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After finally getting over my sewing slump, I have continued to work on my Trench Coat! This project is coming together very well and I’m loving the ivory and beige combination more and more as I continue to work on it. Read on to see my next steps in sewing this coat including the collar and facing…

Step 1


Last week I ended off with sewing the storm flap pieces together and now it’s time to attach them to the coat inside the shoulder seam. So I pinned the right shoulder seam (on the wrong side), right sides together first serge-finishing the edges.

Step 2


Then I stitched the seam together and press open my seam allowances and flipped to the right side. I grabbed my sewn storm flap and pinned wrong side to right side with my coat matching up the un-sewn shoulder seams and the sewn shoulder seams together.

Step 3


I shifted the storm flap out of the way on the side that had the shoulder seams sewn and stitched the coat side seams right sides together.

Step 4


Then I was able to pin the armholes together.

Step 5


I basted the armholes together as well as the one un-sewn shoulder edge inside the seam allowance.

Step 6


Then I pinned my other coat side seam, right sides together sandwiching the storm flap in-between the two layers.

Step 7


Finishing my side seam edges separately first, I stitched together and press my seam allowances open and flipped to the right side. Looking good so far!

Step 9


Now it’s collar time! I grabbed all my collar pieces including both the upper and stand pieces for both the under and top collar.

Step 10


I pinned each collar stand piece to the collar right sides together along the curve.

Step 11


Then I stitched them together and pressed my seam allowances open. I had to do some clipping in order for my collar to lay nice and flat.

Step 12


Next was to pin each sewn collar piece right sides together from point to point.

Step 13


I then stitched together, graded my seam allowances, flipped to the right side, pressed and topstitched around the edges and basted the open lower edges of the collar together.

Step 14


Using my notches as a guide I pinned my collar to the neckline of my coat also matching up center backs.

Step 15


I made sure the under collar (ivory) was facing down on my coat.

Step 16


I also had to work around the lower collar shape and use lot’s of pin to secure in place – then I basted to my neckline inside the seam allowance.

Step 17


Next I grabbed my facing pieces and note I did not interface these facings as I didn’t want them to have much structure.

Step 18


I stitched the shoulder seams together, pressed allowances open and then serge-finished around the outer edge.

Step 19


Now it was time to sew my facing pieces to my coat! With the collar already basted to the neckline, I started pinning my facing right sides together with my coat starting at the hem.

Step 20


I continued to pin my facing matching up the shoulder seams and pinning around the notches.

Step 21


I used lot’s of pins!

Step 22


After stitching my facing around I clipped and graded my seam allowances.

Step 23


Then after a lot of pressing and “rolling” the seams – I flipped my facing to the inside.

Step 24


This revealed the awesome notched collar!

Step 25


At the hem I reopened my facing and pressed up the hem allowance after serge-finishing the edge.

Step 26


Then working from the right side I topstitched the hem in place.

Step 27


I then folded back my facing and pinned to the inside at the hem – I’m going to hand stitch this in place later.

Step 28


Starting at the hem stitching, I topstitched around the entire front opening.

Step 29


I really like contrast topstitching that brings in the beige!

Topstitching


Now all that’s left are the sleeves and the belt – stay tuned for next week when I finish up this Trench Coat.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature

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