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Long-sleeved top, with feminine appeal. We’ll show you how to cut the pieces and sew the top, step by step in this tutorial on how to make our Relaxed Long Sleeve Shirt pattern that debuted in our Cool Vichy pattern collection from the November 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this relaxed fit shirt!

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Step 1


Step 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 3 cm (1 1/4") for hem and sleeve hems and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges.

Step 2


Step 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks (notches) and asterisks to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.

Step 3


Step 3: TIPS FOR WORKING WITH JERSEY
When working with fine knit fabrics, use a stretch needle or jersey in your sewing machine. These needles have rounded points which won’t damage the knit fabric. To maintain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Stitch seam and hem allowances in place with a twin machine needle (see also Step 4). The edges of the seam allowances do not need to be finished, unless the stitches of the fabric come unraveled. In this case, finish edges with an overlock stitch.

Step 4


Step 4: NECK EDGES
On front and back neck edges, press seam allowances to wrong side and pin in place. Attach your machine’s twin needle. Place two spools of thread on the machine and thread the twin needle. Topstitch 1 cm (3/8") from each neck edge, with straight stitch, approx. 3 mm long. The upper threads form parallel lines of stitching and the bobbin thread forms zigzag stitches. This means the edge remains elastic. Tip: First test-stitch on a fabric scrap. Loosen the thread tension slightly, if needed.

Step 5


Step 5: GATHER SHOULDER EDGES
To gather each shoulder edge, first stitch two lines lines of machine basting, one on each side of the marked seam line, from * to *. Hold the bobbin threads, then gather the fabric along these threads to 7 cm (23/4"). Knot the gathering threads. Distribute the gathering evenly.

Step 6


Step 6: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay the front piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Pin the shoulder seams, matching the seam numbers (1). Stitch the seams as pinned. Tie-off the ends of the seams with backstitching. Finish edges of the seam allowances and press the seams open.

Step 7


Step 7: ATTACH SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, between seam marks, right sides facing. The seam marks (4) on sleeve and armhole edge must match. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Stitch each sleeve in place, not stitching across the seam allowances (arrows). Tie-off the ends of the seams.

Step 8


Step 8: LOWER SLEEVE SEAMS
Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the sleeve seam, matching the seam marks (3). Stitch the sleeve seam, turning the allowances of the sleeve attachment seam out of the way so they are not caught by the stitching. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.

Step 9


Step 9: SIDE SEAMS
Lay front on back, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch each side seam from seam mark to lower edge. At lower end of seam, beginning at hem line, angle stitching slightly out (arrow). Tie-off ends of seam. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open. Also fi nish edges of allowances of sleeve attachment seam and press open.

Step 10


Step 10: STITCH HEM IN PLACE
Finish lower edge of top. Press hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Again attach the twin needle to your machine. Working from the outer side and using the twin needle, topstitch 2.5 cm (1") from the lower edge of the top, thereby catching the hem.

Step 11


Step 11: STITCH SLEEVE HEMS IN PLACE
Finish lower edge of each sleeve. Press hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Working from the outer side and using the twin needle, topstitch 2.5 cm (1") from the lower edge of the sleeve, thereby catching the hem.

115 Sewing Lesson Shirt FASHION


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Fitted Blazer.

1 Comment

  • Burdalogo2_large

    Nov 9, 2018, 10.55 PMby Evmorales

    I fell in love as soon as I saw it. It’ll be one of my November challenge projects.

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