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It took me a while to decide which pattern from the May issue I wanted to sew for my Mash Up since I literally loved so many patterns in the issue – I mean, all those dresses are just amazing. But since I already have a new fabulous dress from my last Mash Up I ended up going with the jumpsuit pattern. Read on to see my first steps in sewing this corseted jumpsuit…

Mash Up PATTERN


I LOVE a good jumpsuit – and this one with the pocket and pleated bottoms topped with a fitted corset had me as soon as I turned the page.

Materials


For the fabric I decided once again to look to my stash, and I literally can’t even remember the last time I went to the fabric store, yay! I was saving this woven fabric to the left even since my aunt brought it home for me from her trip to Thailand. The colors in this print are gorgeous and I loved hearing about how she saw these fabrics hand woven, so I know I needed to sew something special with this fabric. The contrast from the bottoms of the jumpsuit to the top in the pattern had me inspired to use this woven fabric as my corset and bottom hem bands similar to the photography in the variation of the jumpsuit pattern.

Then for the contrasting fabric to compliment the print I decided to use leftover fabric from our Dress for Success Sew-Along that I used to sew the plus size dress! It was the perfect pink to use and the fabric had enough weight to it to suit the bottoms of the jumpsuit. It also has a bit of widthwise stretch in it, which equals mega comfort.

Step 1


For fitted bottom patterns I need to sew a size 40 – but for tops I always sew a size 38. So I graded along the bottom pattern pieces from waist to hip!

Step 2


Along the crotch curves, at the base where the curve really starts I blended a curve from size line 38 to 40. Then I used the 40 size line for the inseam of the bottoms.

Step 3


For the side seams I used my curve to blend a nice smooth transition between size 38 at the waist and size 40 at the hip.

Step 4


Once I did all my alterations, I added 1/2" seam allowance to all my pattern pieces and started to cut out. In my woven print, I cut out the center front bust pieces as well as the center back piece #26. I cut the side bodice pieces #27 & #23 in the pink, since it had a slight stretch in it.

Step 5


Then I cut all my bottom pieces, pockets, and straps in the pink.

Step 6


The corseted bodice of this jumpsuit is also lined, so I cut all the bodice pieces in this brown silky lining fabric also found in my stash.

Step 7


Every corset piece I cut in my woven fabric I stabilized with fusible interfacing. The pattern called for ALL bodice pieces to be interfacing, but I didn’t want to lose the stretch in my side pink cut bodice pieces, so I didn’t interfacing those.

Step 8


The first thing to do was to construct the bodice, so I grabbed my bust pieces #24 & #25.

Step 9


I matched up the center notch and pinned the curves together along the horizontal seam.

Step 10


I then carefully stitched together at my 1/2" seam allowance, sewing over the pins, then pressed my seam allowances open using a press ham to get a nice shape. I usually don’t sew over my pins, but in these cases I sew slow to make sure opposing curves are coming together accurately.

Step 11


Next was to construct the lower portion of my bodice, so I grabbed pieces #21 & #22. Note: the pattern indicated to cut two of the center front piece #21, but since I didn’t want to break up the print, I cut on fold instead.

Step 12


Then I pinned the seams right sides together making sure the prints matched up! I was also very careful when cutting out these pieces to print match.

Step 13


I stitched and pressed my seam allowances open.

Step 14


Next was to attach the bust pieces to the lower bodice corset.

Step 15


I carefully pinned the cups to the lower bodice matching up the lower notch in piece #25 to the seam.

Step 16


I used lots of pins and took my time!

Step 17


For accuracy, I sewed slowly and left my pins in again.

Step 18


Perfection!

Step 19


For these seams I trimmed the seam allowances down to 1/4" and pressed open.

Step 20


View from the wrong side!

Step 21


I love the bodice so far, and I held it up to my chest and fit wise – so far so good.

Step 22


Next was to attach the side pieces, so for the front I grabbed piece #23.

Step 23


Then I pinned my side pieces to my center pieces, right sides together making sure to not accidentally pin the side seam instead of the princess seam to my center front pieces. The side seam is shorter in length.

Step 24


I stitched together and again pressed my seam allowances open.

That completes part 1 of my May Mash Up! Super excited to complete and wear this jumpsuit, it is going to be so awesome with the print and the pink. Sew along with me and make sure to download the pattern here.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

4 Comments

  • Missing

    May 26, 2018, 12.29 PMby Steen67

    Any idea what the cup size is as printed? B?

  • Missing

    May 15, 2018, 01.15 PMby Lvirgil

    Love the print that you used for the top part. I cannot wait to see the finished product!

  • Burdalogo2_large

    May 11, 2018, 01.14 AMby Evmorales

    Wow, Meg! that print is spectacular! Can’t wait the final product.

  • Missing

    May 10, 2018, 04.07 PMby Joss55

    Love that print!

    • This is a question
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