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Head over to your iron and press the seam allowance up along the stitching line, making sure that the line of stitching rolls to the top with the seam allowance. This will ensure that the line of stitching won’t show on the underside of your garments. Let me also explain why we have stitched and pressed along that stitching line rather than just measuring up 3/8” and pressing. Generally speaking you are going to get a much more even seam allowance with this stitched line than pressing the seam allowance up with a ruler and it will also be at least twice as fast. The other advantage is that if you are doing curves, the fabric will naturally want to turn up along the stitching line creating a smooth curve whereas without it you will generally have small points where the fabric wanted to press straight because of the grain and excess fabric. Also after you get the hang of it you can eliminate this step and just roll the fabric over at your machine while you sew.


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