Sewing Lesson: #128 Men's Linen Shirt 07/2019
1
Jul
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the selvages in to the centre of the fabric, right side facing in. Pin pieces 1, 2, 3 and 5 at the fabric fold to cut out. Fold the fabric in half to cut out the remaining pieces. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the layout. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances at the edges of the pieces. Finally, mark the piece cut to measure (a) directly on a piece of remaining fabric. Cut out all the fabric pieces on the marked lines.
STEP 2: THE INTERFACING Fold interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Fold piece 6 in half lengthwise. Pin on pieces 5 and 6. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at edges (on piece 6 as illustrated). Pin on fabric piece a. Cut out the pieces. Also cut strips of inter facing 3 cm (1 1/4") wide, equal in length to front plastron edge. Iron interfacing on wrong side of respective fabric pieces. Iron 3 cm (1 1/4") strips of interfacing on outside half of right and left plastron piece from fold line (step 5).
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Lay pieces with interfacing right sides together again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
STEP 4: BACK PLEAT Fold back piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch pleat lines together from upper edges to pleat arrow. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press pleat so that seam lies at centre back (= inverted pleat). Topstitch pleat from right side of fabric as marked.
STEP 5: FRONT PLASTRON Fold plastron pieces in half, right side facing in. Pin and stitch lower and side edges together. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn pieces. Baste edges, press. Work crosswise buttonholes on left half of plastron from marking. Gear size of buttonholes to fi t your buttons. Pin left plastron piece to right plastron piece, matching centers. Baste lower edges together.
STEP 6: STITCH FRONT PLASTRON Trim allowance of front along curve of plastron to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten. Use basting thread to transfer seam line to right side of fabric. Pin plastron to front with wrong side facing right side and matching centers. Baste outer edge (seam number 1) and stitch close to edge.
STEP 7: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back.
STEP 8: CONSTRUCT STAND COLLAR Press allowance at lower edge of non-interfaced collar piece to inside. Pin collar pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, clip curves. Turn collar. Baste edges, press.
STEP 9: STITCH ON STAND COLLAR Pin interfaced collar piece right sides together with edge of neckline (seam number 5), matching markings with shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, clip curves and press onto collar. Baste inside collar piece along joining seam. Topstitch stand collar closely round edges, catching inside edge. Work a crosswise buttonhole on left edge of collar.
STEP 10: SLEEVE VENT Slash lower sleeve edge on marked line and clip 5 mm (3/16") at an angle at end as illustrated. Press cut edge narrowly to inside, turn in and stitch.
STEP 11: SLEEVE PLACKET Fold the placket piece in half, right side facing in. Stitch pointed end from crosswise line as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Clip interfaced half of placket close to last stitch (arrow). Turn placket. Press edges. Press allowance at edge of non-interfaced half of placket to inside.
STEP 12: STITCH ON PLACKET Pin interfaced edge of placket to open edge of sleeve vent and stitch. Clip seam allowance of sleeve close to last stitch (arrow). Press seam allowances onto placket. Baste non-interfaced half of placket along joining seam. Press placket. Work from right side of sleeve to topstitch placket close to joining seam, catching inside edge. Topstitch close to other edge of placket as far as crosswise line.
STEP 13: STITCH POINTED END OF PLACKET Baste pointed end of placket to sleeve from marked crosswise stitching line, stitch close to edge and on crosswise line. Work buttonhole lengthwise from marking. Lay pleats at lower sleeve edge in arrow direction, baste.
STEP 14: STITCH ON SLEEVE Pin sleeve right sides together with edge of armhole, matching markings 3 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Stitch sleeve. Trim allowances to 1 cm (3/8"), neaten together and press onto front and back. Topstitch sleeve inset seam 7 mm (1/4") wide, catching allowances.
STEP 15: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS Lay fronts right sides together with with back, fold sleeves lengthwise. Pin sleeve seams and side seams (seam number 4), matching sleeve inset seams. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.
STEP 16: CUFFS Fold cuff piece in half lengthwise, right side facing out, press. Unfold cuff again and pin right sides together with lower sleeve edge, stitch. Press seam allowances onto cuff. Press allowance at other long edge of cuff to inside.
STEP 17: CUFFS Fold cuff on pressed crease, right side facing in. Stitch across ends. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn cuff to inside on pressed crease, baste at joining seam. Press. Work from right fabric side of sleeve to topstitch cuff closely round all edges, catching inside half at joining seam. Work a buttonhole crosswise at front edge of each cuff.
STEP 18: STITCH HEM/SEW ON BUTTONHOLES Press hem allowance to inside, turn in and baste. Stitch a narrow hem. Sew on buttons.
FINISHED! This deep blue linen shirt with its plastron and mother of pearl buttons is all about relaxed comfort. The sleeves are finished with a meticulous cuff hem that leaves enough width so that they can also be casually rolled.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the selvages in to the centre of the fabric, right side facing in. Pin pieces 1, 2, 3 and 5 at the fabric fold to cut out. Fold the fabric in half to cut out the remaining pieces. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the layout. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances at the edges of the pieces. Finally, mark the piece cut to measure (a) directly on a piece of remaining fabric. Cut out all the fabric pieces on the marked lines.
STEP 2: THE INTERFACING Fold interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Fold piece 6 in half lengthwise. Pin on pieces 5 and 6. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at edges (on piece 6 as illustrated). Pin on fabric piece a. Cut out the pieces. Also cut strips of inter facing 3 cm (1 1/4") wide, equal in length to front plastron edge. Iron interfacing on wrong side of respective fabric pieces. Iron 3 cm (1 1/4") strips of interfacing on outside half of right and left plastron piece from fold line (step 5).
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Lay pieces with interfacing right sides together again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
STEP 4: BACK PLEAT Fold back piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch pleat lines together from upper edges to pleat arrow. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press pleat so that seam lies at centre back (= inverted pleat). Topstitch pleat from right side of fabric as marked.
STEP 5: FRONT PLASTRON Fold plastron pieces in half, right side facing in. Pin and stitch lower and side edges together. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn pieces. Baste edges, press. Work crosswise buttonholes on left half of plastron from marking. Gear size of buttonholes to fi t your buttons. Pin left plastron piece to right plastron piece, matching centers. Baste lower edges together.
STEP 6: STITCH FRONT PLASTRON Trim allowance of front along curve of plastron to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten. Use basting thread to transfer seam line to right side of fabric. Pin plastron to front with wrong side facing right side and matching centers. Baste outer edge (seam number 1) and stitch close to edge.
STEP 7: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back.
STEP 8: CONSTRUCT STAND COLLAR Press allowance at lower edge of non-interfaced collar piece to inside. Pin collar pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, clip curves. Turn collar. Baste edges, press.
STEP 9: STITCH ON STAND COLLAR Pin interfaced collar piece right sides together with edge of neckline (seam number 5), matching markings with shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, clip curves and press onto collar. Baste inside collar piece along joining seam. Topstitch stand collar closely round edges, catching inside edge. Work a crosswise buttonhole on left edge of collar.
STEP 10: SLEEVE VENT Slash lower sleeve edge on marked line and clip 5 mm (3/16") at an angle at end as illustrated. Press cut edge narrowly to inside, turn in and stitch.
STEP 11: SLEEVE PLACKET Fold the placket piece in half, right side facing in. Stitch pointed end from crosswise line as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Clip interfaced half of placket close to last stitch (arrow). Turn placket. Press edges. Press allowance at edge of non-interfaced half of placket to inside.
STEP 12: STITCH ON PLACKET Pin interfaced edge of placket to open edge of sleeve vent and stitch. Clip seam allowance of sleeve close to last stitch (arrow). Press seam allowances onto placket. Baste non-interfaced half of placket along joining seam. Press placket. Work from right side of sleeve to topstitch placket close to joining seam, catching inside edge. Topstitch close to other edge of placket as far as crosswise line.
STEP 13: STITCH POINTED END OF PLACKET Baste pointed end of placket to sleeve from marked crosswise stitching line, stitch close to edge and on crosswise line. Work buttonhole lengthwise from marking. Lay pleats at lower sleeve edge in arrow direction, baste.
STEP 14: STITCH ON SLEEVE Pin sleeve right sides together with edge of armhole, matching markings 3 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Stitch sleeve. Trim allowances to 1 cm (3/8"), neaten together and press onto front and back. Topstitch sleeve inset seam 7 mm (1/4") wide, catching allowances.
STEP 15: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS Lay fronts right sides together with with back, fold sleeves lengthwise. Pin sleeve seams and side seams (seam number 4), matching sleeve inset seams. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.
STEP 16: CUFFS Fold cuff piece in half lengthwise, right side facing out, press. Unfold cuff again and pin right sides together with lower sleeve edge, stitch. Press seam allowances onto cuff. Press allowance at other long edge of cuff to inside.
STEP 17: CUFFS Fold cuff on pressed crease, right side facing in. Stitch across ends. Trim seam allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn cuff to inside on pressed crease, baste at joining seam. Press. Work from right fabric side of sleeve to topstitch cuff closely round all edges, catching inside half at joining seam. Work a buttonhole crosswise at front edge of each cuff.
STEP 18: STITCH HEM/SEW ON BUTTONHOLES Press hem allowance to inside, turn in and baste. Stitch a narrow hem. Sew on buttons.
FINISHED! This deep blue linen shirt with its plastron and mother of pearl buttons is all about relaxed comfort. The sleeves are finished with a meticulous cuff hem that leaves enough width so that they can also be casually rolled.
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