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What better way to spend July then sewing up a swimsuit! Yes, for my July Mash Up I’m making the fabulous Halter Swimsuit pattern from the 07/2019 issue. I’m in love with the front bow as well as the halter neckline – and I have plans to make this my “Bridal Bathing Suit”, meaning that it is sewn in white, but mine is with a limegreen twist. Read on to see my first steps in sewing this swimsuit together.

You see all the brides-to-be on Instagram at their bachelorette parties in white bikinis posing with a giant ring floaty, and I love seeing all the various styles of swimsuits – so when this pattern was debuted I immediately thought this will be by bridal swim look! It’s perfect too since the hotel we’re staying at for the wedding has a pool which will make for perfect photo opportunities.

Mash Up Bathing Suit Pattern


I always love when Burda release a swimsuit, but they rarely publish a one-piece! The halter neckline is super flattering as well as the front bow-tie which is great for fitting.

Lace


This white stretch lace has been in my sewing fabric stash even long before I was even engaged! So this seems like the perfect opportunity to use it up. Since my everything bridal vibe/look needs to have touches of limegreen, I thought to back the lace with a neon green spandex. Luckily these two fabrics were similar in stretch factor so they could be used together. When backing or lining a swimsuit with stretch it is important that both fabrics have similar stretches.

Elastic


Now for the elastic. For the edges and leg hole I always like to use a 3/8" wide elastic as I find that 1/4" is to small and 1/2" is to large.

Tiled Together


Next step was to tile the pattern together. Luckily this was a simple task as swimsuit patterns are small and quick to put together.

Step 1


For swimsuits I usually take a smaller size on the top than on the bottom, so here I blended a size line from size 38 for the top pieces (and start of the side seam on the bottom piece) to size 40 for around the hips.

Step 2


I repeated the same side seam curve on the back piece as well.

Step 3


For the back closure clasp I found one that would perfectly work with the 1" finished edge of the back strap piece #25.

Step 4


I then added seam allowance to all me pieces. The edges to be simple serged together I added 1/4" (the width of my serger stitch), and for edges to be elasticated like the top of the back piece and leg holes I added 3/8" (the width of my elastic).

Step 5


On my fabric I determined the direction of greatest stretch and pinned my pattern pieces down so that the maximum stretch goes across the body.

Step 6


Then to save me from having to pin the layers together later, I simply used the neon green cut pattern pieces as the pieces to cut the lace from!

Step 7


I also determined the direction of greatest stretch for the lace fabric too so I knew which way to lay out my pieces.

Step 8


See, now this saves me a step from having to pin them together later! I did this to all the pieces except the back strap piece #25 – I wanted just to leave that green.

Step 9


The first step was to work on the front bust pieces. I clipped into the notch through both layers along the bottom of the piece. This notch to the side seam as well as the shoulder edge remains open to flip this piece to the right side.

Step 10


At the notch I folded back the allowance from notch to side seam and started to serge together the fronts along the bottom to point, then the point to the shoulder as well as the armhole edge.

Step 11


This is my piece still wrong side out with my serged edges. You can see the piece remains open along the bottom to notch, side seam and shoulder seam.

Step 12


I then flipped my bust piece right side out making sure the allowance at the notch remain down, so I placed a pin to help keep them there.

Step 13


I repeated for my other bust pieces.

Step 14


Now it was time for the top back pieces.

Step 15


Since they were already pinned together from cutting them, I first just had to baste them together around the edges so they would act as one piece. This basting stitch is long stitch just with my regular sewing machine and gets “popped” later once the edges are serged together.

Step 16


Now I grabbed my elastic to elasticate the top edge before I stitched the top side seams together.

Step 17


To elasticate an edge, I start with leaving a bit of elastic (about 1") at the edges for turning and stitching later. So I first serge a little on the elastic and then place my edge wrong side up and slightly pull with one hand only the elastic.

Step 18


This creates a slight gather on the edge.

Step 19


To finish it then, I flip the serged elastic to the wrong side and then using a coverstitch machine (or a twin needle) I topstitch from the right side.

STep 20


This is where the overhanging elastic really comes in handy to help pull through the piece especially when starting the stitch.

Step 21


After the back top piece was elasticated and topstitched, I then trimmed the elastics on either side.

Step 22


Now it was time to stitch the side seams of the top pieces together. I’m doing this in a way that conceals the allowance within the piece so that it is comfortable at the underarm on the inside of the swimsuit. I find for myself this is a sensitive area and it gets irritated especially by raw serging on the inside.

STep 23


With both pieces right side up on my table and together, I first separate the layers of the front bust pieces along the side seam and just pinned the lace layer right sides together with the back side seam.

Step 24


Then I wrapped the green layer of my front side seam piece around and pinned all the layers together. This sandwiches the back side seam in between the two layers of the front. I also made sure that the serging aligned well with the finished top edge of the back.

Step 25


I serged all layers together and then flipped to the right side.

Step 26


This makes for a smooth finish on the wrong side of the swimsuit.

Step 27


I know with the lace you can see the stitched through, but I don’t thinks it’s that big of a deal and I would rather have less bulk on the wrong side especially at the underarm.

Well that completes part 1 of my July Bridal Swimsuit Mash Up! Check back next week when I tackle the bottom of the suit and then put it all together. If you want to follow and sew-along, make sure to download the pattern here.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

1 Comment

  • Smell_the_flower_post_card_large

    Jul 19, 2019, 07.18 PMby aly

    Love the look of the white lace over the solid fabric for a swimsuit. It is going to be so pretty. Can’t wait to see the finished suit. Also happy to see Burda publish a one piece swimsuit pattern. I have subscribed to the magazine for decades and this is the 2nd one piece pattern I can remember seeing.

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