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The next step is the result of another design choice, and could be done differently. The pattern produced by the previous step could have been finalized per se. In this step, we improve the support offered the breast by raising the lower cup slightly. The increase may range from about 0.5 to 1.5 cm, depending on the amount of additional support desired. I have chose to raise the cup by 0.5 cm - the new shape of the lower cup is shown drawn in.

The upper cup must be reduced by a similar amount, resulting in the curved lower edge shown drawn in. In addition, however, by adding curvature to the upper seam of the lower section and reducing the curvature of the lower seam of the upper section, we have an unbalanced seam length. To correct for this, the upper section is cut along the dart direction and spread to reintroduce the necessary width.

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    Sep 13, 2011, 08.42 PMby skaates

    This changing of curvature is an interesting step, one which I am having difficulty interpreting for my design which has a vertical seam (darts) across the bust point as in step 7 of this tutorial. All I can come up with is to increase the underbust dart width by 0.5 – 1 cm to increase support. Will this do the trick and do you have any other ideas for achieving this effect? Perhaps I could add a a side dart and manipulate the curvature in a similar way.

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http://burdastyle.com//techniques/developing-a-simple-bra-pattern-from-basic-bodice-block/technique_steps/10