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No cuffs, but stylish sleeve pleats. This beauty is easy enough for beginners, simply follow the step-by-step below to make our Blouse with Side Slits pattern that debuted in our Trés Chic pattern collection from the October 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this everyday top!

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
NEW Step 1


Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout, laying pattern pieces 1, 4, and 5 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 2


Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 4 and 5 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces. Fold each interfaced piece in half, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to interfaced fabric pieces.

Step 3


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks (notches) onto the wrong sides of all fabric pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.

Step 4


Step 4: BUST DARTS / CENTER BACK SEAM
Fold the front piece, right side facing in, matching the lines of each dart. Pin dart lines together. Stitch each dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Press darts down. Lay back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin center back seam then stitch seam as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.

Step 5


Step 5: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay blouse front on blouse back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch shoulder seams. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (¼") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances to-ward back. Lay front facing piece on back facing piece, right sides together. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch seams. Press seams open. Finish outer edge of facing.

Step 6


Step 6: STITCH FACING IN PLACE
Pin facing to neck edge of blouse, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch facing to blouse along neck edge. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (¼") wide and clip curves. At center front, clip allowances close to stitching (arrow).

Step 7


Step 7: TURN FACING TO INSIDE
First, turn the facing up, toward the neck opening, and press the seam allowances toward the facing. Topstitch the facing close to the attachment seam, thereby catching the seam allowances. This helps the facing lie smoothly on the inside of the blouse, without needing to have visible topstitching on the neck edge. Then turn the facing to the inside. Baste the neck edge, then press. Hand sew the inner facing edge to the allowances of the shoulder seams and centre back seam.

Step 8


Step 8: SIDE SEAMS / SLITS
Lay blouse front on blouse back, right sides facing. Pin the side seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch the seams as pinned, ending stitching at slit marks (arrow). Tie-off the ends of the seams with backstitching. Finish the edges of the seam allowances and press the seams open, also pressing allowances on the slit edges to the wrong side.

Step 9


Step 9: SLEEVE PLEATS
Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise, right side facing in. First, for the middle pleat, pin the two pleat lines together then stitch between the seam marks. Tie-off ends of stitching. Press the pleat so that the seam meets the centre (= inverted pleat) and pin in place. Working from the outer side, stitch along the centre, between seam marks. Tie-off ends of stitching. Stitch the remaining pleats. Beginning at the centre, press pleat folds toward side edges of the sleeve.

Step 10


Step 10: SLEEVE SEAMS / SLEEVE HEM
Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (4). Stitch seam. Trim seam allowances, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances to one side. Press sleeve hem allowance to inside, turn raw edge under, and pin allowance in place. Edgestitch hem in place.

Step 11


Step 11: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (5) on sleeve and blouse front must match. The sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Working from the sleeve side, baste sleeve to armhole edge, easing the sleeve cap. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances. Finish edges of allowances together. In area of the sleeve cap, press allowances toward sleeve.

Step 12


Step 12: HEM / SLITS
On slit edges, open allowances again. Press hem allowance to wrong side, turn raw edge under, and pin hem in place. Edgestitch hem in place. Turn slit allowances to inside again, fold edges under by half allowance width, and pin in place. Edgestitch slit allowances in place, making a few horizontal stitches across upper end of slit.

Untitled design (16)


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Peplum Jacket.

1 Comment

  • Missing

    Oct 17, 2018, 07.28 PMby Lano4ka

    Thank you! Great idea.

    • This is a question
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