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Intriguing seams shape your figure. Follow our instructions below to sew our Sheath Dress easily and successfully. This beauty debuted in our Color Code pattern collection from the November 2018 issue of BurdaStyle magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this fitting dress!

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabrics
Step 1


Step 1: CUT PIECES FROM DRESS FABRIC
Fold fabric, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hems and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 2


Step 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along the hem line, the centre front line, and the lines at back walking slit to make these lines visible on the right side of the fabric. Remove the paper pattern pieces.

Step 3


Step 3: TRIM LEFT SKIRT BACK AT WALKING SLIT
On the left skirt back, trim the slit edge 1.5 cm (5/8") from the marked “left edge” (Linke Kante) line, as illustrated.

Step 4


Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. On pattern piece 7, fold the underlap with facing out of the way and in paper pattern pieces 1 to 8 to the lining fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 5


Step 5: THE INTERFACING
On each of the paper pattern pieces 1 and 3, use a pencil and ruler to draw a 3 cm (1¼") wide facing along the neck edge. Cut these facing pieces off the pattern pieces. Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin facing pieces to the interfacing, with piece 1 on the fold. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to the edges. Cut out interfacing pieces. Iron them to the wrong side of the neck edges of the lining pieces (see Step 18). Transfer pattern outlines to the lining pieces.

Step 6


Step 6: STITCH AND TOPSTITCH DARTS
Baste darts in bodice fronts. When stitching each dart, catch a bias strip of dress fabric, approx. 3 cm (1¼") wide, in the seam, on the side where the dart will be topstitched later. Press each dart toward side edge and press bias strip toward centre. Working from the outer side, topstitch 5 mm (3/16") from the dart seam, at the point angling in to the end of the dart and catching the bias strip with the topstitching. Pull thread ends to inside and knot together. Stitch and topstitch darts in back pieces and back skirt pieces in the same manner.

Step 7


Step 7: FRONT SECTION SEAMS / CENTER FRONT SEAM
Lay side fronts on center fronts, right sides facing. Pin side front seams, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch seams. Trim seam allowances to 1 cm (3/8") wide and press toward the front. Topstitch 5 mm (3/16") from each seam, thereby catching the seam allowances. Stitch center front seam. Press seam open. Topstitch 5 mm (3/16") from each side of the center front seam.

Step 8


Step 8: S KIRT / FRONT YOKE
Pin the front yoke pieces to the side front skirt pieces, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (4). Stitch as pinned. Trim the seam allowances. Press allowances toward the yokes. Topstitch the yokes 5 mm (3/16") from the seams, thereby catching the allowance.

Step 9


Step 9: FRONT SECTION SEAMS
Lay side front skirt pieces on the front skirt piece, right sides facing. Pin side front seams, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch seams. At each seam, trim seam allowances, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward centre front. Topstitch 5 mm (3/16") from each seam, thereby catching the allowances.

Step 10


Step 10: BACK WAIST BAND PIECES
Pin back waist band pieces to skirt back pieces, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (6). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward waist band pieces. Topstitch waist band pieces 5 mm (3/16") from seams, thereby catching the seam allowances.

Step 11


Step 11: CENTER BACK SEAM / SLITS
Finish edges of allowances on back skirt edges. Lay skirt backs together, right sides facing. Baste the centre back seam and baste the walking slit closed, with a continuous line of basting. Stitch the center back seam from lower slit mark to approx. 5 cm (2") below marked end of zipper (arrow). Tie-off ends of seam. Clip right skirt back close to stitching at upper edge of underlap (arrow).

Step 12


Step 12: HIDDEN WALKING SLIT
Press center back seam open above the clip. Below the clip, press slit allowances toward left skirt back. Press self-facing of right skirt back under, on marked fold line. Baste upper edges to skirt. Working from the outer side, topstitch left skirt back diagonally as marked, thereby catching the facings and underlap. Tie-off ends of seam. Remove basting at slit.

Step 13


Step 13: WAIST SEAMS
Pin bodice back pieces to upper edges of back waist bands, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (8). Stitch as pinned. Press seam allowances away from waist bands. Pin bodice front to upper edge of skirt, right sides facing, matching section seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances away from skirt.

Step 14


Step 14: INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Pin the open zipper face down to one back edge of dress, with the edge of the zipper tape 5 mm (3/16") from the edge of the fabric. The zipper teeth begin at the seam line on neck edge. Using the special presser foot, stitch the zipper in place, ending at the slit mark. Stitch the second zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner.

Step 15


Step 15: STITCH REMAINING CENTER BACK SEAM
Close the zipper slightly. Lay the skirt backs together, right sides facing. Stitch the remaining center back seam, stitching as close to the ends of the zipper stitching lines as possible and turning the end of the zipper out of the way, over the seam allowances to do so. Tie-off the ends of the seam. Press the seam open.

Step 16


Step 16: SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS
Lay dress back on dress front, right sides facing. Pin the shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch the shoulder seams, easing the back shoulder edges. Pin the side seams, matching seam numbers (3) and matching ends of horizontal seams. Stitch side seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.

Step 17


Step 17: HEM / SLIT
Open slit facings again. Finish lower edge of skirt. Press hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand – the stitches should not be visible on the outer side of the skirt. Turn slit facings to inside again, pin in place, and sew to hem allowance by hand.

Step 18


Step 18: SEW DRESS LINING
Stitch darts and seams on lining as described for the dress. Stitch the center back seam between the slit marks. Finish the edges of the allowances and press centre back seam open, also pressing allowances on slit edges to wrong side.

Step 19


Step 19: NECK EDGE
Pull dress lining over the dress, right sides facing. Pin neck edges of dress and lining together, matching shoulder seams. Fold lining edges to outside, 5 mm (3/16") before the slit edges, and pin in place. Fold seam allowances with zipper tapes to outside and pin in place, over the lining. Stitch along the marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip allowances on curves.

Step 20


Step 20: NECK EDGE
Turn dress lining up, toward neck opening. Press seam allowances toward lining and under stitch allowance to lining, close to the seam, stitching as close to back edges as possible. This ensures that the lining remains fl at and hidden along the inner neck edge, even though the neck edge is not topstitched.

Step 21


Step 21: SEW LINING IN PLACE
Turn the lining into the dress. Baste the neck edge and press. Baste dress and lining together along armhole edges. Turn back lining edges under and sew to zipper tapes. Press lower edge of lining to wrong side, 3 cm (1¼") wide, turn raw edge under, pin this allowance in place, and edge stitch in place. The lining should be approx. 1.5 cm (5/8") shorter than the dress.

Step 22


Step 22: SEW LINING TO WALKING SLIT
Above the walking slit, pin center back seams together. Pin the right lining back to the facing and sew in place by hand. Cut the left lining back to the width of the facing, as illustrated, then cut straight down to lower edge (i.e. trim away a rectangle). Clip lining into the corner. Turn lining edges under and sew in place as illustrated.

Step 23


Step 23: SEW SLEEVES
On each sleeve, pin elbow dart. Stitch dart from edge to point. Press dart down. Fold sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seam. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open. Finish lower edge of sleeve. Turn hem allowance to inside, pin in place, and sew loosely in place by hand.

Step 24


Step 24: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (10) on sleeve and bodice front must match. The sleeve seam must match the side seam. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve to armhole edge. Finish the edges of the seam allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, lay allowances toward the sleeve.

770x967_BS_2018_11_118_Heft


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Relaxed Long Sleeve Shirt.

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