Which interfacing for which fabric?
Generally there is a difference between fusible (iron-on) interfacing and sewn interfacing, and both are available in various degrees of thickness. Fusible interfacing is the easiest and quickest to work with because it’s ironed-on and there’s no need for basting and stitching. That is why we almost always include fusible interfacing in our sewing instructions which also tell you what number is suitable for the style being made, e.g. Vilene/Pellon H 200, G 405, H 410, etc. Of course, you do not have to follow our instructions exactly if you have not used the originals fabric we mention. Select your interfacing depending on the ironing or fabric-care instructions given with your particular fabric.
Cutting out Vilene/Pellon:
The parts that are to be interfaced are shaded on Burda cutting-out pattern pieces or described in the sewing instructions. All Vilene/Pellon interfacing is firm longwise and slightly stretchy crosswise; therefore always cut it out so that the grain line on the pattern piece runs parallel to its longwise edge. This is particularly important for Vilene/Pellon H 410, the new, super-soft fusible interfacing with longwise strengthening threads included. The only exceptions is when a cross or bias/diagonal cut is to have a positive influence on the fluid fall of the fabric, e.g. cut the interfacing on the slant for the hem allowance on a notched collar. Always cut out interfacing with seam allowances.
Ironing on Vilene/Pellon:
Before ironing on Vilene/Pellon, make sure your fabric will not crumple or shrink, i.e. iron it first, if possible with a damp cloth? or wash the fabric as you normally would before cutting out. Always iron Vilene/Pellon on the wrong side of the fabric. The interfacing should never extend beyond the size of the fabric piece because the adhesive layer would not only stick to the underside of the iron and prevent smooth ironing but could also later stick to the right side of the fabric (which is extremely difficult to remove). If only part of the fabric piece is to be interfaced, you can prevent a visible line showing through to the right side by fraying out the interfacing edge. To ensure that the interfacing will remain permanently in place, you should follow the instructions precisely as far as the ironing (fixing) temperature and timing are concerned. The information for the various interfacing types is given in the above table as well as on the blue printed edges of Vilene/Pellon. If an interfacing has to be steamed on (ironed damp), e.g. Vilene/Pellon H 410 or G 405, always do so with a normal iron over a damp cloth so that the adhesive can slightly dissolve and evenly bind with the garment fabric. The dry patches on the ironing cloth will also indicate whether you have pressed the whole interfacing surface. Using a steam iron is not suitable because the pressure and steaming are not equally distributed.
After ironing on Vilene/Pellon, leave the fabric flat for about 20 minutes to cool down. Check to see if there are any kinks because these cannot be completely ironed out later. When the fabric pieces have cooled down, place them together again, right sides inwards, pin the sewing pattern pieces in position and then transfer the cutting-out lines.
The ironing-on conditions can vary from fabric to fabric, so you should always do an ironing test with interfacing beforehand. That is the only way you can be absolutely sure that neither the interfacing adhesive nor the interfacing edge will show through to the right side of your garment fabric.
For small pattern pieces, like a facing or collar, first cut out the interfacing with generous seam allowances. Iron interfacing onto wrong side of the relevant piece of fabric, then pin on the paper pattern piece and cut out the pattern piece with the required seam allowances, before transferring the whole pattern piece.
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