Added Jul 24, 2010
The best combination for a perfect equation is a fabric that doesn't wrinkle and pleats that keep their shape. For fabric I prefer cotton mix - natural fibers for comfort and synthetic ones for shape. The first step is to make pleats using whatever method works for you, see these techniques for a quick reference http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/make-box-and-inverted-box-pleats, http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/how-to-make-a-pleater-board.
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She modified this coat wonderfully by adding length and changing the pockets and collar
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