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My jumpsuit is coming along so well, and I’m so happy I went with the corset jumpsuit pattern for my Mash Up! This week I finish up the corseted bodice of my jumpsuit including the back, side seam boning, lining, and straps.

Step 1

Last week after my pattern modifications I constructed the front of my outer corset, and now it was time for the back. so I grabbed my pieces #26 and #27.

Step 2

I first pinned together the princess panels of my back pieces together since the center back edge was going to have a zipper attached later.

Step 3

After stitching, I pressed my seam allowances open. It is key here to make sure that the pieces don’t accidentally get flipped before sewing the side seams – since the top shape is quite similar to the waistline.

Step 4

View from the wrong side nice and pressed, and I didn’t have to worry about finishing the fabric edges since the bodice of this jumpsuit is fully lined!

Step 5

I next grabbed my sewn front bodice and pinned the side seams, right sides together.

Step 6

Now depending on the type of boning you are using, you may need to construct the side seam differently – like if you are adding a casing. But I’m using boning already in a casing with edging that I can sew to the side seam allowance.

Step 7

To pin my boning in place, I measured my seam allowance down from the top and bottom waistline edge – cutting to fit in bet ween these marks. Since my seam allowance is 1/2", each boning measured 1" less than my side seam in length.

Step 8

I picked up my bodice so my side seam allowance was lifted from the bodice and I was able to pin my boning edge to the allowance.

Step 9

I made sure that the boning was nice and centered on my side seams and I only pinned along one side since once it is sewn I can easily sew up the other side!

Step 10

To get nice and close to my boning, I switched to my piping foot on my sewing machine and sewed up each side.

Step 11

My boning!

Step 12

The top and bottom of the boning will be secured by the lining seam on the top, and the waistline seam on the bottom.

Step 13

Now it was time for the straps before I construct and attach my lining. I pinned each strap piece right sides together, sewed, and then flipped to the right side using a strap turner.

Step 14

Using the markings on the pattern piece #24 – I pinned each sewn strap in place.

Step 15

Then I sewed to the bodice inside my seam allowance width.

Step 16

Now I grabbed all my lining pieces and sewed together just as I did for the front outer bodice.

Step 17

I left all my edges unfinished and pressed all allowances open to reduce bulk.

Step 18

I left my lining pattern pieces pinned right up until I was ready to use them because the side front piece can be easily flipped and sewed to the wrong edge.

Step 19

All pressed open!

Step 20

Then I sewed the back bodice lining pieces together and attached to the front.

Step 21

Next I grabbed my outer bodice and pinned the lining, right sides together to the top edge from center back to center back.

Step 22

I made sure my boning wasn’t poking out for this seam – and for this section I actually switched back to my piping foot to get nice and close.

Step 23

And after I sewed this top seam, I under-stitched the allowances to the lining.

Step 24

The under-stitching also extra secures the strap without topstitching!

Step 25

At this point I also pressed the seam allowance along the waistline of my lining to the wrong side.

Step 26

View from the wrong side.

Step 27

View from the right side!

Step 28

Really loving this jumpsuit so far and at this point I was also able to try on the bodice and it was a PERFECT fit! I can always count on size 38 for bodices.

Step 29

I was also a little skeptical about the brown lining, but it totally works and compliments the print! Also can’t beat using up fabric bits you already have – this fabric was actually originally used for this top as the flounce and straps.

If you want to sew along make sure to download the pattern here and post your finished jumpsuit to our projects page.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature


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