Constructing the Basic Bodice Block
Added Feb 22, 2009
Draw in darts around each of the three dashed lines that extend from the lower boundary of the block (line E to AB) to the line B to C. The width of these lines are determined as follows. The standard is to introduce 18 cm (7") of waist shaping, unless this would reduce the waist below the WAIST measurement plus 6 cm (2-3/8") of ease. In the latter case, the waist darts should be scaled appropriately. When the full 18 cm (7") is used, the three darts should be 2.5 cm (1") wide for the back dart, 3 cm (1-1/8") wide in the middle dart and 3.5 cm (1-3/8") wide for the front dart - however, the middle dart should be subdivided into 1 cm (3/8") for the backward section and 2 cm (3/4") for the forward section.
The bodice block developed so far contains 9 cm (3-1/2") of ease around the bust. The amount to be removed through waist darts is therefore the BUST measurement plus 3 cm (1-1/8") minus the WAIST measurement (the 3 cm (1-1/8") addition is the result of 9 cm (3-1/2") of bust ease minus 6 cm (2-3/8") of waist ease). When this measurement is less than 18 cm (7"), the waist darts should be scaled downwards as appropriate.