Linen is such a great fabric for summer, truly unbeatable - especially when it's hot out. It dissipates heat very well, is breathable, and absorbs a lot of moisture! You would think linen is just associated with wrinkles, but when combined with cotton it is the ideal textile. Read on to learn more about sewing with linen and the perfect selection of patterns to use...
Linen, when it's wrinkled - it's good!
Ironing: Linen can withstand a lot of heat when ironing (iron setting, 3), but should always be moistened, or ironed under a damp cloth or with steam. After washing, ironing becomes easier.
Interfacing: Vlieseline G 785 is ideal for dresses and blouses, and Vlieseline G 700 or G 740 for jackets and coats. Vlieseline G 785 is ironed dry, Vlieseline G 700 and G 740 need steam. If the garment is to be washed later at more than 40 degrees, Vlieseline F 220 is recommended. This insert is ironed dry (iron setting silk) and tolerates washing temperatures up to 95 degrees.
Sewing: For fine linen, use a fine needle (needle size 70 or 80) and for coarse linen, a thicker needle (needle size 90) can be used. Sew with commercially available polyester sewing thread. The stitch size depends on the fabric thickness. As a rule of thumb: sew fine linen with small stitches (stitch length approx. 2 mm), coarsely woven linen with larger stitches (stitch length approx. 3 mm).
Laundry: Depending on the finish, a lower washing temperature should be selected: for colorful linen 60 degrees, and for easy-care linen 40 degrees in a gentle cycle. Delicate items such as blazers, coats and suits should be cleaned with care. They can lose their shape when washed.
Extra tip: To ensure that the fabric does not shift at the seams when the linen is loosely woven (hemstitch effect), iron approx. 2 cm wide fusible strips of Vlieseline G 785 onto the edges after cutting.
Overall, linen is a great fabric can can hanfle a lot of wear, heat and pressing - basically a sewist's dream. Here are some patterns you can use...
A perfect choice for a cool evening and for days at the office. The masculine style of the blazer includes a shawl lapel and pocket flaps sewn into the waist seam.
If you don’t have a fresh-looking linen blazer in your wardrobe yet, this one with the streamlined casual touch and the longer yoke shape is a must.
You will be won over for this look from the first wearing. This ultra-cosy jumpsuit features overcut shoulders and cropped trouser legs for extra comfort.
This look makes an impression as a dress as easily as you see it does here as a long blouse. The breezy linen style with horn buttons features a light gathering at the panel seam line that softly defines at the waist.
The perfect holiday jumpsuit should include details like this style with a comfortable, relaxed yoke design and sweet details. This look with the ruffled sleeve armscye and an elastic casing at the waistline checks all the boxes beautifully.
A fresh twist on the classic blazer. This style has a shawl lapel and diagonal flap pockets as well as a stylish sleeve feature that lets you gather them with drawstring casings.
Men's Linen Trousers
A great look with the linen shirt: relaxed menswear trousers with tapered legs, a buttoning placket and slant pockets.
One part maritime and one part high fashion. The faux wrap skirt with the relaxed slant pockets in front also includes patch pockets in the back. We pulled a cording through the belt loops for the finishing touch.
Here is the ideal mix of sporty and elegant. The wide shorts with the wide waistband and self-made belt is sure to be a favourite for the summer wardrobe.
The fit of these trousers is wonderfully comfortable while also effectively shaping a great figure. The airy style features seam pockets and a wide waistband. If a linen is too see-through for you, a gabardine or lightweight wool can also be great choices.