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Are you ready for a real masterpiece? Here we show you, step by step how to sew a classic glen check blazer. Simply follow the tutorial below to make our Fitted Blazer that debuted in our Gentle Woman pattern collection from the October 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this fitted chic blazer!

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


101 Blazer Sewing Lesson FABRIC
Step 1


Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES
Fold the jacket fabric lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Draw the measured pieces (a and b) directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.

Lining: Following the cutting layout, cut pieces 3, 4, 5, 12, 13, and b from lining fabric, adding 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam and hem allowances.

Step 2


Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1 and 7 to 11 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Draw piece a on the interfacing. Cut out all interfacing pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces. In addition, iron interfacing strips to wrong side of fabric on slit facings of back and sleeve pieces and hem allowances of side, back, and sleeve pieces. Lay or fold interfaced pieces together again, right sides facing. Pin pattern pieces to fabric pieces.

Step 3


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
For sizes 36 to 44, mark the front end of the pocket line on each front piece, the same distance from dart as marked for size 34. On all fabric and lining pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Hand baste along lines for pockets, slits, hems, center front, and folds to make them visible on right side of fabric.

Step 4


Step 4: FRONT DARTS
Slash each front piece along marked pocket line, ending 1.5 cm (5/8") before the end. Trim away seam allowances. Cut along centre of dart, ending approx. 2 cm (3/4") from the point. Pin dart closed. Stitch dart toward point. Trim seam allowances. Press dart seam open, pressing point flat. Hand sew edges of horizontal slash closed, with herringbone stitches.

Step 5


Step 5: SIDE FRONT SEAMS
Lay side pieces on front pieces, right sides facing. Pin side front seams, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch seams. Press seams open. On each side piece, use vanishing chalk to mark the pocket line as an extension of the slash and to the length of the flap (a total of 14 cm/ 5 1/2"). Iron interfacing strips, 4 cm (15/8") wide, to the wrong side of each side piece, over the marked line.

Step 6


Step 6: STITCH PIPING IN PLACE
With vanishing chalk, mark piping placement lines on the right fabric side, 1.5 cm (5/8") above and below each pocket line. Press each piping strip in half lengthwise. Pin each piping strip in place so the fold edge meets the marked placement line. Mark pocket ends on piping. Stitch piping in place, 7 mm (1/4") from fold edge. Cut side piece, ending 1.5 cm (5/8") before pocket end, and clip diagonally into each corner, thereby forming small triangles – do not cut piping.

Step 7


Step 7: ATTACH POCKET LINING PIECES
Turn pipings toward pocket opening and press. Fold small triangles to inside and stitch to pipings. On inside, lay each pocket lining piece over lower piping attachment seam, right side facing wrong side, and pin in place – pocket lining piece points up. Working from outer side, stitch along lower piping attachment seam, thereby catching lining piece. Press lining piece down.

Step 8


Step 8: FLAPS
Pin each interfaced flap piece to a flap piece with no interfacing, right sides together. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Turn flap right side out and press. Slide open edge of each flap under the up-per piping and pin in place.

Step 9


Step 9: STITCH POCKET AND LINING PIECES TOGETHER
Working from the inside, lay each pocket piece of main fabric on pocket lining piece, right sides facing. Pin to attachment seam of upper piping. Working from the outer side, stitch along upper piping attachment seam, thereby catching the flap and pocket piece. Pin pocket and lining pieces together, trim even, and stitch edges together.

Step 10


Step 10: CENTER BACK SEAM
Trim left back piece 1.5 cm (5/8") from marked LEFT EDGE line. Lay back pieces together, right sides facing. Baste center back seam from upper to lower edges. Stitch seam from upper edge to slit mark. Tie-off ends of seam. On right back, clip allowance at upper end of underlap into corner (arrow).

Step 11


Step 11: BACK SLIT
Press back seam open above clip. Press slit allowances toward left back. On right back, press facing to inside, along marked FOLD LINE, and baste in place. Baste facing and underlap to left back. Working from the outer side, topstitch left back diagonally, as marked, thereby catching the facing and underlap.

Step 12


Step 12: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, easing back shoulder edges. Stitch seams. Also stitch shoulder seams on facing pieces, matching seam numbers (4). Press all seams open.

Step 13


Step 13: COLLAR STANDS
Pin collar stand pieces to upper and under collar pieces, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seams open. Topstitch close to each side of each seam.

Step 14


Step 14: ATTACH COLLAR
Stitch under collar with collar stand to each jacket front, from seam mark to corner, matching seam numbers (5). Tie-off ends of seam. Stitch upper collar to front facings in the same manner, matching seam numbers (6). Clip jacket fronts and front facings each into corner, close to last stitch (arrow).

Step 15


Step 15: ATTACH COLLAR
Pin under collar to neck edge of jacket, between clips, matching seam marks on collar stand to shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seam open. Stitch upper collar to neck edge of facing in the same manner.

Step 16


Step 16: STITCH COLLAR PIECES TOGETHER
Pin upper collar to under collar, right sides facing, easing extra length from outer edges and matching seam lines. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. At seam marks, clip seam allowances of fronts and facings close to stitching (arrow). Between each clip and front edge, turn allowance of lapel up.

Step 17


Step 17: SEW LAPELS
Lay facings on jacket fronts, right sides together, on lapels easing extra length from outer edges. Pin edges together. Beginning at each seam mark, stitch edges together, on lower edge ending stitching at marked hem line. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. On hem edge, trim only up to 2 cm (3/4") from facing edge (arrow).

Step 18


Step 18: BASTE LAPEL CURVES
Turn collar and facings to inside. Baste facings and press. Roll under collar and jacket fronts along marked FOLD LINES. Baste pieces together with long angled stitches. Pin collar attachment seams together then stitch them together by machine or sew them together by hand, with back stitches.

Step 19


Step 19: SIDE BACK SEAMS HEM / SLIT
Lay side pieces on back piece, right sides facing. Pin side back seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch seams. Press seams open. At back slit, open facings. Finish lower edge of jacket. Turn hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand. Turn facings to inside again and sew to hem by hand.

Step 20


Step 20: SLEEVES WITH PLACKETS
Lay each under sleeve on upper sleeve, right sides facing. Stitch back sleeve seam, ending at slit mark and matching seam numbers (8). Tie-off ends of seam. Baste slit closed. Stitch edges of self-facings together. Press allowances and facing toward upper sleeve. Fold each sleeve lengthwise. Pin front sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (9). Stitch seam. Press seam open.

Step 21


Step 21: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. The seam marks (10) on sleeve and jacket front must match. Baste sleeve in place, easing sleeve cap. Stitch. In the area of the sleeve cap, press seam allowances toward sleeve. Try the jacket on and pin raglan shoulder pads in place. Hand sew shoulder pads to allowances of shoulder and sleeve attachment seams. Turn sleeve hem allowances to inside, press, and sew loosely in place by hand.

Step 22


Step 22: SEW LINING
Pin lining backs together, right sides facing. Stitch centre back seam, ending at slit mark. Stitch as marked to form the ease pleat, ending at seam mark (arrow). Press pleat toward right back (as mirror image of jacket). Sew lining. Stitch sleeve linings, stitching plackets closed. Set sleeves in lining. Press allowances on lower edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong side.

Step 23


Step 23: ATTACH LINING
Pin lining to facing, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch, beginning and ending approx. 10 cm (4") above hem edge (arrow). On back neck edge, clip seam allowance of lining. Lay lining in jacket, wrong sides facing. Press allowances toward lining. Pull linings into sleeves. Slide lower edge of each sleeve lining up and sew to sleeve hem.

Step 24


Step 24: SEW LINING EDGES
Pin lining to facing of underlap. Cut the opposite lining back horizontally, 1 cm (3/8") below upper slit end, as illustrated. Then cut straight down and clip into corner (arrow). Turn lining edges under and pin in place. Slide lower lining edge up slightly and sew to hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining down, in a small fold. Sew lining to slit facings and front facings. Work buttonholes as marked. Sew buttons in place, sewing the small buttons to the upper sleeves.

101 Blazer Sewing Lesson FASHION


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Blouse with Side Slits.

1 Comment

  • Img_0960_large

    Nov 6, 2018, 02.34 PMby splendarose

    Thank you for this magnificent tutorial.

    • This is a question
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