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Here I need to add 4 inches. If you are not aware, you only add half the total amount needed since this is cut on the fold. This pattern, the cowl tank from Simplicity 2345, has a self facing on the cowl. Its basically the front pattern flipped up and mirrored that you just fold over. It comes down below the bust and solves the problem of having to finish the front neck seam. Kinda awesome, actually. So, I cut the self facing off and started with a y-bust dart.

So here you see the three lines for cutting the the darts, arrows in the directions you cut. The yellow one we don't cut yet, but you want to mark it now. Remember to cut to the seam allowance, then snip from the seam allowance in. That way you have a tiny hinge.


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