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I know it’s the middle of the month, but I’ve been in a little of a sewing rut which you can listen about in the next episode of Sew & Tell airing February 21st. As I knew it would, starting to sew this Trench Coat from the 02/2018 issue of BurdaStyle magazine got me feeling better and now I’m excited to finish this coat to become one step closer to my capsule collection! I talked about the plan in my last Mash Up reveal, and in this part 1 post I get the pattern ready, and sew the welt pockets as well as the storm flap piece.

Trench Coat Pattern

In my grand plan (you can see it at the end of this post) I wanted to include a trench coat – so when I saw this pattern in the latest issue I knew it had to be the trench! I love the open front, the big welt pockets, and of course the storm flap.

Step 1

I was going back and fourth between what fabric to use for this trench coat as I was originally thinking of a printed canvas or something – but then I thought I wanted something more draped. I liked the idea of something bright, and I had some sample yardage of this apparel weight Pendleton Wool in Ivory so I had the idea of using that. Plus the weather has been horrific in Toronto lately and a trip to the fabric store seemed undesirable to me, plus I love using up what I already have! I didn’t have quite enough to cut out the entire trench and I liked the idea of some fabric panelling so I used some beige twill leftover from the Sew-Along I just filmed. Plus, I do love beige and ivory together! The contrast in weights and drape will also create an interesting effect, so I decided to go with it.

Step 2

The trench coat pattern is super long (like it went to my ankles!) so I decided to shorten it lucky number 13" – this had the coat bending about at my knees and that was good for me. Cropping it that much meant I could omit the back vent too!

Step 3

I started with cutting out the front and back body pieces in my wool, and I cut my usual size 38 in this pattern.

Step 4

I also had enough to cut my sleeve pieces, under collar, and pocket pieces too.

Step 5

In my beige twill I cut all my facing pieces, my top collar, the storm flap, as well as the welts and belt pieces.

Note: this pattern is also meant to be lined, but since I wanted it as a more lightweight/spring coat I wanted to leave it unlined, plus I may or may not have had any lining fabric on hand (make it work!)

Step 6

So I cut all my draft-it-yourself pieces in the beige twill including the belt loops!

Step 7

My piece stack before sewing!

Step 8

The first step was to sew the darts in the front pieces, so I placed a pin in the dart tip to mark them on the wrong side of the pieces.

Step 9

To mark my darts, I first drew when the dart tip pin went into the fabric and then using a rule I drew lines up to the notches along the edge of my piece.

Step 10

I pinned my dart right sides together from the tip to the edge…

Step 11

Stitched, and then pressed the dart intake towards the center front. Then I repeated for the other side.

Step 12

Next up were the welt, so I first folded them right sides together pinned the short sides together.

Step 13

I stitched the short seams together and then clipped the corner and turned to the right side and pressed.

Step 14

Using the same pin in point method with a fabric pen I marked my welt openings on my front pieces. Then I placed my sewn welts on my front piece aligning with the marked line.

Step 15

I placed the welt at the side of the line closest to the center front.

Step 16

Then I grabbed my pocket lining piece and pinned it over my welt. Note the seam allowances of the pocket pouch piece will extend over each side of the welt.

Step 17

To secure the pieces I stitched them all down from welt side to welt side.

Step 18

Next I grabbed my pocket piece and aligned it with the other side of my welt placement line.

Step 19

I stitched it to my front piece starting and stopping about 3/16"- 1/4" from the first seam.

Step 20

Being very careful, I cut the welt line open and then clipped diagonally to each seam corner.

Step 21

Then I flipped the pocket pieces to the wrong side through my opening and pressed my welt piece upwards towards my side seam.

Step 22

From the wrong side I pinned my pocket pieces, right sides together along the outer curve.

Step 23

I decided to just serge the seam together instead of sewing it first with my single needle machine.

Step 24

I did though secure my serging tails at each end of the pocket.

Step 25

From the right side I gave everything a really good press, and then I pinned each side of my welt down…

Step 26

…and stitched down in place. Repeated all welt steps for other front piece.

Step 27

Now that the welt pockets were done I moved onto the back! Since I’m not lining my trench coat, I serge-finished each back edge then stitched the seam together and pressed open.

Step 28

Next I grabbed my storm flap pieces (one front and one back).

Step 29

I first serge-finished the side seams, stitched together, pressed allowances open, and then serged the bottom/front edge.

Step 30

To finish the bottom edge, I pressed up my allowance…

Step 31

…and topstitched in place from the right side.

Step 32

Then I pinned and sewed my one shoulder seam together and press the seam allowances open.

Well that completes part 1 of my February 2019 issue Mash Up! Next week I post about sewing the collar, side seams and sleeves! Sew along with me and download the pattern here.

Happy Sewing!

Meg Healy Blog Signature


  • Image_large

    Feb 16, 2019, 07.47 PMby chriscor

    Thanks for the incentive to get started! I saw the pattern and fell in love, too.

  • El_large

    Feb 15, 2019, 09.46 PMby Ellen Hatteland

    This is a great pattern, and I will love to try it!

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