Sewing lesson: #110 silk tunic 07/2020

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Sewing lesson: #110 silk tunic 07/2020
By Meghan August 4, 2020 No comments

Sew step-by-step: A lovely feminine tunic top with tie bands and pleats on the peplum. You can even extend this style into a dress! Read on to see all the steps top sew this boho pattern for the season...

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES


Burda Style

 

Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout, placing pieces 23 at 25 at the fold. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the pattern pieces. Cut out the fabric pieces.

 

 

STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS


Burda Style

 

Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer line for front slit to right side of fabric.

 

 

STEP 3: FRONT PANEL SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay side front pieces right sides together with centre front pieces. Pin panel seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto centre front pieces.

 

 

STEP 4: CENTER FRONT SEAM /SLIT


Burda Style

 

Lay fronts right sides together. Stitch centre seam from slit mark to lower edges. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten allowances and press open. Lay allowances at slit to inside on marked lines, baste. Press edges.

 

 

STEP 5: SHOULDER SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 2) and stitch, stitching from marked seam line at neckline. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Cut off allowance at neckline along marked seam line. The edge of the neckline will have binding and therefore needs no allowance.

 

 

STEP 6: BIND EDGE OF NECKLINE


Burda Style

 

Stitch pieces for bias strip together with right sides facing. Press allowances open. Pin bias strip right sides together with edge of neckline, matching seam with centre back. Leave bands hanging equally at slit. Stitch bias strip 7 mm (1/4") wide. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.

 

 

STEP 7: TIE BANDS


Burda Style

 

Fold overhanging bands lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch long edges together 7 mm (1/4") next to fold edge. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim allowances. Leave threads hanging about 10 cm (4") long, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through bands to turn right side out. Press bands. Turn bias strip over edge to inside, turn in and pin so that it overlaps joining seam by just 2 mm (a scant 1/8"). Work from right side to stitch bias strip in line of seam. Knot ends of tie bands.

 

 

STEP 8: SIDE SEAMS / SKIRT PANELS


Burda Style

 

Stitch side seams on upper garment (seam number 3) and side seams on skirt panels (seam number 4). Neaten allowances of seams and press open. Work from right fabric side to lay pleats at upper skirt edge in arrow direction and baste. To gather upper skirt edge, stitch a line of machine basting (stitch setting 4 mm / a good 1/8") to each side of marked seam line between the * .

 

 

STEP 9: STITCH ON SKIRT


Burda Style

 

Pull bobbin threads of stitching for gathering and slip the fabric of the skirt together along the threads to fit to edge of upper garment. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly. Pin skirt right sides together with upper garment, matching side seams. Stitch skirt between lines of gathering. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto upper garment. Remove any visible gathering threads.

 

 

STEP 10: SLEEVES


Burda Style

 

To gather sleeve cap, stitch a line of machine basting to each side of marked seam line between the *. Do not yet pull bobbin threads. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 5). Neaten allowances and press open.

 

 

STEP 11: SETTING IN SLEEVES


Burda Style

 

Pin sleeves into armholes with right sides facing. The following points are important when setting in sleeves: Match markings 7 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seams and side seam. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. To gather sleeve caps, pull bobbin threads to fit sleeve into armhole. Distribute gathers evenly. Baste and stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together.

 

 

STEP 12: HEM / SLEEVE HEM


Burda Style

 

Press hem allowance to inside, turn half in and pin. Stitch hem allowance close to edge. Stitch sleeve hems likewise.

 

 

FINISHED! #110 07/2020


Burda Style

 

This wonderfully romantic cut combines batwing sleeves, a tying band at the neckline and gathers at waistline beautifully. The print of the fabric here has the look of Moroccan tiles for a modern makeover.

 

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