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Celebrate the sun’s first warm rays in this youthful dress with front placket and ruffled skirt. Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Twisted Bustier Dress pattern that debuted in our Graphic Flowers pattern collection from the March 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this springy dress.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES
Pin pattern pieces to the right side of a single layer of fabric, as shown in cutting layout. The cutting layout is in the sewing supplement. Important: Make sure that right and left pieces, such as sleeves, are cut as mirror images of one another. The straight grain arrow on each pattern piece must lie parallel to the selvage. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") on all seams and edges. Finally, draw pieces a to e directly on the fabric, with tailor’s chalk and ruler. Cut out fabric pieces.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 2, 9, and 10 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. In addition, draw the cuff piece (d). Cut out interfacing pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces. Iron a piece of interfacing (approx. 5 cm/2" long and 2.5 cm/1" wide) to wrong side of bodice front, over end of slit, to prevent the slit from tearing
(see Step 4).

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay interfaced pieces together again, right sides facing or fold again, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to wrong side of fabric. Follow instructions included with carbon paper. Hand baste along fold and placement lines, to make them visible on right side of fabric. Buttonhole positions apply only for size 34 (see also Step 5).


Step 4


Step 4: FRONT PLACKET / STITCH VERTICAL BANDS IN PLACE
Trim allowances on long edges of each front band piece to 1 cm (3/8") wide. Pin bands to attachment lines on bodice front, right sides facing, and stitch in place. Tie-off ends of stitching. Slash bodice front along centre front, between bands, ending 0.7 cm (1/4") above ends of stitching, then clip diagonally to each last stitch (arrows), making sure to not cut bands. Press seam allowances toward bands. Press allowance on opposite long edge of each band to wrong side.


Step 5


Step 5: BUTTONHOLES
Fold each band to inside, along marked fold line, baste inner edge to attachment seam, and edgestitch in place. Topstitch close to fold edges. For sizes 36 to 44, mark upper buttonhole on right band, the same distance from upper edge as marked for size 34. The lowest buttonhole mark applies for all sizes. Mark the third buttonhole exactly half way between the upper and lower buttonholes. Work buttonholes, beginning at each marking and stitching down.


Step 6


Step 6: LOWER BAND ENDS
Lay right front band on left front band. Pin lower edges together, matching centres. At band ends, fold bodice front down. Pin lower band ends to bodice front, right sides facing. Stitch bodice front to band ends, between clips. Tie-off ends of stitching with backstitching. Finish edges of seam allowances together. Unfold bodice front again. Press seam allowances down.


Step 7


Step 7: STITCH YOKES TO BACK
Pin one yoke piece to bodice back piece, right sides facing. Pin the second yoke piece to the bodice back, with the right side of the yoke facing the wrong side of the back. Stitch yokes to back. Press yokes up, over the attachment seams. The yokes now lies together, wrong sides facing.


Step 8


Step 8: STITCH YOKES TO FRONT / BUST DARTS
Pin outer yoke piece to shoulder edges of bodice front piece, right sides facing. Stitch as pinned. Press seam allowances toward yoke. Turn edges of inner yoke piece under and baste these edges to front yoke attachment seams. Working from the outer side, topstitch yoke close to front attachment seams, thereby catching inner yoke edges. Baste along neck and armhole edges. Pin bust darts. Stitch each dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point. Press darts down.


Step 9


Step 9: BUSTIER
On each bustier piece, press allowance on upper long edge to wrong side, turn raw edge under, and stitch in place. Finish edge of allowance on lower long edge. Fold one bustier piece as illustrated, right side facing in, matching slit marks. Stitch seam from edge to slit mark (seam number 6). Tie-off ends of stitching. Press seam open. Pull second bustier piece through slit then stitch seam in same manner. Press seam open.


Step 10


Step 10: BASTE BUSTIER TO BODICE
Baste bustier to armhole edges and side edges of bodice front, to meet marked placement lines.


Step 11


Step 11: SEW COLLAR WITH COLLAR STAND
Pin collar pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch edges together as shown. Trim allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Turn collar right side out. Press edges. Topstitch close to seamed edges. On collar stand piece with no interfacing, press allowance on attachment edge to wrong side. Pin this collar stand to interfaced collar side; pin interfaced collar stand to remaining collar side. Stitch collar stands together, catching collar. Trim seam allowances. Clip curves.


Step 12


Step 12: ATTACH COLLAR
Turn collar stand right side out. Baste seamed edges and press. Pin interfaced collar stand to neck edge of bodice, right sides facing, matching seam marks on collar stand to shoulder marks on yoke. Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press allowances toward collar stand. Baste inner collar stand to attachment seam and edgestitch in place. Work horizontal BUTTONHOLE in right front end of collar stand, beginning at buttonhole mark.


Step 13


Step 13: RIGHT SIDE SEAM
Lay bodice front on bodice back, right sides facing. Pin right side seam. Stitch seam as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.


Step 14


Step 14: SKIRT /RIGHT SIDE SEAMS
On skirt yoke pieces, stitch right side seam. Lay pieces for upper skirt tier, lower skirt tier, and skirt band each together, right sides facing. Stitch each pair of pieces together along one narrow edge, to form one long strip. Press skirt band strip in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Baste open long edges together.


Step 15


Step 15: STITCH SKIRT SECTIONS TOGETHER
Pin skirt band to lower edge of upper skirt tier, right sides facing, matching side seams. Lay lower skirt tier over skirt band and pin edges together. Stitch all edges together. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up.


Step 16


Step 16: GATHER SKIRT TIER / ATTACH YOKE
Gather upper edge of upper skirt tier. To do this, first stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting close to seam line. Pull bobbin threads to match skirt tier edge to lower edge of yoke. Knot gathering threads. Distribute gathering evenly. Pin skirt tier to lower edge of yoke, right sides facing, matching side seams. Stitch as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances toward yoke.


Step 17


Step 17: STITCH SKIRT TO BODICE
Pin upper edge of skirt yoke to lower edge of bodice, right sides facing, matching side seams. Stitch skirt yoke to bodice. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances toward bodice.


Step 18


Step 18: INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Open zipper. Pin one zipper tape face down to outer side of one left side edge of dress, with edge of tape 5 mm (3/16") from edge of fabric. The zipper teeth begin at upper slit mark. Using the special zipper foot, stitch zipper in place, ending at lower slit mark. Stitch the second zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner. Tie-off ends of stitching.


Step 19


Step 19: LEFT SIDE SEAM
Close zipper slightly. Lay bodice front on bodice back and skirt front on skirt back, right sides facing. Pin side seam on skirt, matching ends of horizontal seams. On bodice, pin side seam from armhole edge to zipper. Stitch side seam from armhole edge to upper slit mark and from lower edge to lower slit mark, turning ends of zipper tapes out of the way to do so. Tie-off ends of stitching. Press seam open.


Step 20


Step 20: SLEEVE PLACKETS
Slash lower edge of each sleeve as
marked. Spread cut edges open and stitch to binding strip, as narrowly as possible. Press seam allowances toward binding. Fold inner edge of binding under, pin this edge to attachment seam, and edgestitch in place. Lay slit edges together, right side facing in. At upper end of slit, stitch diagonally across binding, as illustrated. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seam. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances to one side.


Step 21


Step 21: CUFFS
On front edge of each sleeve slit, turn binding to inside and pin in place. Pin cuff to lower edge of sleeve, right sides facing, leaving 1.5 cm (5/8") extending on front slit edge and 3.5 cm (13/8") extending on back slit edge (2 cm/ 3/4" of which are for underlap). Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward cuff. Press allowance on opposite long edge of cuff to wrong side. Fold cuff in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch both ends closed, with 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners.


Step 22


Step 22: CUFFS
Turn cuff right side out. Baste inner edge to attachment seam. Press. Topstitch close to all edges of cuff, thereby catching the inner edge. Work buttonhole in front edge of cuff.


Step 23


Step 23: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. Seam marks 11 on sleeve and bodice front must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder mark on yoke. Working from the sleeve side, baste sleeve to armhole edge, easing the sleeve cap between the •. Stitch sleeve in place. Finish edges of seam allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, turn seam allowances toward sleeve.


Step 24


Step 24: HEM
Finish lower edge of skirt. Turn hem allowances to wrong side, 4 cm (1 5/8") wide, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand, catching only 1 or 2 fabric threads of the skirt; these stitches should not be visible on the outer side of the skirt. Sew buttons to left front band, left end of collar stand, and back edges of cuffs, to match buttonholes.


FINISHED


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Faux Two-Piece Dress.

3 Comments

  • Missing

    Mar 9, 2018, 05.24 AMby EllenLumpkinBrown

    great illustrations! so helpful!

  • Missing

    Mar 9, 2018, 12.00 AMby estellenix

    Tutorial looks great, but the design does nothing for me…. except perhaps to re invent. Put the twist on the inside with elastic across the back for a bra less summer dress?

  • 03003e1f_2_large

    Mar 8, 2018, 05.34 PMby hello Itsme

    cool, the twist is awesome! great tutorial

    • This is a question
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