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In addition to switching the vertical darts for a horizontal one, we have also drawn a circular shape (hemisphere) through the lower piece and cut along this line. The circular section begins 1 cm (2/5") forward of the top of the forward front seam.

This is a design choice - from the basic bra pattern shown in the previous step, several possible variations in bra design are possible. In this example, we are developing a design that gives a fair amount of support to the breast without, however, using an underwire.

Note that this results in four pieces - the back strap, the lower cup, the upper cup and the frontspiece.

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Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//techniques/developing-a-simple-bra-pattern-from-basic-bodice-block/technique_steps/8