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Delicate tops, feminine dresses: Sometimes nothing should distract from the cut of the pattern – not even a zipper! Here we show how easy it is to install the most common of zippers in BurdaStyle patterns, the invisible zipper…

Step 1

Open the zipper and use your thumbnail to press the spiral so it is smooth and the the seam between the ribbon and the spiral is visible.

Step 2

Place the open zipper with the top of the right side of the fabric. To ensure that the zipper can be precisely sewn in the “seam line” of your garment seam, calculate the distance between the edge of the zipper tape and the edge of the fabric: seam allowance width minus 1 cm width = distance to fabric edge. Now pin the upper zipper end in the calculated distance to the fabric edge.

Step 3

At the marked end of the slit (on the pattern) the zipper length is defined. Place the presser foot (zipper foot) on the zipper so that the spiral lies in the notch to the right of the needle. Sew the zipper from the top to the marked slit, backstitching at both ends.

Step 4

Close the zipper. Place the second zipper tape with the top side on the right side of the fabric. Pin at the top edge.

Step 5

Open the zipper again, and place the presser foot on the upper zipper end so that the spiral lies in the notch to the left of the needle. Sew the zipper from the top down to the bottom notch again, backstitching at both ends.

Step 6

Close the zipper again. Pin the seam under the zipper, right sides together, and pull the loose lower zipper ends towards the seam allowance away from the seam. Sew the seam. Be sure to finish as close to or below the last stitches as possible on the zipper seams. Use a piping foot to get extra close!

Try out an invisible zipper on these new dress patterns below:

Reg Patterns
left: Vintage A-Line Dress; right: Halter Dress

Plus Patterns
left: Plus Size Flounce Sleeve Dress; right: Plus Size Midi Dress

Learn this technique in video form as well as many other BurdaStyle core techniques in our BurdaStyle Teaching Certification Course! Starts again this September 2018.



  • Missing

    Jul 31, 2018, 01.04 PMby mudji

    Is a special zipper foot needed?

    1 Reply
    • Img_0963_large

      Aug 20, 2018, 07.33 PMby TeenyUK

      Yes you do – you need one with the channels for the teeth, really.

  • El_large

    Jul 25, 2018, 09.24 PMby Ellen Hatteland

    Thanks for sharing! Another tip is to iron the zipper spiral before sewing :)

    • This is a question
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