Sewing lesson: #101 jersey top 03/2020

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Sewing lesson: #101 jersey top 03/2020
By Meghan April 1, 2020 No comments

Casually cut, with feminine details: Here's how to sew an easy, new favorite! See the sewing lesson on how to sew this top #101 from the 03/2020 issue of Burda Style magazine.

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES


Burda Style

 

Fold selvedges in to centre, right fabric side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1 and 2 to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and 3 cm (11/4") hem allowances on the fabric. Finally, use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark the piece cut to measure (a) directly on the fabric. Fold remaining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin on pieces 3 to 5. Mirror piece 3 at centre back. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance on the fabric. Cut out all pieces.

 

 

STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS


Burda Style

 

Before removing the fabric pieces from the paper pattern pieces, use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer the slit mark on the back to the right side of the fabric.

 

 

STEP 3: TIPS FOR STRETCH FABRICS


Burda Style

 

To retain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch or at a shallow zigzag setting. If you are working with a fine knit jersey, use a special jersey needle or a needle designed for stretch fabrics. The ball-point tip will not damage the stitches of the fabric. Keep hems stretchy by stitching with a twin machine needle (see step 11).

 

 

STEP 4: BACK SLIT


Burda Style

 

Use a soft, lightweight interfacing to interface the back facing piece (wrong fabric side). Neaten outer facing edge. Pin facing right sides together with back piece (seam number 1). Stitch facing along edges of slit. Trim allowances and clip close to line of stitching. Turn facing to inside, baste. Press slit.

 

 

STEP 5: CONSTRUCT BACK YOKE


Burda Style

 

Pin back yoke pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch neckline edges together. Stitch bottom edges together just between markings. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim allowances. Clip allowances at markings on one yoke (= outside yoke) close to each last stitch (arrows). Turn yoke. Press edges. Topstitch close to neckline edge.

 

 

STEP 6: STITCH ON BACK YOKE


Burda Style

 

Twist yoke in centre back so that the outside of both halves faces up. Pin outside yoke right sides together with back piece from each side edge to clipping (seam number 1). Stitch. Trim allowances and press onto yoke. Turn in edge of inside yoke and baste to outside yoke. Topstitch yoke close to lower edge, catching inside edge. Tip: Stitch from each side edge toward centre back.

 

 

STEP 7: FRONT NECKLINE


Burda Style

 

Press facing strip in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Trim allowance at front neckline edge to 1 cm (3/8"). Pin strip right sides together with front neckline edge and with open edges lying on allowance. Stitch strip 1 cm (3/8") wide. Trim allowances. Turn strip to inside, baste. Press edges. Topstitch neckline 7 mm (1/4") wide next to edge, catching strip.

 

 

STEP 8: SHOULDER SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Stitch allowances about 2 mm (a scant 1/8") next to shoulder seam as illustrated.

 

 

STEP 9: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin side seams (seam number 4) and stitch. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Trim allowances of seams each to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together.

 

 

STEP 10: SET IN SLEEVES


Burda Style

 

Pin sleeves into armholes with right sides facing. Three points are important for proper fit: Match sleeve seam with side seam. Match markings 6 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together.

 

 

STEP 11: STITCH HEM


Burda Style

 

Press hem allowance to inside, pin. Topstitch lower edge 2.5 cm (1") wide with the twin machine needle. Stitch from the right side of the fabric at a straight stitch setting with two upper threaqds and one bobbin thread. The upper threads form parallel lines of stitching. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitching. This will keep the edge stretchy.

 

 

STEP 12: LOWER SLEEVE EDGE / ELASTIC CASING


Burda Style

 

Press allowance at lower sleeve edge to inside, turn in by 5 mm (3/16") and pin. Stitch allowance close to edge, leaving an opening of about 3 cm (1 1/4") to insert elastic. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert elastic for a comfortable fit at the wrist plus 2 cm (3/4"). Sew up opening in seam.

 

 

FINISHED!


Burda Style

 

A relaxed cut and the sporty elastic casings for this shirt give it a casual first impression. The second look high-lights a sophisticated accent in back with the twisted V-neckline! Combine this style with python print trousers and high heels for a truly elegant look. Buy the pattern here and sew along!


Posted in: Magazine