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Exciting details such as an asymmetric fastening and the sleeve darts will be easy to master with our instructions below to make our Asymmetrical Cropped Jacket that debuted in our Wild Thing pattern collection from the August 2019 issue of BurdaStyle magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this jacket.

Refer to the pattern’s store page for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Sewing Lesson Jacket FABRIC
Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 1


STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Place pieces 2 and 5 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tailor’s chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances on the fabric round all edges of the pieces and also 4 cm (1 5/8") hem allowance on front and back. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 2


STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 4, 5 and 6 as illustrated. Pin piece 5 at the fold. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances round the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong fabric side of the respective pattern pieces.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 3


STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Fold back facing piece in half, right side facing in. Lay front facings and sleeve facings right sides together. Pin on pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and marking to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark centre front and hem line on right fabric side. Mark buttonholes later (see step 17).

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 4


STEP 4: CUT OUT THE LINING PIECES
Fold lining in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pieces 3, 7 and 8 to lining as shown in pattern layout. Use tailor’s chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances. Cut out all the pieces. Transfer the pattern outlines to the wrong side of the lining pieces with carbon paper.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 5


STEP 5: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Baste shoulder seams (seam number 1), slightly easing back shoulder edges from neckline to •. Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances open.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 6


STEP 6: SLEEVES / STITCH DARTS
Pin darts at each lower sleeve edge and stitch toward points of darts. Knot ends of thread. Press darts to one side.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 7


STEP 7: STITCH ON SLEEVES
Pin sleeve right sides together with armhole edge, matching markings 2. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Stitch. Press allowances open.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 8


STEP 8: SIDE SEAMS AND SLEEVE SEAMS
Lay front right sides together with back. Pin ends of sleeve inset seams together. Pin side seams and sleeve seams (seam number 4). Stitch seams. Press allowances open.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 9


STEP 9: SLEEVE FACINGS
Join each facing piece to a round. Press allowances open. Pin facings right sides together with lower sleeve edges, matching seams. Stitch. Trim allowances, clip curves. Lay facings down, press allowances onto facings and stitch close to seam. Turn facings to inside, baste. Press edges. Sew facings on at darts and sleeve seams by hand.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 10


STEP 10: FACINGS / SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay front facings right sides together with back facing. Pin shoulder edges together and stitch. Press allowances open.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 11


STEP 11: STITCH FACING
Pin facing right sides together with front pieces and neckline, matching shoulder seams. Stitch facing, stitch at the bottom on marked hem line. Trim allowances, clip curves at several intervals close to line of stitching. Trim hem allowance to just 2 cm (3/4") before each facing end (arrow).

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 12


STEP 12: TURN FACING TO INSIDE / SEW HEM
Turn facing to inside. Baste edges. Turn hem allowance to inside, baste. Press edges. Stitch hem loosely by hand. Sew on inside facing edge at hem.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 13


STEP 13: CONSTRUCT LINING
Stitch shoulder seams on lining pieces, press allowances open. Stitch sleeve darts, press to one side. Press allowance at lower sleeve edges to inside. Stitch sleeves. Press allowances open. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Press allowances open. Press allowance at lower lining edge to inside.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 14


STEP 14: STITCH LINING TO FACING
Pin lining right sides together with facing, matching shoulder seams. Stitch lining, beginning and ending 10 cm (4") above hem edge (arrow). Clip allowance of lining at back neck edge.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 15


STEP 15: SEW ON LINING
Lay lining inside jacket with wrong sides facing. Place sleeve linings inside sleeves of top fabric. Press allowances at facing onto lining. Push up lower lining edge slightly and sew on at hem by hand.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 16


STEP 16: SEW ON REMAINDER OF LINING
Lay extra length of lining down like a small fold. Sew on remaining edges of lining at front facings. Sew on lower edge of sleeve linings at sleeve facings by hand.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 17


STEP 17: MARK BUTTONHOLES
The x for the buttonholes on paper pattern piece 1 are marked for size 36. Remark the x for sizes 38 to 44 according to the neckline and the front edge for your size line. The bottom x is the same for all sizes. Move the top x up and space the other x evenly in between. For all sizes, pin the paper pattern piece to the right front and use straight pins and chalk to transfer the x to the fabric.

Sewing Lesson Jacket STEP 18


STEP 18: STITCH BUTTONHOLES / SEW ON BUTTONS
Work crosswise buttonholes on right front from each marking. Work second buttonhole from the top also on left front for inside button. Gear size of buttonholes to fi t your buttons. Pin jacket closed, matching centers. Mark placement of buttons. Sew buttons on left front. Sew fl at inside button on facing of right front.

Sewing Lesson Jacket 0819 FINISHED


FINISHED! Bring a touch of 60s design into your wardrobe with this asymmetric cropped jacket with the contrast color buttons in a horn look. The generous sleeves are drawn in at the hem with darts for a cool boule effect.

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Men’s Linen Shirt.

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