Burda Style For people who sew

To grade a pattern means to manipulate an existing pattern at various points in order to make it fit a smaller or larger size. This How To shows the technique used for making a bodice pattern larger. The technique illustrated here can be used when making any pattern larger.

Technique Materials

pattern, paper, ruler, pencil

• Intro
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• 11

• Add to my toolkit
• Print Page
• Get Instructions (PDF, 3.3 MB)

18 Comments

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  Nov 6, 2009, 07.48 PMby BlingGirl

  I know this is prob obvious, but do I need to add the seam allowance back onto the pattern at the end? In step one it says to remove the seam allowance before grading, so to me that would mean that I need to add it back to the pattern after grading as the very last step?
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  Nov 3, 2009, 05.27 PMby laneandme

  Ok slide 3 HAS to be incorrect. It states: “To calculate how much the allocated grade will be, you must divide the overall grade (3 inches in this example) by four. Why four, you ask? This is to ensure the overall grade is evenly distributed among the four parts of the pattern/body, the left front, the left back, the right front, and the right back. Then, to distribute the allocated grade with each of the lines illustrated in step 1, you must use the formula written below. A-B= ¼ of allocated grade = 3/4” (1 cm) C-D= ¼ of allocated grade = 3/4” (1 cm) E-F= ½ of allocated grade = 1 ½” (2 cm) G-H= ¼ of allocated grade = 3/4” (1 cm) I-J= ¼ of allocated grade = 3/4” (1 cm)”

  However, for this example we were adding 3 inches to the overall pattern. So the overall grade (3 inches) divided by the number of pattern pieces = .75 or 3/4 of an inch allocated PER PATTERN PIECE. THEN that 3/4 of an inch is allocated crosswise over each piece. So then AB= 1/4 of the allocated grade or 3/16 in, CD =1/4 allocated grade or 3/16 in and EF =1/2 allocated grade or 3/8 right? Then GH and IJ would be 1.5 each. Top to bottom you must add the 3 inches to each piece but when going around the body the three inches would have to be distributed between each of the pattern pieces. Right ..otherwise by the example provided you would have added a whopping 12 inches to the circumference of the pattern. The original example formula in these directions adds the TOTAL grade to EACH piece instead of the ALLOCATED grade to each piece. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
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  Oct 9, 2009, 02.38 PMby Almatinka

  This is going to take time to figure out, but I am sure it will help a bunch!!! Thank you!!!
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  Apr 28, 2009, 10.31 AMby JHelen

  This is great info, but I am very small. Do you have any tips for grading a bodice pattern smaller?
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  Feb 16, 2009, 01.07 PMby esmode

  plz try to clarify cuz its very difficult to be understood
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  Jun 24, 2008, 11.54 AMby cloud9

  Please Post pattern grading a sleeve to make larger /longer! Have a vintage pattern that want to resize up.
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  May 12, 2008, 09.11 AMby a356029444

  Your schematics don’t show where in the pattern the grading lines are placed. For example, does the line AH go from the centre of the neckline and parallel to the waist?
  Similarly where are GH, EF, and CD located?
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  May 6, 2008, 01.09 AMby rito

  does any know how to grade a basic bodice with shoulder and waist dart via the x y coordinate methods?
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  Mar 19, 2008, 03.27 PMby cassidyscowgirl

  I’m working on the Danielle dress grading it up a couple of sizes. I don’t see the lines that you are talking about on the pattern pieces. Where would you find the measurements to to put them on the pattern? Hope that makes sense.
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  Feb 21, 2008, 12.37 PMby admin

  do you have a pattern grading example for women’s panties?
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  Dec 21, 2007, 12.36 PMby admin

  Ihad a lot of trouble printing out the pages I finally had to copy/tansfer the pages t0 Windows and print them. Each time I tried to print a page on the web site, it would give me the leftborder of Zwinky as one page, the two pages of comments in addition to the pattern page.
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  Dec 14, 2007, 12.25 AMby MarmotaB

  Thank you! I hope I’ll understand it when really trying it… that’s the best proof of understanding. :-)
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  Dec 12, 2007, 07.17 PMby katrena

  the gap at the bottom of the bodice is a dart correct?
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  Dec 12, 2007, 07.14 PMby katrena

  i wonder could i use this with burda pattern 8043?
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  Dec 12, 2007, 07.05 PMby katrena

  i really like this how to* this will be a challenge for me because i get a little nervous when trying to do projects like this*
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  Dec 12, 2007, 02.10 PMby nayantara

  Yes you can use this on all pattern pieces, even if they are split up (if there is a yoke, bust, under bust piece).
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  Dec 8, 2007, 04.12 PMby staticstasy

  Can this be used on specific parts of the garment (on the bust for example) if it doesn’t match with the other measurements of a specific size?
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  Dec 7, 2007, 09.19 PMby zahra

  BURDASTYLE !!! I LOVEEEEEEEEEEE U FOR THIS!!