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Cut the excess allowance along the stitch, I used overlock to finish the edges, fold to the main part and topstitch. I like pushing the bit at the hem up a little, so you cannot see it from the right side, even though it looks a bit funny on the inside ( don't forget all this business in happening on the inner fold of the pleat- so it is very unlikely to show

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Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//techniques/pleat-me-to-the-moon-perfect-pleats-tutorial/technique_steps/4