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So my last Mash Up didn’t turn out as great as I wanted, but I have a feeling this one will make up for it! I’m sewing up these pants from the March 2019 issue, and I even did a test fit and sew before diving into my fashion fabric. Read on to see how I sewed these summery pants together…

Pants Pattern


This pattern checks off the “culotte” category for my capsule collection for the year. I love the pockets and the fit of the pants getting wider below the hipline. I tend to not like belts on pants, so for my version I’m omitting the integrated belt loops on the pockets and the belt.

Fabric


When I went out fabric shopping for these pants I already knew I was searching for a banana leaf print. I went to several stores and most were out of stock until I stumbled upon a store that had JUST enough to make these culottes (shortened) with a matching crop top. When I saw the speck of yellow in the print I immediately thought I wanted to remake my trench coat in yellow to match. So I purchased enough of this yellow twill to make the full length of this trench coat.

Step 1


I already sewed a test pair of these pants and they were perfect, so I was confident in cutting out in my banana leaf linen since I had so little and absolutely none to spare! I used a hip curve to blend from size 38 at the waist to 40 at the hipline around the zipper notch, and then I did the same at the crotch blending the size lines together from the crotch point of size 40 to the center front line of size 38.

Step 3


For the pocket I trimmed off the top portion to omit the integrated belt loop.

Step 2


The waistband pieces are draft-if-yourself, but from my test pants I wanted these ones to have a slightly narrower waistband so I trimmed down 2" off each.

Step 4


Before I started sewing I had to mark my darts. I used a tracing wheel and paper to mark the dart legs on both my front and back pieces.

Step 5


I also clipped into my pocket placement notch along the front pant waistline.

Step 6


In order for me to fit both of my pant pieces, I had to chop off a good 10" from my hemline. So to add some length back on I used scraps to cut cuffs – I had JUST enough.

Step 7


I didn’t have enough fabric to fully line the pockets, so I cut strips to finish off the pocket openings.

Step 8


To start my pants I grabbed my pocket pieces and my freshly cut and interfaced strips.

Step 9


I pinned my strips right sides together with the pocket openings…

Step 10


…and stitched. Then I trimmed my allowances and pressed. I also serge-finished the outer un-sewn edge if the strip.

Step 11


Before I flipped to the wrong side I under-stitched my allowances towards the strip and also trimmed the overhanging edges to match the pocket lines at the side and top.

Step 12


To finish the pocket, I serge-finished the bottom and side edge and pressed my seam allowance to the wrong side.

Step 13


But before I stitched my pocket on I needed to sew my darts!

Step 14


Then I pinned my pressed pocket to my front pants aligning the notch with the finished pocket opening edge at the waistline. I pinned all down in place.

Step 15


From the right side, I top-stitched the pocket down in place close to the pressed edges pivoting at the corner.

Step 16


Next was to stitch my darts in the back pieces.

Step 17


But before I stitched all my pant seams I needed to serge-finish all my edges to prevent fraying.

Step 18


I placed a pin at the side seam of my right front pant piece to indicate the zipper placement so I wouldn’t stitch up that side seam. for the other leg I pinned both my inseam and side seams, right sides together. Then for my right pant leg I only pinned together my inseam.

Step 19


My seams all pinned and ready to be stitched together! I love how easily pants can come together.

Step 21


I pressed open all my seam allowances and kept my left leg wrong side out.

Step 22


I then inserted my right leg inside my left matching up the crotch points and continued to pin together the entire crotch curve from waistline to waistline.

Step 23


After stitching my crotch seam together I serge-finished all my allowances together.

Step 24


Then I separated both leg pieces and left it wrong side out.

Step 25


Now it’s time for my waistband! Note the longer piece is for the front.

Step 26


I stitched my one waistband seam right sides together and pressed the allowances open. I also pressed one long edge’s allowance to the wrong side.

Step 27


Top attach the waistband I pinned the one un-pressed long edge right sides together with my waistline matching up side seams and centers.

Step 28


I then stitched together and pressed my seam allowance up towards the waistband.

Step 29


Now that the waistband was stitched into place it was time for the invisible zipper!

Step 30


I first pressed out my zipper teeth and aligned the top zipper stop with the middle of my waistband.

Step 31


Using my invisible zipper foot, I stitched one side of my zipper to the side seam of my pants sewing as close as I could to the bottom.

Step 32


Once one side was stitched into place, I pinned my other zipper to the back of my pants.

Step 33


Then I flipped my waistband over my zipper tape right sides together and stitched to the bottom of my waistband making sure to catch my pressed up allowance at the bottom.

Step 35


I clipped the corners and flipped to the right side.

Step 34'


I also sewed the lower portion of my side seam from the zipper end to my hem.

Step 36


Using lot’s of pins I coved my waistline seam with the pressed under allowance of my waistband…

Step 37


…And from the front I stitched in the ditch to hold the waistband in place.

Step 37


It’s looking so good!

Step 39


Also love when I catch everything evenly on the wrong side.

Next week I’ll complete the cuffs and reveal this look with a matching crop top using this pattern! I’m already feeling so much better about this project than my last.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

3 Comments

  • 20181110_152547_large

    Mar 27, 2019, 11.58 AMby DIADEM11

    Glad u r doing this pant! I will def’ly need the guidance.

  • Joan-smith-2016-headshot-by-lamonte-g-photography-square-img_9989-edit_1__large

    Mar 26, 2019, 02.45 PMby iwannasew2

    Meg, these are amazing! And I bet you didn’t mess up at all. :-). Thank you for providing these detailed pictures. Gives me something to look forward to! Thank you! :-) -Joan.

  • Missing

    Mar 25, 2019, 10.51 AMby knitgirl16

    Inspired. I need to make those pants. Thanks for the tips.

    • This is a question
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