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Your stitches should be ¼” – 3/8” in length, with the same length of dead space between the stitches. Because I am very bad at eyeballing this type of thing, I’ve devised an Eraserhead-style technique to help myself out. Using the ruler, place pins spaced ¼” apart. Then give an alternating straight hand stitch.

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Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//techniques/saddle-stitch-on-classic-suit-lapel/technique_steps/2