Sewing lesson: #119 trousers 01/2020

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Sewing lesson: #119 trousers 01/2020
By Meghan January 15, 2020 No comments

Masculine creases and a slim silhouette make this style a universal basic. Read on to see the sewing lesson on how to sew these trousers #119 from the 01/2020 issue of Burda Style magazine.

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES


Burda Style

 

Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in. Pin on paper pattern pieces as shown in the pattern layout. Place pieces 4 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and 4 cm (15/8") hem allowance. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark pieces a and b directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING


Burda Style

 

Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3, 4 and 5, with piece 4 at the fold. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Interface the outside waistband and outside flap pieces. Lay front waistband pieces and flaps right sides together. Fold back waistband pieces in half. Pin on pattern pieces again.

 

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS


Burda Style

 

Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer the hem lines, "crease" lines, stitching line at zip opening and the flap joining line on right back trouser piece to the right side of the fabric.

 

STEP 4: FRONT CREASES / BACK DARTS


Burda Style

 

Fold front trouser pieces each on CREASE line, wrong side facing in. Press creases. Fold back trouser pieces and pin dart lines together, right sides facing. Stitch darts toward points. Knot ends of thread. Press darts toward centre back.

 

STEP 5: RIGHT BACK TROUSER PIECE / FLAP


Burda Style

 

Lay flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch together along side and lower edge. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn flap, baste edges and press. Pin open edges together, neaten together. Pin flap on right back trouser piece between markings, with interfaced piece facing down. Stitch flap. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press flap down, topstitch flap 5 mm (3/16") next to upper edge.

 

STEP 6: SIDE SEAMS / INSIDE LEG SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin side seams (seam number 1). Pin inside leg seams (seam number 2), matching markings (at knees). Stitch seams, slightly stretching inside leg edges of back trouser pieces from upper edge to marking. Neaten seam allowances and press open.

 

STEP 7: BACK TROUSER PIECES / CREASES


Burda Style

 

Fold trouser legs each on front crease and lay on your ironing surface so that inside leg seam lies on side seam. Press crease on back trouser pieces, ending about 15 cm (6") before upper edge of trousers.

 

STEP 8: CENTRE FRONT SEAM


Burda Style

 

Turn one trouser leg so that right fabric side faces out on one leg and wrong fabric side faces out on other leg. Place trouser legs one inside the other with right fabric sides facing. Stitch centre seam from slit mark to inside leg seams. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten seam allowances and edges of integral facings at opening.

 

STEP 9: ZIP FASTENER


Burda Style

 

Baste FACING on right front trouser piece to inside along centre front. Leave facing on left front trouser piece overhanging by 7 mm (1/4") for underlap to conceal zip on finished garment (arrow). Baste remainder of facing to inside. Press. Baste and stitch underlap to zip tape close to teeth of zip.

 

STEP 10: ZIP FASTENER


Burda Style

 

Close zip. Pin opening closed matching centres. Work from inside to baste facing at right fastening edge to zip tape, not catching trouser piece.

 

STEP 11: ZIP FASTENER


Burda Style

 

Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine to stitch zip tape to facing. Work from outside of garment to topstitch right front trouser piece along marked stitching line, catching facing.

 

STEP 12: UNDERLAP


Burda Style

 

Fold underlap piece (a) in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch across bottom ends. Turn underlap and press. Neaten open edgse together. Pin underlap under left opening edge so that neatened edge lies under zip tape. Stitch underlap exactly in stitching line of zip. Work from inside to sew bottom of underlap on at self-facing.

 

STEP 13: CENTRE BACK SEAM


Burda Style

 

Place trouser legs one inside the other again with right side facing. Stitch centre back seam. Neaten allowances and press open from upper edges to beginning of curve.

 

STEP 14: BELT CARRIERS


Burda Style

 

Press lengthwise edges of fabric strip (b) in toward centre and press strip in half lengthwise with wrong side facing in. Stitch together close to edges. Topstitch close to fold edge. Cut strip into 4 pieces, each 8 cm (3 1/4") long. Neaten ends. Pin belt carriers on upper trousers edge over back darts and over front creases. Baste belt carriers.

 

STEP 15: SHAPED WAISTBAND


Burda Style

 

Lay front interfaced waistband pieces right sides together with back interfaced waistband piece. Stitch side seams of waistband (seam number 3). Press allowances open. Stitch side seams of non-interfaced waistband likewise. Pin interfaced waistband right sides together with upper trousers edge, matching centres (seam number 4) and matching side seams. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm 1/4") and press onto waistband.

 

STEP 16: DOUBLE THE WAISTBAND


Burda Style

 

Turn allowance at each lower edge of non-interfaced waistband in front to inside. Then pin waistband to stitched waistband with right sides facing and matching side seams. Stitch together at upper edges and front edges, at centre front on the right, at underlap on the lef. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle.

 

STEP 17: TURN WAISTBAND TO INSIDE


Burda Style

 

Turn waistband. Press edges. Turn in lower edge of inside waistband and baste so it lies about 2 mm (a scant 1/8") over joining seam. Work from right side to stitch in line of waistband joining seam, catching inside edge. Work buttonhole crosswise on right waistband edge from x marking. Sew button to waistband underlap. Also sew buttons to flaps at x, catching back trouser fabric.

 

STEP 18: BELT CARRIERS / HEM


Burda Style

 

Neaten ends of belt carriers, turn in and pin at upper edge of waistband. Stitch belt carriers close to ends. Neaten hem, press to inside and pin. Stitch hem loosely by hand. Repress creases at hem.

 

FINISHED!


Burda Style

 

The wool trousers with the pressed crease are comfortable and stretch the look of the leg. This is one reason that the timeless cut of this style is one of our all-time favorites.

 

Posted in: Magazine