Sewing lesson: #111 Wool culottes 04/2020
Sewing lesson: #111 Wool culottes 04/2020
Follow our step-by-step sewing lesson below to learn how to make yourself your new wardrobe favorite... a pair of culottes! Sew them in lightweight trouser fabrics made of wool or blends with elastane for a breezy pair of bottoms perfect for around the house and being out and about.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvages. Pin the pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Note grain of fabric, it must run parallel to the selvages. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and 4 cm (1 5/8") hem allowances on the fabric. Mirror pieces 5 and 6 at centre front and back. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark piece a directly on the fabric. Cut out the fabric pieces.
STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold the interfacing, adhesive side facing in. Pin pieces 5 and 6 at the fold. Use pencil to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces on these lines. Also cut 2 strips of interfacing for the pocket opening edges, each 3 cm (11/4") wide. Interfacing is ironed on wrong fabric side. Iron strips of interfacing on angled edge of front trouser pieces. Fold yoke pieces right side in again. Lay front trouser pieces right sides together again. Pin on pattern pieces again.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Before removing the pattern pieces, use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer the hem lines, pleat lines on front trouser pieces and the abutting line on the hip yoke to the right side of the fabric.
STEP 4: HIP YOKE POCKETS
Pin pocket pieces right sides together with pocket opening edges of front trouser pieces (seam number 1), matching markings. Stitch pocket pieces together. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"). Turn pocket pieces to inside. Press edge and topstitch 7 mm (1/4") wide.
STEP 5: STITCH POCKET PIECES TOGETHER
Pin front trouser pieces to hip yoke so that pocket opening edge meets with marked abutting line. Baste pocket opening edge. Pin pocket piece on inside to self-facing of pocket on hip yoke. Stitch edges together.
STEP 6: FRONT PLEAT
Work from right side of fabric to lay pleat on front trouser pieces in arrow direction, matching marked lines. Pin pleat at upper edge. Lay pocket piece over pleat. Baste pleat and pocket piece. Also baste pocket piece at side edge of trousers.
STEP 7: INSIDE LEG SEAMS
Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin inside leg seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 8: CENTER SEAM
Lay trouser pieces together with right sides facing. Now first pin inside leg seams, then centre seam. Stitch seam from upper front edge to upper back edge. Trim allowances along curve. Neaten allowances and press open from beginning of curve.
STEP 9: YOKE
WWWWWUse a straight pin to mark centre on lower edge of front and back yoke. Pin interfaced front yoke piece right sides together with front trouser piece (seam number 4), matching straight pin with centre front seam. Stitch yoke. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and press onto yoke. Stitch back yoke to back trouser piece likewise./p>
STEP 10: RIGHT SIDE SEAM
Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin right side seam (seam number 3), matching yoke joining seams. Stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 11: ZIP FASTENER
Attach the special presser foot to your sewing machine. Open zip and pin face down on one edge of opening. Teeth of zip begin on seam line at upper yoke edge. Stitch zip close to teeth from top to slit mark. The teeth of an invisible zip roll inward and are held flat by the special presser foot.
STEP 12: ZIP FASTENER
Pin other zip tape to other edge of opening and stitch likewise from top to slit mark. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 13: LEFT SIDE SEAM
Close zip slightly. Lay front trouser piece on back trouser piece. Stitch side seam from lower edges as far as possible to slit mark, laying ends of zip tape aside. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 14: INSIDE YOKE / RIGHT SIDE SEAM
Lay non-interfaced yoke pieces together with right sides facing. Pin right side seam (opposite of on culottes) (seam number 3) and stitch. Press allowances open.
STEP 15: DOUBLE THE YOKE
Lay inside yoke right sides together with stitched yoke, matching side seams. Pin upper edges together. Fold allowance at side yoke edges over 5 mm (3/16") before edges of opening. Lay allowances at edges with zip tapes out over yoke, pin. Stitch upper edges together. Trim allowances.
STEP 16: TURN YOKE TO INSIDE
Turn yoke, baste edges and press. Lay lower yoke edge over joining seam, baste. Sew side edges on at zip tapes by hand. Work from right side of garment to topstitch yoke 7 mm (1/4") next to upper edge and next to joining seam, catching inside yoke.
STEP 17: HEM
Neaten hem allownance, turn to inside and pin. Press edge. Work from right side of garment to topstitch lower edge 3 cm (1 1/4") wide, catching hem.
STEP 18: TIE BAND
Fold piece for tie band in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch, leaving an opening for turning. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn tie band, press edges. Sew up opening in seam by hand. Mark centre of tie band and centre of back yoke. Stitch on tie band about 1 cm (3/8") below upper yoke edge, matching centres. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
FINISHED! #111 04/2020
Rather than a pair of straps, this look is decorated with a wide tying band that lays casually at the hips with a knotted finish. Inlaid pleats at the waistband set them to the perfect width. Buy the pattern here and sew along!