Masculine creases and a slim silhouette make this style a universal basic. Read on to see the sewing lesson on how to sew these trousers #119 from the 01/2020 issue of Burda Style magazine.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in. Pin on paper pattern pieces as shown in the pattern layout. Place pieces 4 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and 4 cm (15/8") hem allowance. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark pieces a and b directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3, 4 and 5, with piece 4 at the fold. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Interface the outside waistband and outside flap pieces. Lay front waistband pieces and flaps right sides together. Fold back waistband pieces in half. Pin on pattern pieces again.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer the hem lines, "crease" lines, stitching line at zip opening and the flap joining line on right back trouser piece to the right side of the fabric.
STEP 4: FRONT CREASES / BACK DARTS
Fold front trouser pieces each on CREASE line, wrong side facing in. Press creases. Fold back trouser pieces and pin dart lines together, right sides facing. Stitch darts toward points. Knot ends of thread. Press darts toward centre back.
STEP 5: RIGHT BACK TROUSER PIECE / FLAP
Lay flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch together along side and lower edge. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn flap, baste edges and press. Pin open edges together, neaten together. Pin flap on right back trouser piece between markings, with interfaced piece facing down. Stitch flap. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press flap down, topstitch flap 5 mm (3/16") next to upper edge.
STEP 6: SIDE SEAMS / INSIDE LEG SEAMS
Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin side seams (seam number 1). Pin inside leg seams (seam number 2), matching markings (at knees). Stitch seams, slightly stretching inside leg edges of back trouser pieces from upper edge to marking. Neaten seam allowances and press open.
STEP 7: BACK TROUSER PIECES / CREASES
Fold trouser legs each on front crease and lay on your ironing surface so that inside leg seam lies on side seam. Press crease on back trouser pieces, ending about 15 cm (6") before upper edge of trousers.
STEP 8: CENTRE FRONT SEAM
Turn one trouser leg so that right fabric side faces out on one leg and wrong fabric side faces out on other leg. Place trouser legs one inside the other with right fabric sides facing. Stitch centre seam from slit mark to inside leg seams. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten seam allowances and edges of integral facings at opening.
STEP 9: ZIP FASTENER
Baste FACING on right front trouser piece to inside along centre front. Leave facing on left front trouser piece overhanging by 7 mm (1/4") for underlap to conceal zip on finished garment (arrow). Baste remainder of facing to inside. Press. Baste and stitch underlap to zip tape close to teeth of zip.
STEP 10: ZIP FASTENER
Close zip. Pin opening closed matching centres. Work from inside to baste facing at right fastening edge to zip tape, not catching trouser piece.
STEP 11: ZIP FASTENER
Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine to stitch zip tape to facing. Work from outside of garment to topstitch right front trouser piece along marked stitching line, catching facing.
STEP 12: UNDERLAP
Fold underlap piece (a) in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch across bottom ends. Turn underlap and press. Neaten open edgse together. Pin underlap under left opening edge so that neatened edge lies under zip tape. Stitch underlap exactly in stitching line of zip. Work from inside to sew bottom of underlap on at self-facing.
STEP 13: CENTRE BACK SEAM
Place trouser legs one inside the other again with right side facing. Stitch centre back seam. Neaten allowances and press open from upper edges to beginning of curve.
STEP 14: BELT CARRIERS
Press lengthwise edges of fabric strip (b) in toward centre and press strip in half lengthwise with wrong side facing in. Stitch together close to edges. Topstitch close to fold edge. Cut strip into 4 pieces, each 8 cm (3 1/4") long. Neaten ends. Pin belt carriers on upper trousers edge over back darts and over front creases. Baste belt carriers.
STEP 15: SHAPED WAISTBAND
Lay front interfaced waistband pieces right sides together with back interfaced waistband piece. Stitch side seams of waistband (seam number 3). Press allowances open. Stitch side seams of non-interfaced waistband likewise. Pin interfaced waistband right sides together with upper trousers edge, matching centres (seam number 4) and matching side seams. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm 1/4") and press onto waistband.
STEP 16: DOUBLE THE WAISTBAND
Turn allowance at each lower edge of non-interfaced waistband in front to inside. Then pin waistband to stitched waistband with right sides facing and matching side seams. Stitch together at upper edges and front edges, at centre front on the right, at underlap on the lef. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle.
STEP 17: TURN WAISTBAND TO INSIDE
Turn waistband. Press edges. Turn in lower edge of inside waistband and baste so it lies about 2 mm (a scant 1/8") over joining seam. Work from right side to stitch in line of waistband joining seam, catching inside edge. Work buttonhole crosswise on right waistband edge from x marking. Sew button to waistband underlap. Also sew buttons to flaps at x, catching back trouser fabric.
STEP 18: BELT CARRIERS / HEM
Neaten ends of belt carriers, turn in and pin at upper edge of waistband. Stitch belt carriers close to ends. Neaten hem, press to inside and pin. Stitch hem loosely by hand. Repress creases at hem.
The wool trousers with the pressed crease are comfortable and stretch the look of the leg. This is one reason that the timeless cut of this style is one of our all-time favorites.