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Perfect for beginning sewers: Let us show you how easy it is to create your new favorite top – our Asymmetrical Gathered Top that debuted in the Fall in Love pattern collection from the 09/2019 issue. Read on to see all the great diagrams to help you sew this asymmetric top…

Refer to the pattern’s store page for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below).


Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 FABRIC
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 1

STEP 1: PIN THE PIECES TO THE FABRIC
Spread the fabric on your working surface with right facing up. Important: Mark all pieces on the fabric first before cutting out. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Attention: Pieces shown with a broken outline on the pattern layout should be placed face down on the fabric. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances and 3 cm (11/4") hem allowance on the fabric at the edges of the paper pattern pieces.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 2


STEP 2: MARK PIECES CUT TO MEASURE / CUT OUT THE PIECES
Finally, use a hand gauge and chalk to mark the pieces cut to measure (a, b, c) directly on the fabric. Cut out all the pieces.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 3


STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark hem lines and centre front on the right fabric side.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 4


STEP 4: THE INTERFACING
Lay interfacing adhesive side facing up on your working surface. Pin fabric pieces b (cuffs) together with wrong sides facing. Fold piece 7 in half. Pin pieces to interfacing and cut out as illustrated with 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance. Iron interfacing on wrong side of fabric pieces (just to fold line on piece 7).

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 5


STEP 5: TIPS ON WORKING WITH JERSEY
If you are working with a fine knit, use a needle especially designed for stretch fabric or jersey. The ball-point tip will not damage the fabric. Stitch seams at a shallow zigzag setting to keep them stretchy. Use a twin machine needle to stitch hems (see also step 10). Neaten allowance with overlock stitching or with zigzag stitching.

>Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 6


STEP 6: DARTS
Pin bust darts on front and stitch toward points of darts. Knot threads. Press darts down. Stitch darts on back and on lower back piece. Press darts toward centre back.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 7


STEP 7: CROSSWISE SEAMS
Lay lower front pieces right sides together with respective front pieces. Pin seams (seam numbers 1 and 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press down. Stitch lower back to back piece likewise (seam number 3).

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 8


STEP 8: TAB (OUTSIDE)
Fold tab in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn tab and press. Baste open end of tab right sides together with left front between markings.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 9


STEP 9: SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS
Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 4). Pin side seams (seam number 5), matching markings. Stitch seams, catching in tab. Neaten allowances and press open.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 10


STEP 10: HEM
Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Attach the twin needle to your sewing machine. Use two spools of thread to thread the needle. Use the twin needle and work from right side of garment to topstitch edge 2.5 cm (1") wide. You are stitching with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitching.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 11


STEP 11: FRONT EDGES
Neaten allowance at front edges with zigzag or overlock stitching. Press allowance at edges, on the right below curve of casing, to inside. Use the twin needle to topstitch edges 1 cm (3/8") wide, catching allowance.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 12


STEP 12: NECKLINE
Trim allowance at edge of neckline to 1 cm (3/8"). Fold facing strip (a) in half lengthwise with wrong side in and press. Pin strip along edge of neckline so that open edges lie on allowance. Stitch facing strip 1 cm (3/8") wide. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn facing strip to inside, baste. Press edge. Topstitch edge of neckline 7 mm (1/4") wide, catching facing strip.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 13


STEP 13: SLEEVES
Clip allowance at markings on lower sleeve edge. Press allowance to inside between markings and turn half in. Pin and stitch allowance close to edge as illustrated. Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch sleeve seams (seam number 6). Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 14


STEP 14: CUFFS
Fold cuffs (b) lengthwise with wrong side facing in, press. Lay cuffs out fl at again. Press one long edge of each cuff 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to inside. Fold cuff on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch narrow edges together. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn cuffs and press.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 15


STEP 15: STITCH ON CUFFS
Stitch a line of machine basting to each side of seam line to gather lower sleeve edge. Pull bobbin threads to gather edge to fi t edge of cuff. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly. Stitch cuff right sides together with lower sleeve edge. Press allowances onto cuff. Lay inside cuff edge over joining seam, pin and stitch close to edge. Attach three top halves of snaps evenly spaced on left front edge of cuff. Attach bottom halves of snaps on other edge.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 16


STEP 16: SETTING IN SLEEVES
Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. Match sleeve seams and side seams and also markings 7 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste sleeves, easing sleeve cap slightly between the •. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 17


STEP 17: D-RING
Neaten allowance along curved edge of right front and turn to inside. Stretch allowance to fi t edge and baste. Topstitch edge 1 cm (3/8") wide for casing. Slip D-ring into casing. Lay outer tab from inside over D-ring. Attach top halves of snaps on one end of tab as marked. Attach bottom halves of snaps on other end to match.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 18


STEP 18: INSIDE TAB / FASTENER
Press long edge of tab ( c ) in toward centre and press in half lengthwise. Stitch edges together. Neaten ends. Stitch one end of tab to seam allowances of right side seam over crosswise seam. Sew the top half of the sew-on snap at other end. Sew bottom half of snap on left front edge as marked.

Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 FINISHED


FINISHED! The asymmetric gather lends an extravagant drape to this striped jersey shirt with a deep neckline that adds a sexy touch.

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Godet Swing Skirt.

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