Collarless – but with double welt pockets: Let us show you how to sew a master piece.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE PIECES FROM THE JACKET FABRIC
Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin on the paper pattern pieces as shown in the pattern layout. Use the ruler and tailor's chalk to mark seam allowances and hem allowances: 4 cm (1 5/8") for hem and sleeve hem (pieces 5, 6 + 7), 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Use the ruler and tailor's chalk to mark pieces cut to measure a and b directly on the fabric. Cut out all the pieces.
STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 1, 2, 4, 8 and 9. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges and 4 cm (1 5/8") hem allowance. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong fabric side of the respective fabric pieces. Also cut strips of interfacing 4 cm (15/8") wide and iron on welt strips a and also on the hem allowance of the back and sleeve pieces.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Lay all interfaced pieces right sides together again / fold in half. Pin on pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark hem lines, fold lines, pocket line and also the centre front on the right fabric side.
STEP 4: CUT THE OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining in half lengthwise with right side facing in. Pin pieces 4 to 7, 10 and 11 to the lining as shown in the pattern layout. Use the ruler and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances. Mark pocket piece b cut to measure directly on the fabric. Cut out all the pieces. Transfer the pattern outlines to the wrong side of the lining pieces with carbon paper.
STEP 5: CUT OUT THE FRONT PIECES
Mark the front end of the pocket for all sizes 1.5 cm (5/8") next to front dart line. Clip each front piece on marked pocket line to 1 cm (3/8") before marked end of pocket (arrow). Trim allowance at remainder of lower edge next to dart as illustrated. Then clip dart open along the middle between marked lines to about 2 cm (3/4") before point of dart.
STEP 6: DARTS / BASTE POCKET OPENINGS CLOSED
Fold front, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together. Stitch darts toward points. Trim allowance of darts to 7 mm (1/4") and press open. Press points of darts flat. Sew pocket opening edges together with herringbone stitch by hand.
STEP 7: STITCH ON FRONT YOKES
Pin front yoke pieces right sides together with fronts (seam number 1) and stitch. Press allowances onto yokes.
STEP 8: FRONT PANEL SEAMS
Lay side pieces right sides together with fronts. Pin panel seams (seam number 2) and stitch. Press allowances open. Mark pocket line on each side piece all in one from front: length of pocket = 13.5 cm (53/8"). Use basting thread to transfer line on side piece to right side of fabric.
STEP 9: DOUBLE WELT POCKETS
Use tailor's chalk to mark auxilary lines on right side of fabric 1.5 cm (5/8") above and below pocket line (= slash line). Press welt strips in half lengthwise and baste so that each fold edge meets with an auxilary line. Mark pocket end on welt strips. Stitch welts between marked ends each 7 mm (1/4") next to fold edge. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 10: STITCH ON POCKET LINING PIECES
Slash side piece between lines of stitching to 1 cm (3/8") before end of welt stitching lines. Clip front and side piece each at an angle toward each last stitch as illustrated to form small triangles of fabric. Press welts toward opening. Baste pocket lining piece on inside so that the 16.5 cm (61/2") long edge lies over joining seam of lower welt. Work from outside of garment piece to stitch
STEP 11: STITCH ON FABRIC POCKET PIECES
Lay small triangles of fabric at pocket opening ends to inside. Baste fabric pocket piece so that the 16.5 cm (6 1/2") long edge lies over joining seam of upper welt. Work from outside of garment piece to stitch pocket in line of joining seam. Trim pocket pieces evenly and pin together. Work from lining side of pocket to stitch pocket pieces together, stitching across triangles at ends of pocket opening. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 12: CENTRE BACK SEAM / BACK PANEL SEAMS
Lay back pieces right sides together and stitch centre seam. Press allowances open. Lay side pieces right sides together with back. Pin panel seams (seam number 3), easing back slightly and matching markings. Stitch seams. Press allowances open.
STEP 13: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 4), easing back shoulder edges slightly. Stitch seams. Press allowances open. Lay front facings right sides together with back facing. Stitch shoulder edges together (seam number 5). Press allowances open.
STEP 14: STITCH SLEEVES TOGET HER
Lay undersleeve pieces right sides together with upper sleeves. Pin back sleeve seams (seam number 7) and stitch. Press allowances open. Lay front upper sleeve pieces right sides together with upper sleeves. Pin seams (seam number 6). Press allowances open. Ease sleeve cap: Stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) 5 mm (3/16") to each side of marked seam line from • to •. Leave a length of thread hanging.
STEP 15: FRONT SLEEVE SEAMS / SLEEVE HEMS
Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve edges together (seam number 8) and stitch. Press allowances open. Baste sleeve hem allowance to inside, press. Stitch hem loosely by hand.
STEP 16: SETTING IN SLEEVES
Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, the following points are important for proper fit: Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Match seam of upper sleeve with yoke joining seam. Match markings 9 on upper sleeve and front. Match marking on undersleeve with marking on side piece. Pull bobbin threads at sleeve cap to fit sleeve into armhole without forming tucks. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances and press toward sleeves carefully at sleeve caps.
STEP 17: STITCH FACING
Pin facing right sides together with jacket. Stitch edges together. Trim allow ances, clip curves at several intervals close to line of stitching. Trim hem allowance on front pieces to just 2 cm (3/4") before end of facing as illustrated.
STEP 18: TURN FACING TO INSIDE
Press allowances onto facing. Stitch facing to allowances close to joining seam as far as possible. This line of stitching is not visible on the outside of the garment and will ensure that the edge lies nicely flat and will prevent the facing from slipping. Turn facing to inside. Baste edge and go on to baste hem allowance to inside all in one. Press edges. Stitch hem loosely by hand.
STEP 19: BACK LINING / BACK EASE PLEAT
Lay back pieces right sides together. Stitch centre seam and stitch on lines marked for ease pleat. Press pleat to one side.
STEP 20: STITCH LINING TOGETHER
Stitch bust darts on front pieces toward points of darts. Press darts down. Stitch lining pieces together, matching same seam numbers. Set sleeves into lining. Press allowance at lower edge of jacket and at lower sleeve edges to inside.
STEP 21: STITCH LINING TO FACING
Pin lining right sides together with inside facing edge (seam number 11), matching shoulder seams. Stitch, begining and ending about 10 cm (4") before lower edge (arrow). Trim allowances. Clip allowances of lining at back neckline at several intervals. Place lining inside jacket with wrong sides facing. Place sleeve linings inside sleeves. Press allowances onto lining.
STEP 22: SEW HEM / SEW ON LINING
Sew on facings at hem. Push up lower edge of lining and sew on at hem by hand. Lay extra length of lining down like a small fold. Sew on remainder of lining at front facings.
STEP 23: SEW ON THE SLEEVE / LINING
Push up lower edge of each sleeve lining and pin at the sleeve hem, matching seams. Sew on sleeve lining at hem of fabric sleeve by hand. Lay extra length of lining down and press like a small fold.
STEP 24: BUTTONHOLE / BUTTON
Work buttonhole crosswise on right front from marked x. Gear size of buttonhole to fit your button. Tip: Test stitch a buttonhole first on a scrap of fabric to determine optimal stitich setting, thread tension and length of buttonhole. Sew button on left front to match, leaving a shank of thread, e.g. do not pull the thread too tightly when sewing on the button. Tip: Use a matchstick as a place holder between the button and the fabric. Finally, wrap the thread several times securely around the shank and conceal the ends.
This blazer is a strong cut with feminine accents. A demure flow of seam panels follow the silhoutte – a look that is very flattering in a modern floral jacquard. Click here to buy the pattern!