Burda Style For people who sew

I have recently undertaken the making of a delightful cropped jacket using a 1950's vintage pattern. Unfortunately, when it came to sewing gussets for the sleeves, the brevity of the instructions left me feeling somewhat frustrated. I decided to persevere with the task, and share the steps I took to reach the successful making of the sleeve gussets. For those who may not be familiar with the gusset, it is a piece of fabric (in this case, kite-shaped) inserted where you find the armpit, to give the wearer a bit of room to move. The gusset should be subtle - that is, not bulging out so that it's visible or obvious to the eye. This is intended as a "sew-along" for anyone who already has their gusset pieces cut and ready to sew into the jacket or blouse.

Technique Materials

kite shaped gusset pattern pieces, remaining jacket, sewing machine, pins, scissors, needle and thread, iron, tailor's ham or bath towel

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7 Comments

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  Dec 22, 2010, 01.13 PMby ruthw

  Your gussets look beautiful!

  Do you think it might also be a good idea to run a line of stitching around the gusset opening stitching line on the jacket body and sleeve so as to reinforce it, and then snip into the corners before attaching the gusset stage by stage as you suggest? That’s the way you usually attach pieces of cloth to angular openings, as in sleeve and neckline plackets. That way it could be a lot easier to match up those circles exactly without so much pulling and tugging.

  In my experience that exactness is essential if you don’t want wavy seams, funny pulls and distortions around inserted pieces (the same exact matching is necessary for inserting triangular gores in flared skirts, as I have learned through experience – never sew past that circle!).

  1 Reply

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    Jan 21, 2011, 09.38 AMby olystyrene

    Thank you! And thanks for the great tip too! I’ll definitely try your method the next time I construct a garment with a gusset!

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  Dec 6, 2010, 11.28 PMby lila-1

  I always have a problem with my sleeves – I can barely move in them! saw your tutorial and tried it on a new blouse im making and WOW! What a difference! Thanks so much for sharing this :) It was really easy to do and soooo helpful :)

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    Dec 6, 2010, 11.35 PMby olystyrene

    That’s fantastic! I’m so glad to hear that! :D

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  Nov 28, 2010, 07.44 PMby hollyrnstudent

  Thanks for the article, I am going to try this in a couple shirts where the biceps are a pinch too tight. Also, I can try my new 2 dollar garage sale ham. Great technique. Holly

  1 Reply

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    Nov 28, 2010, 10.14 PMby olystyrene

    Good luck – I’d love any feedback re: whether the instructions made sense ;)

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  Nov 26, 2010, 10.55 PMby loyl8

  thank you for sharing I have been reading about gussets in my vogue sewing book but it really doesnt tell me how to so thanks a ton. A gusset is also a piece that goes in pants (leggings, work out pants, etc) and also underwear. For the armpit it also is suppose to protect your clothes and be more comfortable. Its considered a couture technique also. good job

  2 Replies

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    Nov 27, 2010, 08.36 AMby olystyrene

    Thank you – I do hope this helps! I have indeed seen a gusset in pants before – in men’s pants, actually. The interesting thing was that I believe the gusset was in place in the crotch area to allow for greater movement during skateboarding. So practical!

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    Nov 27, 2010, 10.01 AMby loyl8

    ohh very cool!! good to know!! can’t wait to see the final project

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  Nov 24, 2010, 02.55 PMby Gail Thompson

  Love, love, love those close fitting styles of the 40’s and 50’s!!! Who can move while wearing them without a gusset? Very much appreciated!

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    Nov 25, 2010, 02.11 AMby olystyrene

    I am so with you on that one! Hope the tute comes in handy one day!

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  Nov 23, 2010, 10.28 PMby olystyrene

  You’re welcome! I hope this is a bit more helpful than the bare instructions that came with my pattern!
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  Nov 23, 2010, 02.30 PMby sewella

  Thanks for sharing! I will save this technique!