Sewing Lesson: #116 Asymmetrical Gathered Top (Plus Size) 09/2019

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Sewing Lesson: #116 Asymmetrical Gathered Top (Plus Size) 09/2019
By Burdastyle September 1, 2019 No comments
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below).
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 FABRIC Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 1
STEP 1: PIN THE PIECES TO THE FABRIC Spread the fabric on your working surface with right facing up. Important: Mark all pieces on the fabric first before cutting out. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Attention: Pieces shown with a broken outline on the pattern layout should be placed face down on the fabric. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances and 3 cm (11/4") hem allowance on the fabric at the edges of the paper pattern pieces.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 2
STEP 2: MARK PIECES CUT TO MEASURE / CUT OUT THE PIECES Finally, use a hand gauge and chalk to mark the pieces cut to measure (a, b, c) directly on the fabric. Cut out all the pieces.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 3
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark hem lines and centre front on the right fabric side.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 4
STEP 4: THE INTERFACING Lay interfacing adhesive side facing up on your working surface. Pin fabric pieces b (cuffs) together with wrong sides facing. Fold piece 7 in half. Pin pieces to interfacing and cut out as illustrated with 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance. Iron interfacing on wrong side of fabric pieces (just to fold line on piece 7).
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 5
STEP 5: TIPS ON WORKING WITH JERSEY If you are working with a fine knit, use a needle especially designed for stretch fabric or jersey. The ball-point tip will not damage the fabric. Stitch seams at a shallow zigzag setting to keep them stretchy. Use a twin machine needle to stitch hems (see also step 10). Neaten allowance with overlock stitching or with zigzag stitching.
>Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 6
STEP 6: DARTS Pin bust darts on front and stitch toward points of darts. Knot threads. Press darts down. Stitch darts on back and on lower back piece. Press darts toward centre back.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 7
STEP 7: CROSSWISE SEAMS Lay lower front pieces right sides together with respective front pieces. Pin seams (seam numbers 1 and 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press down. Stitch lower back to back piece likewise (seam number 3).
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 8
STEP 8: TAB (OUTSIDE) Fold tab in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn tab and press. Baste open end of tab right sides together with left front between markings.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 9
STEP 9: SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 4). Pin side seams (seam number 5), matching markings. Stitch seams, catching in tab. Neaten allowances and press open.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 10
STEP 10: HEM Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Attach the twin needle to your sewing machine. Use two spools of thread to thread the needle. Use the twin needle and work from right side of garment to topstitch edge 2.5 cm (1") wide. You are stitching with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitching.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 11
STEP 11: FRONT EDGES Neaten allowance at front edges with zigzag or overlock stitching. Press allowance at edges, on the right below curve of casing, to inside. Use the twin needle to topstitch edges 1 cm (3/8") wide, catching allowance.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 12
STEP 12: NECKLINE Trim allowance at edge of neckline to 1 cm (3/8"). Fold facing strip (a) in half lengthwise with wrong side in and press. Pin strip along edge of neckline so that open edges lie on allowance. Stitch facing strip 1 cm (3/8") wide. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn facing strip to inside, baste. Press edge. Topstitch edge of neckline 7 mm (1/4") wide, catching facing strip.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 13
STEP 13: SLEEVES Clip allowance at markings on lower sleeve edge. Press allowance to inside between markings and turn half in. Pin and stitch allowance close to edge as illustrated. Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch sleeve seams (seam number 6). Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 14
STEP 14: CUFFS Fold cuffs (b) lengthwise with wrong side facing in, press. Lay cuffs out fl at again. Press one long edge of each cuff 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to inside. Fold cuff on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch narrow edges together. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn cuffs and press.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 15
STEP 15: STITCH ON CUFFS Stitch a line of machine basting to each side of seam line to gather lower sleeve edge. Pull bobbin threads to gather edge to fi t edge of cuff. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly. Stitch cuff right sides together with lower sleeve edge. Press allowances onto cuff. Lay inside cuff edge over joining seam, pin and stitch close to edge. Attach three top halves of snaps evenly spaced on left front edge of cuff. Attach bottom halves of snaps on other edge.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 16
STEP 16: SETTING IN SLEEVES Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. Match sleeve seams and side seams and also markings 7 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste sleeves, easing sleeve cap slightly between the •. Stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 17
STEP 17: D-RING Neaten allowance along curved edge of right front and turn to inside. Stretch allowance to fi t edge and baste. Topstitch edge 1 cm (3/8") wide for casing. Slip D-ring into casing. Lay outer tab from inside over D-ring. Attach top halves of snaps on one end of tab as marked. Attach bottom halves of snaps on other end to match.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 Step 18
STEP 18: INSIDE TAB / FASTENER Press long edge of tab ( c ) in toward centre and press in half lengthwise. Stitch edges together. Neaten ends. Stitch one end of tab to seam allowances of right side seam over crosswise seam. Sew the top half of the sew-on snap at other end. Sew bottom half of snap on left front edge as marked.
Sewing Lesson Plus Tunic 092019 FINISHED
FINISHED! The asymmetric gather lends an extravagant drape to this striped jersey shirt with a deep neckline that adds a sexy touch.
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