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Cool and comfortable. This style of soft cotton is the essence of summer, and let us show you how easy it is to sew and follow this sewing lesson to make our Crossover Culottes pattern that debuted in our Miami Vibes pattern collection from the June 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew these intricate culottes.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES
Pin pattern pieces to a single layer of fabric, right side facing up, as shown in the cutting lay-out. Important: The printed sides of pattern pieces 1, 2, and 4 must be facing up. For each of the pairs of pattern pieces, 3, 5 to 7, and 9 pin one piece to the fabric with its printed side up and the other piece, printed side down. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as fol-lows: 3 cm (11/4") for hems on front and back pieces, and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out all fabric pieces.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 8 and 9 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces. Iron strips of interfacing, 2 cm (3/4") wide, to wrong sides of pocket opening edges on front culotte pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along place-ment lines, centre front line, and hem lines, to make these lines visible on right side of fabric.

Step 4


Step 4: BACK DARTS
Fold each back piece along centre of dart, right side facing in. Pin marked dart lines together. Stitch dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Press dart toward centre back.

Step 5


Step 5: HIP YOKE POCKETS
Pin each pocket piece to pocket opening edge, right sides facing. Stitch together along pocket opening edge. Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward pocket piece. Under-stitch pocket to allowances, close to seam.

Step 6


Step 6: STITCH POCKET EDGES TOGETHER
Turn pocket piece to inside. Baste seamed edge and press. Baste pocket opening edge to hip yoke piece, to meet placement line. On inside, pin pocket edges together, then stitch as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances together. Baste side edge of pocket to culottes piece.

Step 7


Step 7: FRONT PLEATS
Fold side front piece and left front piece each so that marked pleat lines meet and arrow ends meet, right side facing in. Pin pleat lines together. Stitch lines together, from upper edge to pleat arrow. Tie-off ends of seams with back-stitching. Press pleat fold toward pocket opening.

Step 8


Step 8: BAND
On one band piece, iron a strip of interfacing to wrong side of cut-on tab, as reinforcement for the snap fasteners. Pin band pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch together along front and lower edges, as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. At cut-on tab, clip allowances into corners (arrows). Turn band right side out. Baste seamed edges and press. Pin open edges together.

Step 9


Step 9: RIGHT FRONT / SECTION SEAM
Pin band to centre front piece, with outer side of band piece facing right side of culotte piece and matching seam numbers (1). The lower edge of band meets the marked hem line on culotte piece. Pin side front piece to centre front piece, over the band, right sides facing. Stitch the section seam. Trim seam allowances, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward side front piece. Turn band forward. Baste pocket to upper edge.

Step 10


Step 10: SIDE SEAMS / LEFT SLIT
Lay back pieces on front pieces, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch right side seam from upper to lower edges. Stitch left side seam from lower edge to approx. 10 cm (4") below slit mark (arrow). Tie-off ends of seams. Finish edges of allowances, including those on slit. Press seams open.

Step 11


Step 11: INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Open the zipper. Pin one zipper tape, face down, to one slit edge, 5 mm (3/16") from the fabric edge. The zipper teeth begin at marked seam line on upper edge. With the special presser foot, stitch zipper to the slit edge, ending at the slit mark. Stitch the second zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner. Tie-off ends of stitching.

Step 12


Step 12: REMAINING SIDE SEAM
Close the zipper slightly. Again lay the culotte front on the culotte back, right sides facing. Stitch remaining side seam, ending as close to slit mark as possible, turning end of the zipper out of the way to do so. Tie-off ends of stitching.

Step 13


Step 13: INNER LEG SEAMS
Lay back culotte pieces on front pieces, right sides facing. Pin inner leg seams, matching seam numbers (4). Stitch seams as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.

Step 14


Step 14: CENTER SEAM
Turn one culotte leg right side out. Pull one leg into the other, right sides facing. Pin inner leg seams together. Pin centre seam from upper front edge to upper back edge. Stitch seam as pinned, making sure to not catch the band. Trim edges of seam allowances in the area of the crotch curve. Finish edges of seam allowances. Press seam open from upper front and back edges to beginnings of crotch curve. Baste band to upper edge of culottes.

Step 15


Step 15: FACING
Lay back facing pieces together, right sides together. Stitch centre seam. Press seam open. Lay front facing on back facing, right sides together. Stitch right side seam (as mirror image of skirt seam), matching seam numbers (5). Press seam open. Finish lower facing edge.

Step 16


Step 16: ATTACH FACING
Pin facing to upper edge of culottes, right sides together, matching centre back seams and matching right side seams. Fold seam allowance on each narrow edge of facing to outside, 5 mm (3/16") before the slit edge, and pin in place. On slit edges of culottes, fold allowances with zipper tapes to outside and pin in place, over the facing edges. Stitch along the marked upper edge. Trim seam allowances.

Step 17


Step 17: TURN FACING TO INSIDE, AND SEW IN PLACE
Turn facing up. Press seam allowances toward facing and understitch to facing, close to attachment seam, stitching as far as possible. Turn facing to inside. Press upper edge. Hand sew narrow facing edges to zipper tapes. Hand sew lower facing edge to allowances of center seams and right side seam.

Step 18


Step 18: TAB / HEM
Pin the band tab to the left culottes front. Attach three (decorative) upper snap halves to tab as marked, thereby catching the upper pocket piece. Do not catch the hip yoke piece! Finish lower edge of each leg, press hem allowance to wrong side, and baste in place. Sew hem loosely in place by hand, making sure that the stitches are not visible on the outer side – catch only 1 or 2 fabric threads with each stitch.

Finished


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Collarless Blouse.

1 Comment

  • Logo4957b_large

    Jun 29, 2018, 01.07 AMby jenss-1

    Cute, though I think I’d go a little shorter.

    • This is a question
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