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It was really hard to decide on a pattern to Mash Up from the 04/2018 issue since there were so many great patterns – and we also just launched our April 2018 Lookbook so you can shop ALL the patterns from the latest issue. After flipping through the magazine going back and fourth between possible Mash Up patterns, I went with our Ruffled Collared Dress since I already had the perfect fabric, and it is petite sized! Read on to see my first steps in sewing this dress…

Pattern


This summer I have several weddings to attend – and as a wedding guest (who sews) I need to show up in a cute dress that I sewed up. This dress has the cutest ruffled collar that I instantly fell in love with, and the fact that it was petite size was the icing on the cake. For my Mash Up variation, I’m trying to sew this pattern without the front panel to reduce bulk – but still keeping the pockets.

Materials


Now let’s talk about the fabric! I’m all about using up what I have, and decided to use up scrap white fabric from this pattern play project. And right now I’m loving mint green and gold together, and was just sent this metallic polka dot double gauze Embrace from Shannon Fabrics. I’m also all about that metal zipper life, so to bring some edge to the dress and to compliment the gold, I’m inserting a metal zipper into the back of the dress instead of the invisible zipper noted in the instructions. Then I’m also playing the idea of adding a gold button to the center of the front bodice where the ruffles meet.

Step 1


I tiled together all the pattern pages and added seam allowances to size 19. Just remember to extend those pleat lines to the cutting line!

Step 2


The pocket pieces are draft yourself and the dimensions are given within the cutting out section of the sewing instructions.

Step 3


I cut both skirt pieces in the mint gauze fabric, omitting piece #6 all together. So I only had two skirt pieces, one for the front on fold, and one of the back cut two.

Step 4


The ruffle piece is also a draft it yourself piece, but instead of using up paper I drafted right on my fabric. Now the pattern indicated to finished the bottom edges of the ruffle before attaching to the bodice, so to save myself a step and better stabilized my double gauze, I cut my ruffle on the fold. This meant that the lower edge of my ruffle would be double faced and finished with a fold! My ruffle was 33" long and I actually made it a tad less wide at 3 1/2". Note: you will need two of these ruffle pieces, one for the left bodice and one for the right.

Step 5


I cut all the bodice pieces in my white cotton as well as the smaller pocket piece.

Step 6


The first step was the mark and sew the darts! I used yellow chalk tracing paper so that it showed up on my white fabric.

Step 8


I then stitched the front darts, right sides together and pressed upwards. I usually always press downwards when it comes to horizontal darts, but the dart end intake shape matched the side seam when pressed up.

Step 9


Next was to sew and press the small darts on the top of the back pieces.

Step 10


Before I sewed the side seams, I serge-finished the edges and pinned right sides together.

Step 11


I then stitched the side seams together and pressed open in preparation for the sleeve!

Step 12


Next to sew the small darted seam on the top of the sleeve.

Step 13


Once I sewed these sleeve darts, I serge-finished the raw edges together and pressed to one side. Note: this dart is covered by the ruffle!

Step 14


Since I already stitched the side seams of my bodice, I had to sew the sleeve seams too.

Step 15


I sewed the short seam of each sleeve and then serge-finished the allowances together.

Step 16


To make it easier to pin and sew the sleeve into the bodice, I flipped the sleeve to the right side and first matched up the sleeve seam with the underarm point of the bodice’s side seam. I then continued to pin the front armhole to the front bodice and back armhole to the back bodice. Note: the notches are on the front pieces!

Step 17


Stitch together!

Step 18


To finish the armhole before gathering and attaching the ruffle, I serge-finished the allowances together.

Step 19


Now it’s ruffle time! But I’ll have to save that for my next week’s Mash Up post.

Sew along with me and download the digital pattern here and if you missed my March Mash Up reveal you can check it out here!

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

2 Comments

  • Burdalogo2_large

    Apr 16, 2018, 02.17 PMby Evmorales

    I am so excited to say that I started mine yesterday. I finished the bodice, can’t wait to start on the skirt. It was the best weekend…a sewing weekend. I took a break from sewing for my wedding. I made two blouses and started this dress! yay!

  • 03003e1f_2_large

    Apr 15, 2018, 02.52 PMby hello Itsme

    quality! love your tutorials honey =)

    • This is a question
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