How to shorten or lengthen a pattern
Added Oct 4, 2012
New York, New Yo...
If your height is 160 cm, 168 cm or 176 cm (5 ft. 3 ins, 5 ft. 6 ins or 5 ft. 9 ins) and your individual length measurements correspond to those given in the respective Burda size chart on page 4 (for tall sizes, see page 11), you can adjust the pattern pieces at the adjustment lines by the number of millimetres given in the illustrations above.
If you are shorter or taller than the given height or if your length measurements differ from those in the size charts, you will have to calculate the difference yourself. The general rule for bodices or tops is: Add or subtract 1/3 of the difference half way up the armhole and add or subtract 2/3 of the difference between lower armhole edge and waist.
Lengthen or shorten trousers by 1 cm (3/8 in) at the upper horizontal line. The trouser leg length is lengthened or shortened by 1/2 the difference each above and below the knee.
The illustrations above show where to mark the alteration lines (dashed lines). Important: The lines must always be marked at a right angle to the fabric grain, otherwise the pattern pieces will be off balance.
To match the sleeve to the armhole, the sleeve cap must also be altered accordingly. Sleeves with shallow sleeve caps are taken in or widened at the seams and the difference is tapered toward the lower edge.