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Timeless elegance is worth a challenge: Follow our step-by-step instructions to sew this beautiful jacket that debuted in the Lasting Impression pattern collection from the 09/2019 issue. Read on to see all the great diagrams to help you sew this retro jacket…

Refer to the pattern’s store page for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below).


0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson FABRIC
0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 1

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Place pieces 4 and 10 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tailor’s chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances on the fabric round all edges of the pieces and also 4 cm (15/8") sleeve and hem allowance. Then mark the pieces cut to measure (a to c) with a ruler and chalk. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 2


STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3, 8, 9 and 10, pin piece 10 at the fabric fold. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong fabric side of the respective pattern pieces. Iron interfacing on outside sleeve tab pieces only.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 3


STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Fold back facing piece in half, right side facing in. Lay front facings, bands, and tab pieces right sides together. Pin on pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark fold lines and hem lines on the right fabric side. Mark snap fasteners later (see step 18).

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 4


STEP 4: CUT OUT THE LINING PIECES
Fold lining in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pieces 2, 5, 6, 7, 11 and 12 to lining as shown in pattern layout. Use tailor’s chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances. Cut out all the pieces. Transfer the pattern outlines to the wrong side of the lining pieces with carbon paper.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 5


STEP 5: BUST DARTS AND SLEEVE DARTS
Pin bust darts on fronts and stitch toward points of darts. Stitch darts on sleeves likewise. Press all darts down.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 6


STEP 6: BACK / PIPING TAPE
Lay back pieces right sides together. Stitch centre back seam. Lay side pieces right sides together with back. Stitch panel seams (seam number 3). Press allowances of seams open. Baste piping tape on upper back edge so that the flat tape lies on the allowance and piping roll lies next to marked seam line. Use the edge foot (zipper foot) of your sewing machine to stitch close to piping roll. Stitch piping tape to front pieces likewise.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 7


STEP 7: FRONT AND BACK YOKES
Pin back yoke right sides together with back (seam number 4) and stitch. Catch in piping. Press allowances onto yoke. Stitch front yokes to front pieces likewise (seam number 1).

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 8


STEP 8: FRONT BANDS
Baste piping tape face down on front edges so that the fl at tape lies on the allowance. Fold end of tape toward seam allowance at marked hem line. Stitch piping tape. Pin bands right sides together with front pieces and stitch each close to piping roll (seam number 2). Press allowances onto bands.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 9


STEP 9: SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS
Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 5), easing back shoulder edges. Pin forward side seams (seam number 7). Stitch seams, press allowances open.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 10


STEP 10: SLEEVE TABS
Baste piping tape face down on interfaced sleeve tab pieces so that the fl at tape lies on the allowance. Stitch piping tape. Pin non-interfaced tabs to interfaced tabs. Stitch long edges together (edge-foot). Trim allowances. Turn tabs press.

Step 11


STEP 11: SLEEVES
Lay tabs on sleeves with underside facing right side of sleeve. Baste ends between markings. To ease sleeve caps, stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) between the • to each side of marked seam line. Fold sleeves lengthwise. Pin sleeve seams and stitch. Press allowances open.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 12


STEP 12: SETTING IN SLEEVES
Pull bobbin threads of stitching slightly to ease sleeve caps. Pin sleeve into armhole: Match markings 9 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seam with marking on side piece. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste sleeves and stitch. There should be no tucks at the sleeve cap. Press allowances at sleeve cap carefully toward sleeve.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 13


STEP 13: JACKET LINING / FACING
Construct jacket lining as for jacket of top fabric, matching same seam numbers. Press allowances open. Press allowance at lower edge of lining and at lower sleeve edges to inside. Stitch shoulder seams on facings (seam number 6). Press allowances open. Pin facing right sides together with upper lining edge (seam number 11), matching shoulder seams. Stitch. Clip allowances of lining at several intervals. Press allowances toward lining.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 14


STEP 14: LINE JACKET
Pin front lining pieces right sides together with inside edges of bands (seam number 12). Stitch, beginning and ending about 10 cm (4") before bottom edge of band. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances toward lining.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 15


STEP 15: NECKLINE / BOTTOM EDGES OF BANDS
Turn bands out on fold line, pin at top and bottom. Pin facings right sides together with neckline, matching shoulder seams. Baste neckline edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, clip curves at several intervals close to line of stitching. Stitch bottom edges of each band together. Trim allowances at corners at an angle.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 16


STEP 16: HEM / SLEEVE HEM
Turn jacket. Turn bands each to inside on fold line. Place sleeve linings inside sleeves with wrong sides facing. Baste edges, press. Turn hem allowance of jacket and sleeves to inside, baste and stitch loosely by hand. Push up lower lining edge, also on sleeves, and sew on at hem by hand. Lay extra length of lining down like a small fold. Sew on remaining edges of lining at inside edges of bands by hand.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 17


STEP 17: BOWS
Fold strips for bows (a, b) each lengthwise, stitch edges together. Turn strips and press so that seam lies centered. Fold bows as illustrated, finished length of front bow = 14 cm (5 1/2"), of sleeve bows = 12 cm (4 3/4"). Sew ends together. Press lengthwise edges of fabric strips © in toward centre, right side facing out. Lay strips around bows, sew on in back. Sew front bow to right front as illustrated. Sew sleeve bows to sleeve bands.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson Step 18


STEP 18: SEW ON SNAP FASTENERS
Mark placement of snaps centered along band: Space top snap 2 cm (3/4") next to upper edge. Space bottom snap 15 cm (6") above lower edge. Centre third snap in between. Sew top halves of snaps on inside of right band, not exiting needle on right side of garment. Sew bottom halves of snaps on left band to match.

0919 Jacket Sewing Lesson FINISHED


FINISHED! Whether you wear it as part of a two-piece suit or solo with jeans, this sweet style with the piping trim, bows, and tabs at the sleeves is always an elegant choice.

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Asymmetrical Gathered Top.

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