Burda Style For people who sew

These instructions lead to a dartless block for a loose-fitting women's overgarment (for example, a tunic) in a non-stretch fabric. I shall follow these instructions up with detailed instructions for making a tunic (actually, an Indian kameez) in the Projects section, but the block can be used in many different ways and this just illustrates one use of the block. Indeed, under a slight variation the block can also be used to make a jacket (I shall indicate what changes need to be made to support that use). This block is particularly easy to draft as there are no calculations regarding darts or bust size to make. Note that this block, like many of the others, is heavily inspired by the blocks published by Winifred Aldrich (see Winifred Aldrich, "Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear", 5e ed., Blackwell Publishing: Oxford, 2008, 215 pp.), although I make a point to embellish my instructions with additional points I have discovered through experience, and also provide equivalent Imperial measurements to complement the metric ones.

Technique Materials

As for all the drafting instructions I've posted, you will need a meterstick (or a yardstick), preferably transparent, a shorter straight edge, a French curve (or, if you don't have one, use a dinner plate and slide it to produce non circular curves), a right angle square is useful but not absolutely necessary, a pencil, and several large sheets of paper such as newsprint.

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11 Comments

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  May 12, 2012, 01.33 PMby high-tic

  Thanks for block , in steps 2,4,5,6,7,10,21

  you can estimate it from the standard sizes by selecting one of the following values : XS : 57,1 cm (22&3/8"), S : 57,8 cm (22&5/8"), M : 58,5 cm (22&7/8"), L : 59,2 cm (23&1/8"), XL : 59,9 cm (23&3/8"), XXL : 60,6 cm (23&5/8"), XXXL : 61,3 cm (23&7/8").

  What is the relation between that mesurments& the mesurments in size chart , i need an explination in that point
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  Apr 18, 2012, 04.33 PMby Jelena Habulan

  Thank you Thank you this is exactly what I was looking for!!!!
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  Feb 15, 2011, 08.24 AMby APassion4Fashion

  Thanks a million for your detailed tutorials on drafting patterns. I sooo do appreciate how you include both the metric and Imperial measurements in your tutorials. It’s also mighty awesome of you to include the standard sizes ( measurements) those of us who might want to use them or just refer to them for comparison reasons. I had been looking for industry standard measurements like the ones you provide in your tutes. The ones I did find left something to be desired. You are really one of the best that Burda has to offer when it comes to instructing us on pattern drafting - a five star instructor, indeed!!! All I can say is, keep up the wonderful work you are doing here. We are really benefitting from it.
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  Feb 15, 2011, 08.24 AMby APassion4Fashion

  Thanks a million for your detailed tutorials on drafting patterns. I sooo do appreciate how you include both the metric and Imperial measurements in your tutorials. It’s also mighty awesome of you to include the standard sizes ( measurements) for those of us who might want to use them or just refer to them for comparison reasons. I had been looking for industry standard measurements like the ones you provide in your tutes. The ones I did find left something to be desired. You are really one of the best that Burda has to offer when it comes to instructing us on pattern drafting - a five star instructor, indeed!!! All I can say is, keep up the wonderful work you are doing here. We are really benefitting from it.
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  Jan 20, 2011, 07.34 AMby Kelsey Edwards

  hey i was wondering if this block would be suitable to make a loose fitting top made of a light weight jersey similar to the one in the blog ‘Harem Pants and Jersey Looks: 5 New Patterns’ by alison dahl, the picture of the girl with the glasses and camera and long necklace? i have been looking for a pattern but can not find one that i like, and am just new to pattern making so any advice would be great. by the way i have created several of your other blocks and the steps are very easy to follow, good job! x

  2 Replies

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    Jan 21, 2011, 12.51 AMby gedwoods

    The block could certainly be used with a light weight jersey, as is, for a loose-fitting top. I tend to want to tighten things up a bit with stretch, but you could do some great things with the fit as indicated!

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    Jan 21, 2011, 03.28 AMby Kelsey Edwards

    thanks for your help! i will let you know how it turns out but it could be a while as i have a lot of projets and a lack of funds lol (:

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  Jan 9, 2011, 12.30 PMby lousin

  je vous remercie infiniment je suis débutante et jusque là je cherche la base pour la coupe c’est trés enourageant et trés bien expliqué merci beaucoup
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  Aug 30, 2010, 12.48 PMby 1sewingprincess

  thank you so much for this. It’s exactly what I was looking for.
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  Jul 1, 2010, 09.24 PMby gedwoods

  To both rubyMas and magdamagda, I did take note of the objection but it took me some time to untangle the issue. The instructions for step 9 are now corrected – the distance between points A and L needed to be one quarter the distance from A to J, not one half.

  1 Reply

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    Jul 2, 2010, 06.36 AMby magdamagda

    Great thank you gedwoods! and rubyMas good luck with your block!

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  Jul 1, 2010, 06.29 PMby rubymas

  I completely agreee with “magdamagda” the formula for step 9 is not correct. I am drafting this as I type and point “S” is much higher in the pics, which makes sense. Whereas, in the pattern created using the instructions it is very low creating a very steep shoulder line.

  Please revise this with correct information. Really need this pattern.

  Thanks in advance.
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  Jun 22, 2010, 08.36 AMby magdamagda

  i read your instructions and you might want to revise step 7 – “measure downwards from point C the distance of the WAIST-TO-HIP measurement and mark the point (point H)” – it should be “measure downwards from point F”; and step 9, measuring point L halfway between A and J lower by 0,25 cm -the L point looks placed a lot higher in the pics, is there another formula? thank you

  1 Reply

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    Jul 1, 2010, 06.31 PMby rubymas

    you are definately right about step 9. Do you have a solution?

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  Jun 4, 2010, 11.36 PMby naweldoigtdore

  thank you for sharing this beautiful, your explanations are very clear. you are generous. although I’m good at sewing but I find it very useful for beginners. naweldoigtdore