?? This is easy to adjust when you have all the boning channels in.
      K xx

    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 14, 2010, 07.26 PMby katexxxxxx

      Look at this:


      That wrinkly mess turned into this corset:


      What made the difference was the boning. Make sure that it is a snug fit in the boning channels, bit for length and width.

    • Lulusroom_large

      May 15, 2010, 01.55 AMby vintagerouge

      The wrinkles are usually corrected with the boning although if your model is very hourglass you sometimes get that wrinkle too. I’d put a few bones in and recheck the fit.

  • Morticia_large

    May 14, 2010, 12.47 PMby ana555

    you all have caught my fancy and i’m going to to my hygenic corset! i have the pattern cut out now just finding the fabric? i will post the corset picture in the projects so you guys can see it.

    1 Reply
  • Photoge01_large

    May 14, 2010, 08.48 PMby gedwoods

    Okay, I shall try it with the boning.

    I have some more questions for the experts… I’m a real pest, I know!

    I noticed, KateXXXXXX, in one of your posts you talked about cutting the boning – you do your own cutting? I’ve read mixed messages about this (mostly in the Linda Sparks book, sometimes she seems to say both a thing and its opposite without coming down on either side!). At one point, she says that the tips are best added under high pressure in a shop (but maybe these are the steel bones, not the steel spring bones?), but then she talks about how to add the tips to the boning. She also talks a lot about ordering boning in pre-set lengths, so I’m a little confused about whether to order bones in preset lengths which are already capped or to order by the yard and cut them and apply the tips myself? Is it a question of how many corsets one is expecting to make?

    Also, I am slightly confused over her discussion of single-layer versus double-layer corsets. I get that double layer corsets are two layers of coutil with the boning between them. But a single coutil layer with the seams pressed open inside sounds odd, to me – this is a close-fitting garment…. won’t the seam allowances add a level of discomfort in such an arrangement? Wouldn’t it be better to line the corset? But she doesn’t seem to talk about lining outside of the double layer of coutil? Is lining an issue I should be worried about? Or should I simply make a double-layered coutil corset and not worry about this?

    2 Replies
    • Lulusroom_large

      May 15, 2010, 01.50 AMby vintagerouge

      For the bones, you can buy them in pre-cut, pre-dipped/tipped lengths, I usually try and do that rather than try and cut the bones, shape the bones, tip the bones…Personally I prefer steel over spring steel but if someone really needs comfort or movability they might prefer the spring steel.

      For the construction, since you usually wear something underneath it’s not really uncomfortable to have a single layer corset but I think the double layered ones look a bit nicer and have more body. If you have two layers of coutil you can add a “fashion” fabric to the outside, although as KateXXXXXX mentioned, beware of the very pretty dress satins as they do start to tear at the stress points after a while, they just aren’t that strong.

      Hope this helps~!

    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 15, 2010, 07.19 AMby katexxxxxx

      Cutting boning ranges from VERY EASY with some types of plastic boning to A Considerable Job with things like the heavier gauge spiral and flat steel boning.

      I cut my plastic and flat steels with a pair of tinsnips, round the ends off (Himself does this with a Dremel like modeler’s grinding wheel on the heavier gauge steels), and Himself cuts the spiral steels for me with a metal cutting disk. Then they need to be tipped. You can buy tipping solution for the flat steels, or use Linda Sparks’s method for adding purchased metal tips to spirals. You can also wrap the ends of flat steels in PTFE tape (plumber’s tape). The method you choose will depend on the type of boning and the time you have available. I usually tip the spirals with the purchased tips (each size of spiral has its own set of tips), and wrap my flats.

      The advantages of pre-cut flats and spirals is that they are ready for instant use and because the metal ends are put on the spirals by machine, they almost never come off! They are a right skiddle to get on at times.

      The biggest and over-riding advantage of using the cut-it-yourself stuff for me is the precision: you can make the bones the exact length you want. No compromising the fit and look with bones that are too short.

      Also, per mile, bone bought by the roll and tipping added by you is cheaper!

      But there is no ‘right or wrong’ on this: you make the choice according to the way you want to work it.. If you look like making several using the same size and type of boning and you have the time, go for the DIY method. If you are only likely to make a couple and CBA to cut and tip (takes time), you may want to buy pre-cut jobs. But you won’t be able to buy your bones until well on in the process of fitting, and if you then want to add more bones for extra support, you’ll have to wait until you can get them. I just cut a few more and add them in. Works for me…

      On the single layer corset: this is a perfectly valid method. What you do is trim down the seam allowances and sew you boning channel tapes over them. You can make the corset either way out, with decorative and functional channels on the outside or hidden ones on the inside. It’s up to you and the look you want. Then you can also so a single layer corset with a lining: use a lighter layer of fabric on the inside, made up separately, to line the corset. The strength layer is that single layer of coutil, which houses all the structure. The lining is only attached round the edges with the CF and CB openings and the binding.

      Historically, some lining were made up completely separately and slip-stitched in round the edges. They were removed for washing and replaced when they got worn. This helped to protect the corset from body grease and sweat, as they are far from washable! Remember also that until fairly modern times when washing such things became easier with the introduction of plastic boning, washing a corset was not an easy undertaking. Even tipped, (and before the introduction of modern plastic coated steels), a corsets bones would rust and weaken over time with repeated washing, and things like whalebone, reed, hemp cord, and other corset stiffening should not be washed at all. It took a long time for a corset to dry naturally (no central heating vents or radiators to drape it over!): it might take several days! Also, corsets were rarely worn next to the skin: they were all worn on top of a chemise or shift, as in those pix of Vicky’s corset. Seam allowance discomfort didn’t happen. :)

      ALL the strain should be on your strength layers. You need to allow for turn-of-cloth in any fashion layer you use so that there is no strain on it and it lies flat and smooth. On things like this and boned bodices, I drape the strength layer and the fashion fabric over the sleeve roll and then base the edges together just inside the seamline in the seam allowances.

  • Photoge01_large

    May 15, 2010, 04.43 PMby gedwoods

    This is most helpful, both of you (well, all of you!). Thanks!

  • Missing

    May 15, 2010, 10.31 PMby badkitty-1

    HI, I used to buy pre-cut steels, now I only buy the flat steels precut for ease. Spiral steels I get in by the 25m roll and just tip the ends using special caps. I buy both boning and end caps from http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk. They also stock a great boning channel tape which is tubular so no chance of it slipping out the sides for single layer corsets. I only use the flat steels at the busk and at the back, one on either side of the grommets. All the others I tend to go with the spiral steels as they seem to be more comfortable. Used to use 7mm flat steels for these bones before but I suppose that it is just personal taste. I use all flat bones in stays.

    Digressing, I found this website yesterday: http://www.foundationsrevealed.com. Has anyone signed up for it? It seems pretty good but expensive. They do have a couple of draft your own corset .pdfs. One for beginners (http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/free-articles/74-draft-your-own-corset) and one intermediate (http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/free-articles/68-the-new-corset-drafting-masterclass) I have downloaded the intermediate one and will give it a look over when I have some time, hopefully this week.

    Hope you are all having a good weekend. xx

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      May 15, 2010, 11.18 PMby katexxxxxx

      Cathy is THE BIZ! She’s fantastic, and this is her site. Well worth it.

    • This is a question
  1. Sign in to add a post

Recent Posts