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Now we repeat the pivoting measurement we did in Step 11 for the back shoulder. Using the SHOULDER measurement, fix the ruler zero at the point W and pivot the ruler until it crosses the construction line drawn in the previous step at the distance of the SHOULDER measurement, and mark this intersection (point X).

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  • Missing

    Nov 13, 2010, 03.14 AMby ej822

    First, thank you for the tutorial. However, I’m having a problem and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong, so I’m hoping you can help. When I get to the step to locate X, it is to the right of the line up from T. I have a very large bust and I’m wondering if this is the problem. The measurements I am using are (in inches): bust 51, waist 41, neck 16, shoulder 6.5, nape to waist 17, waist to hip 8, chest 21, back width 16, amrscye 19, bust dart 4-5/8. Hopefully you can just point me to the calculation I’m messing up. I’ve rechecked my calculation for T and get the same thing each time. I can’t figure out where I’m going wrong. Thanks!

    2 Replies
    • Imag0223_large

      Mar 26, 2012, 02.34 AMby pinkdaffodils

      Hi, I’m having a similar problem with my block. I’m a 42 bust, 17.5 loose (necklace line) neck, 4 shoulder, nape to waist 18.5, chest 16, back width 15, armscye 9, bust dart 3.5 and my front shoulder line WX falls outside of T, I’ve checked my work and even started over from scratch thinking I had made a mistake on something else but it keeps falling about 3/8 to the right of T. Did you ever figure out how to fix or adjust this?
      Cheers!

    • Missing

      Jun 12, 2013, 01.29 AMby Occultine

      Hi I got this problem too, with M being far too on the right of point “I” (resulting in a really low dart) and “X” being on the far right of “T”, right under point “W” !!

      The “solution” (kinda) I found is to continue drafting but when it came to drawing the armhole (sorry I’m French I don’t remember what it’s called) I estimated the position of both points “I” and “X” with my french curve…
      It gives me a rather round and small armhole but at least it is less weird and looks much more like the pattern here…
      But I will only see if those modifications/estimations are “viable” when I’ll make a muslin !

      Tell me if you found out another technique !

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