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Place your pattern peice back over your tracing, lining up the neck edge and center front. Take the armhole section you cut off and place it so the shoulder edge lines up with where your actual shoulder slope is. Your pattern peices will not make a line, and there will be a gap of space above the dart if you moved the armhole up to accomodate square shoulders or shoulders witha prominent shoulder bone, for the gap, tape a small peice of tissue paper in there to fill in the space.

If you moved the peice down to accomodate shoulders with a greater slope, there will not be a space above the dart.


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