Sewing a Built-In Bra with Cups
Added Jun 13, 2012
Brooklyn, New Yo...
For the shoulder straps, I used sturdy, 1-inch-wide elastic. I simply cut the elastic to the same length of the bra/tank straps, and secured the elastic to the top edges of the cups with a zigzag stitch.
Next, sew the bra and tank top pieces together. Right sides facing, sew your front and back bodice pieces together, and your front and back bra pieces together. At this point, it’s a good idea to slip on the bra to see if it feels like it will fit snuggly (keeping in mind that you’re still going to attach an elastic band around the bottom). If the bra is not snug enough, take it in on the sides. HOWEVER, don’t tighten the top edge of the bra; the top edge of the bra and the top edge of the tank top need to be the exact same size in order to avoid creating ripples once they are sewn together.
For the elastic band at the bottom of the bra, wrap the elastic around your ribcage, just below your breasts, stretching it slightly, so that it feels snug but comfortable. Cut the elastic to this length. Butt the ends of the elastic and use a zigzag stitch to secure them. Divide the elastic into fourths and mark with pins. Divide the bottom of the bra into fourths and mark with pins. Pin the right side of the elastic band to the wrong side of the bottom edge of the bra (at the four pin marks). Using a stretch stitch or zigzag, sew the bottom edge of the elastic band to the bottom edge of the bra, stretching the elastic between the four marks. Fold the top edge of the elastic to the right side of the bra, so the elastic band lays flat. If the band doesn’t lay flat, use a hot iron to press the fold where the band and bra meet. Sew the top edge of the elastic band to the bra.