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May_mash_up_main_large

It’s time to (finally) start my May Mash Up! I had one pattern in mind from the 05/2019 issue of BurdaStyle magazine, but once at the fabric store made a decision to go with another plan…

Backstage
Behind the scenes filming in studio in Colorado


So I’m a little late on my Mash Up posting for this month, but all last week I was in studio filming some new sew-alongs! And speaking of sew-alongs, the latest one is now live that you can register for to make a trench dress. Register here for FREE until June 5th.

Pattern


In my last reveal and even in my recent challenge round up post I mentioned that I planned on making the wrap dress from the May issue – but while I was fabric shopping I just couldn’t find a jersey that I loved and would work for that pattern.

Materials


While I was filming in Colorado I made a trip to Joann’s and purchased this embellished olive green cotton which I was actually planning on using for a tank – but back in Toronto I found this orange floral crepe that I fell in love with it. So I bought whatever was left on the bolt and when I got home realized it was the perfect complimentary fabric to match to my green cotton. As I scrolled back though the May 2019 issue patterns I kept going back to the Dress with Side Slits and had the idea to make it into a two-piece! But the thought of sewing darts into the embellished fabric scared me, so I decided to make the skirt portion of my two-piece an elastic waist skirt!

Step 1


Instead of choosing a size I usually sew with for bottoms, I measured my hip circumference and divided it by 4 and added 3/4" – having this measurement in mind I took to my paper pattern to determine the size that would best be suited. In my case it was actually size 40.

Step 2


Then along the top of my skirt pieces I used a curve to smooth out the waistline over the darts and also added seam allowance around all edges. I did this to both edges, and above is the back pictured so I also straightened out the center back seam to cut on the fold.

Step 3


For the length of the skirt I didn’t want it as long as the pattern indicated and also didn’t want slits – so I shortened it to 2" below the slit marking on the pattern.

On the top pattern I also decided to go with size 40 because I wanted the fit a little more loose. I didn’t really need any alterations to the top portion, except making the back a cut 1 on fold instead of 2 – so I simply added my seam allowances around all edges including the hem.

Step 4


For the elastic casing on the skirt, I cut a 3" wide strip of my cotton where the embellishments had stopped.

Step 5


I cut out all my top and bottom pieces on the fold in their respective fabrics.

Step 6


Then interfaced the wrong side of the top facing pieces.

Step 7


The first step on the top was to stitch the shoulder seams together.

Step 8


So I first pinned the seam right sides together, stitched…

Step 10


…and serge-finished the allowances together.

Step 9


I repeated for the other shoulder seam and press my allowances to the back of my top.

Step 11


Next was to do the same to the facing pieces, so I pinned and stitched the shoulder seams right sides together.

Step 12


The the shoulder seam allowances pressed open, I serge-finished the outer edge starting and ending at the back V point.

Step 13


Once the facing was finished around the edges I also tacked the serging tail at the point to prevent unravelling.

Step 14


Now it was time to pin my facing into my neckline. I first matched up the shoulder seams.

Step 15


Then carefully pinned along the point matching up the V.

Step 16


I then stitched together at my seamline and pivoted at the point.

Step 17


After my facing was sewn in place, I grabbed my scissors and graded the seam allowance.

Step 18


Then I pressed my facing to the wrong side – the V came out so well!

Step 19


Next was to sew the side seams of my top, so I first serge-finished each entire sleeve edge/side seam separately and folded the top in half to match up the slit notches and hem.

Step 20


I always use a perpendicular pin to the notch to indicate where I need to stop stitching.

Step 21


My side seam with nice and backstitched slit marking!

Step 22


Next was to press my allowances open, and after I press the side seam allowances open I continued to press the same amount to the sleeve hem’s wrong side.

That concludes part 1 of my May Mash Up, and next week I’ll finish the top and also complete the skirt portion to have my look! I excited to wear these pieces both together and separately.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

2 Comments

  • Photo_on_3-2-17_at_6_09_pm_2_large

    May 17, 2019, 04.32 PMby tessi

    Your mash-up in progress looks very interesting! What is even more intriguing to me is the olive green top you are wearing in the photos! Is that a Burda pattern??? :-)

    1 Reply
    • Meg_healy_burdastyle_90_90_large

      May 17, 2019, 06.16 PMby MegH

      Thank you!! It isn’t a Burda pattern unfortunately – I purchased it from Anthropologie a couple of years ago. I just couldn’t resist, fabulous silhouette isn’t it?

      Best,
      Meg

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