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This dress is a real masterpiece! But don’t worry – we help you here with the sewing, every step of the way. Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Faux Two-Piece Dress pattern that debuted in our Best Dressed pattern collection from the February 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this couture dress.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2


Step 1: CUT PIECES FROM DRESS FABRICS
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hems and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along the-se chalk lines. Draw the measured pieces (a and b) directly on the fabric, with tailor’s chalk. Cut out the measured fabric pieces.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 7 and 8 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Draw only half of belt length (b), i.e. 2 pieces, each half as long as the belt piece. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of fabric pieces.


Steps 3 4


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing, or fold them again, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow manufacturer’s instructions. Hand baste along lines for hem, pleats, folds, placement, and centre front to make these lines visible on right side of fabric. Fastener positions apply only for size 34 (see also Step 23).

Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. On pattern piece for skirt back (piece 6), fold slit facings out of the way, along centre back. Pin pattern pieces 6 and 10 to 13 to the lining fabric. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.


Step 5


Step 5: FRONT PIECES
Fold each front piece along centre of dart, right side facing in. Pin dart. Stitch dart toward point, beginning at marked seam allowance on lower end. Clip seam allowance into corner, up to last stitch (arrow). Trim dart allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide and press open, pressing the point fl at. Lay side front pieces on centre front pieces, right sides facing. Pin side front seams. Stitch seams as pinned. Press seams open.


Step 6


Step 6: SHOULDER SEAMS
Stitch waist darts in back pieces, stitching each from edge to point. Press darts toward centre back. Lay bodice fronts on bodice backs, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, easing back shoulder edges. Stitch seams as pinned. Lay back facing pieces on front facing pieces, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open.


Step 7


Step 7: STITCH FACINGS IN PLACE
Pin facings to bodice fronts and back neck edges, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch edges together. Trim seam allowanc-es and clip curves. Turn facings to inside. Baste seamed edges and press. Baste inner facing edges to fronts, from lower edge to seam mark.


Step 8


Step 8: CENTER BACK SEAM
On the left skirt back piece, trim slit edge 1.5 cm (5/8") from marked “left edge” line. Finish edges of allowances on back skirt edges. Stitch darts in skirt backs. Press darts toward centre back. Lay skirt back pieces together, right sides facing. Baste centre back seam and baste walking slit closed. Stitch centre back seam from lower slit mark to approx. 5 cm (2") below marked end of zipper (arrow). Tie-off ends of seam. At upper end of underlap, clip right skirt back, ending at stitch-ing line (arrow).


Step 9


Step 9: CONCEALED WALKING SLIT
Press seam open above clip. Below the clip, press slit allowances toward left skirt back. On right skirt back, press facing to wrong side, along marked fold line. Baste upper edge to skirt. Work-ing from outside, topstitch left skirt back diagonally, as marked, thereby catching facings and under-lap. Tie-off ends of stitching. Remove basting at slit.


Step 10


Step 10: HIP YOKE POCKETS
On skirt front, iron strips of interfacing, 2 cm (3/4") wide, to wrong side of pocket opening edges. Pin pocket lining pieces to pocket opening edges, right sides facing, and stitch in place. Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward pocket lining pieces. Understitch lining pieces to seam allowances, stitching close to seams. Turn pocket lining pieces to inside. Baste pocket opening edges and press.


Step 11


Step 11: STITCH POCKET EDGES TOGETHER
Pin each pocket opening edge to hip yoke piece, to meet marked placement line. Pin pocket edges together and stitch as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances together. Baste pockets to side edges of skirt.


Step 12


Step 12: FRONT WAIST SEAM
Pin one bodice front to skirt front, right sides facing. Stitch from side edge to dart, making sure to not catch the pocket – interrupt the seam at pocket opening. Tie-off ends of seam. Turn bod-ice front up. Press seam allowances toward bodice front. At dart, fold bodice front toward the side. Baste open inner edge of bodice front and facing to side pleat line of skirt front, right sides facing.


Step 13


Step 13: PLEAT / STITCH BODICE FRONT IN PLACE
Fold skirt front so that pleat lines meet, right side facing in. Stitch pleat from upper edge to marked pleat arrow, catching the bodice front but making sure to not catch the pocket. Tie-off ends of seam. Press pleat fold toward side edge. Lay pocket over pleat and sew in place. Stitch the second bodice front in place in the same manner.


Step 14


Step 14: BACK WAIST SEAMS / SIDE SEAMS
Lay bodice backs on skirt backs, right sides facing. Pin back waist seams, matching darts. Stitch seams as pinned. Press seam allowances toward bodice. Lay dress back on dress front, right sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch side seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.


Step 15


Step 15: ZIPPER
Turn back facings up again. Finish edges of allowances on back edges. Pin the open zipper to outer side of one back edge of dress, right side facing down, with edge of zipper tape 5 mm (3/16") from fabric edge. Zipper teeth be gin at facing seam. Using the special presser foot, stitch zipper in place, ending stitching at slit mark. Stitch sec-ond zipper tape to opposite slit edge in the same manner.


Step 16


Step 16: STITCH REMAINING CENTER BACK SEAM
Close the zipper slightly. Lay skirt backs together, right sides facing. Stitch remaining centre back seam, turning end of zipper out of the way, over seam allowances, and ending stitching as close to zipper stitching as possible. Tie-off ends of seam. Press seam open.


Step 17


Step 17: HEM / SLIT
Open facings on slit edges again. Finish lower edge of skirt. Fold hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand – stitches should not be visible on the outer side. Turn slit facings to inside again, pin to hem allowance, and sew in place by hand.


Step 18


Step 18: SEW THE DRESS LINING
Bodice lining: Stitch darts, shoulder seams, and side seams. Skirt lining: Stitch darts. Stitch centre back seam between slit marks. Stitch side seams. Press seams open. Pin bodice lining to upper edge of skirt lining, right sides facing, match-ing side seams and matching darts. Beginning/end-ing at side pleat lines on skirt (arrows), stitch bod-ice to skirt, matching seam numbers (9). Press seam allowances toward bodice. Lay pleats in skirt front in direction of arrows and baste in place.


Step 19


Step 19: STITCH BODICE LINING TO FACINGS
Pin bodice lining to inner facing edges, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seam allowances toward lining. Pin lining in dress, wrong sides facing. Between the pleats, baste upper skirt edges of main fabric and lining together. Working from the outer side, lay right front over left front, matching centre fronts, and pin in place. On inside, hand sew upper skirt edge to facings, with herringbone stitches.


Step 20


Step 20: SEW LINING IN PLACE
Turn back edges of facing and lining under and sew to zipper tapes. Press lower lining edge to wrong side, 3 cm (1 1/4") wide, turn raw edge under, pin in place, then edge-stitch in place. Above the slit, pin centre back seams together. Pin the right skirt lining back to the facing and sew in place by hand. Cut the left skirt lining back to width of facing, as illustrated, then cut straight down to lower edge. Clip lining into corner. Turn lining edges under and sew in place as illustrated. Baste lining to bodice along armhole edges.


Step 21


Step 21: SEW SLEEVES
Pin elbow darts. Stitch each dart from edge to point. Press darts down. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seam. Finish edges of allowances and press seam open. Finish lower edge of each sleeve. Press hem allowance to inside, pin in place, and sew loosely in place by hand.


Step 22


Step 22: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (11) on sleeve and bodice front must match. The sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Working from the sleeve side, baste sleeve to armhole edge, easing the sleeve cap between the •. Stitch the sleeve to the armhole edge. Finish edges of seam allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, turn allowances toward sleeve.


Step 23


Step 23: FRONT FASTENING
Sizes 36 to 44: On right bodice front, mark the x for the upper buttonhole the same distance from edges as marked for size 34 (see pat-tern piece 1). The lowest x applies for all sizes. Mark the remaining x’s, evenly spaced between upper and lower x’s. Work horizontal buttonholes, beginning at each mark. Pin right front to left front, matching centre fronts. Mark button positions. Sew buttons in place as marked. At the x at waist level and at the upper x, sew snap fasteners to right facing and to left bodice front.


Step 24


Step 24: BELT /LOOPS
Fold belt piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together, 1.5 cm (5/8") from edge, as shown. Trim allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Turn belt right side out. Press. Finish edge of open end. Fold this end over bar of buckle, 3 cm (11/4") wide, and sew in place. On strip for loops, press long edges to wrong side, 0.7 cm (1/4") wide, then press strip in half lengthwise. Top-stitch close to long edges. Cut strip into 6 equal pieces. On each piece, finish ends. Turn ends under (finished length = 6 cm/ 23/8"). Pin loops over skirt attachment seam, at front and back darts and over side seams. Edge-stitch loop ends in place.


Pattern


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Short Jacket.

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