Drafting the Easy-Fitting OverGarment Block
Added May 16, 2010
These instructions lead to a dartless block for a loose-fitting women's overgarment (for example, a tunic) in a non-stretch fabric. I shall follow these instructions up with detailed instructions for making a tunic (actually, an Indian kameez) in the Projects section, but the block can be used in many different ways and this just illustrates one use of the block. Indeed, under a slight variation the block can also be used to make a jacket (I shall indicate what changes need to be made to support that use). This block is particularly easy to draft as there are no calculations regarding darts or bust size to make. Note that this block, like many of the others, is heavily inspired by the blocks published by Winifred Aldrich (see Winifred Aldrich, "Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear", 5e ed., Blackwell Publishing: Oxford, 2008, 215 pp.), although I make a point to embellish my instructions with additional points I have discovered through experience, and also provide equivalent Imperial measurements to complement the metric ones.
As for all the drafting instructions I've posted, you will need a meterstick (or a yardstick), preferably transparent, a shorter straight edge, a French curve (or, if you don't have one, use a dinner plate and slide it to produce non circular curves), a right angle square is useful but not absolutely necessary, a pencil, and several large sheets of paper such as newsprint.