Burda Style For people who sew

The Hong Kong binding seam finish encloses the raw edges of the seams inside strips of bias. Both sides of the seam require two passes to sew the bias, and because it is so labor-intensive, it is mostly used in very high-end clothes. This method is especially suitable for heavy fabrics and for summer garments that you wouldn’t want to line.

Technique Materials

A nice, unlined garment that you would like to have beautifully finished seams, a matching (or contrasting) fabric of a lighter weight to cut the bias from OR store-bought bias tape.

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12 Comments Sign in to add a post

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  Apr 1, 2010, 12.26 AMby Passiona Cottee

  I think you just helped save my project. I have a heavey fabric and was umming and ahring about the lining and what to to about the thick seam allowances. By stating in your intro that these are suitable for heavy fabrics has really assisted me!
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  Apr 17, 2009, 09.57 PMby haileys

  I can’t wait to try!!
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  Aug 31, 2008, 10.36 AMby sewbird

  Thank you, I’m going to have to try this. Great tutorial!
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  Aug 29, 2008, 07.41 AMby patobb

  I always finish seams this way when I want a jacket unlined. But I use elastic bias tape (In my country it is a very sheer elastic tape that comes with a running stitch in the middle, that makes it easy to fold it exactly in the middle) without stretching it of course, but for curved seams it is perfect and very easy to sew.

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    Apr 1, 2010, 12.23 AMby Passiona Cottee

    I really appreciate you mentioning this. I have a heavy fabric, I am thinking of finishing with Hong Kong seams. It has curved seams and the tape you mention will be perfect for it!

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  Aug 28, 2008, 07.30 PMby live2exist

  Nice!! Very beautiful and clean I usually like using French Seam, but when the fabric is thicker I serge it. This looks like a lot of work, but worth trying. THANKS :)
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  Aug 27, 2008, 06.12 AMby hydeist

  Is it difficult to do this inside an already-made garment? Or would you suggest doing it to each piece before putting them all together?…
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  Aug 27, 2008, 05.03 AMby greentourmaline

  I always finish my seams. No matter how ill-fitting the final product may be, it is always sturdy and never unravels. I have tried to follow the instructions before for Hong Kong finishes on seams, but could never quite get it right. This picture tutorial is perfect! NOW I get it!
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  Aug 26, 2008, 09.02 PMby gedwoods

  I tried this with store-bought bias tape, and the tape “crumpled up” when sewn on, leaving a very uneven, though not uninteresting finish. Yours is so clean and flat, I’m not sure why mine wouldn’t stay flat, even when pressed.
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  Aug 25, 2008, 11.11 PMby kuutydruk

  But how do i do it with curved seams? Same way? I don’t need to cut any slips somewhere? I’ve seen this on Mirela’s work and her stuff look so fabulous! :)
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  Aug 24, 2008, 06.17 PMby curlyxrt

  Thanks – I’ve seen these seams before, and now I know how to do them! Very beautiful tutorial, too.
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  Aug 22, 2008, 11.55 PMby nenasew

  Oh, I think I can do this. It is labor intensive but it looks so nice.
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  Aug 22, 2008, 03.55 PMby dianacirne

  That’s so nice! I never now what is a Hong Kong finish! Thank you for both how to!