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This style is right on target, worn with a pencil skirt or with jeans. We show you how to sew one for yourself, step by step – just follow this sewing lesson to make our Peplum Jacket pattern that debuted in our Royalty pattern collection from the September 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this couture jacket!

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Step 1


Step 1: CUT PIECES FROM JACKET FABRIC
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in (selvages lie together). Pin paper pattern pieces to fabric as shown in cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances and 4 cm (1 5/8") wide hem allowances. Cut out fabric pieces along these lines. Cut collar (piece 10) last from a single layer of fabric. Pin pattern piece 10, printed side up, to right side of fabric.

Step 2


Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 11 and 12 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to the edges. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of facing pieces.

Step 3


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay/fold pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing/right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to wrong side of the fabric pieces (see manufacturer’s instructions). Hand baste along hem lines, fold lines, and centre back to make these lines visible on right side of fabric.

Step 4


Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 3, 5 to 9, and 13 to 15 to lining fabric, as shown in cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.

Step 5


Step 5: FRONT PIECES / DARTS
Fold each front piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together. Stitch dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Cut along centre of dart, ending approx. 4 cm (15/8") from the point. Trim dart allowances to approx. 7 mm (1/4") wide. Press seam open, pressing point of dart flat.

Step 6


Step 6: BACK
Lay side back pieces on centre back piece, right sides facing. Pin side back seams, matching seam marks (1). Stitch seams. Press seams open. Lay resulting back units together, right sides facing. Pin then stitch centre back seam. Press seam open.

Step 7


Step 7: SIDE SEAMS
Lay front pieces on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (4). Stitch seams. Press seams open.

Step 8


Step 8: LOWER FRONT AND BACK PIECES
On the lower front and back pieces, pin the section seams (seam numbers 2 and 3). Stitch these seams. Press seams open. Then stitch the side seams, matching seam numbers (5). Press the seams open. Pin the lower jacket unit to the upper jacket unit, right sides facing (seam number 6), matching the seams. Stitch as pinned. Press seam open.

Step 9


Step 9: ZIPPER
If needed, shorten the zipper. Separate the zipper halves. Baste the zipper tapes to the seam allowances of the jacket fronts, right sides facing; the zipper teeth lie toward the fabric pieces. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes toward the outer side. Stitch zipper halves in place, using your machine’s zipper foot.

Step 10


Step 10: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Lay front facing pieces on back facing piece, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (12). Press seams open. Lay the facing aside for the time being.

Step 11


Step 11: STITCH SLEEVE SEAMS
Lay each under sleeve piece on an upper sleeve piece, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seams (seam number 9) then stitch seams as pinned. Press seams open. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams (seam number 10) then stitch as pinned. Press seams open. Fold each hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew loosely in place by hand.

Step 12


Step 12: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, easing the sleeve cap between the •. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. The seam marks (11) on the upper sleeve and front must match. Working from the sleeve side, baste then stitch the sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, turn allowances toward the sleeve.

Step 13


Step 13: SEW THE COLLAR
Fold the collar piece along the marked fold line, right side facing in. Pin the narrow edges and lower edges together, as far as the seam marks (seam number 8). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. At each seam mark, clip allowances close to the last stitch. Turn the collar right side out. Baste the seamed edges and press. Pin the open edges together.

Step 14


Step 14: BASTE COLLAR IN PLACE
Baste the collar to the neck edge, between the seam marks (seam number 8). The longer collar end lies on the right jacket front. The centre back of the collar must meet the centre back seam of the jacket.

Step 15


Step 15: SEW THE LINING
Lay lining back pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch the centre back seam and stitch as marked to form the ease pleat. Press the pleat to one side. Stitch darts in lining fronts. Press darts toward front edges. Stitch lining pieces together, matching the seam numbers. Set sleeves in lining. Press allowances on lower edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong side.

Step 16


Step 16: STITCH FACING TO LINING
Pin facing to lining, right sides together, matching seam numbers (15) and matching shoulder seams. Stitch, beginning/ending approx. 10 cm (4") above the lower edge (arrow). Trim seam allowances. On back neck edge, clip lining allowance several times. Press allowances toward lining.

Step 17


Step 17: LINE THE JACKET
Pin the facing/lining unit to the jacket, right sides together. Stitch together along edges, on the front edges using the zipper foot and catching the zipper halves. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. On the jacket fronts, trim hem allowance only up to 2 cm (3/4") before the facing edge. Turn the jacket right side out. Pull the lining into the jacket, wrong sides facing. Baste the seamed edges and press.

Step 18


Step 18: HEMS / SEW LINING EDGES IN PLACE
Fold hem allowances to the inside, baste, and press. Sew hems loosely in place by hand. Sew facings to the jacket hem. On jacket and sleeves, slide lower edges of lining up slightly and sew to hem/sleeve hem by hand. Lay extra length of the lining down, in a small fold. Sew the remaining lining to the front facings.

Peplum Jacket Finished


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Boxy Cut Sweatshirt.

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